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want to do it right the first time
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Nov 27, 2001, 11:01 PM
Post #1 of 2 (1613 views)

Registered: Oct 25, 2001
Posts: 265

want to do it right the first time
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alright , i know your holding out on the sponsorships to see who will give you the best deal, so for now i know i will get the unbiased veiw. i want to purchase a big wall harness and gear sling(ask addiroids what my waist looked like after "NOT doing it a better way"), and i dont feel like buying it twice. you have a prescription? also you advise that an adjustable aider and daisy is a better way, any brand better than another? i did not not post this in the gear section because im not real interested in opinions other than dr.pitons on this particular question. thanks Dr.


Nov 27, 2001, 11:47 PM
Post #2 of 2 (1613 views)

Registered: Oct 9, 2001
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Len! Len Frankenstone, you are a genius!

I know.

Hoo boy, yes-sir-ee, the ol' job offers are stackin' up in my mailbox, gear arriving by courier every day, girls outside my door screaming for me to "play wall doctor" with them, it never ends, dude.

Ah, the price of fame.

Right, at the beginning of my "Post-Divorce Rennaissance" in 1995, I ended up doing three walls on El Cap in my free climbing harness and tight rock shoes. My kidneys were so sore I could barely move, and my toes hurt for a freakin' month! It was after my clusterfrig epic solo ascent of Zodiac that I met Chongo and realized that there simply had to be a better way.

When I climbed Zodiac I remember taking these big chunks of closed-cell foam from my carry mat and duct taping them round my harness waist belt! Things were not helped any when the homemade portaledge I was using on Zodiac busted!

I liked my Big Cushy Yates Big Wall Harness enough that I bought a second one. The only problem I've found with it is that the buckle is a bit difficult to fiddle-fart around with. The newer models have a better buckle with a wider hole on the side through which you double back the strap.

The key to a wall harness is to get a Big Cushy Mofo! I mean, any fool can be uncomfortable, eh?

The Yates Big Wall Harness has all sorts of cool gear loops, and has a hammer holster on both sides which is particularly useful for lefties like me.

Adjustable daisies are now essential. Yates makes one with a built-in Screamer which I have not seen, but there is a swell advert of I think it's Brian on Half Dome using it.

I had a pair of daisies with a steel buckle, but I tend to bounce test my pieces with great aggression and after a while the buckle started slipping.

I replaced them with I believe it was the Metolius ones. These do not have buckles but rather a very snazzy D-ring assembly for adjusting. To slide it out, you just stick your hand in and twist it just so, and it slides back out. Those ones are absolutely the shit and highly recommended by this Wall Rat.

You will also need a Kong-Bonatti adjustable fifi hook. It says to use 7mm but don't - use about 2 m of the slipperiest 6mm cord you can buy. Put a 3mm pull cord in the top. These things are all part of the system.

As for big wall aid racks, you will absolutely need a double bandolier with twin racks on either side.

The big wall rack is modified extensively with subracks and tethers, so if you want to know how to do this, then you will have to Ask Dr. Piton.

[ This Message was edited by: passthepitonspete on 2001-11-27 23:54 ]

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing


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