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larryclimb
Nov 29, 2001, 3:49 AM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2000
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You should always tie in throuth your harness with a figure 8 or double bowline (this is what I use) and a back up knot.
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saltspringer
Nov 29, 2001, 4:04 AM
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the figure 8 knot also takes up about 30% of the impact force of a fall when it tightens up, is easy on the rope (gentle curves) & is easy to read...all good reasons to use it over the bowline; locking biners through the belay loop on a harness can also be very uncomfortable for the climber on harnesses with a double tie-in system (loop connecting waist & legs)
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talons05
Nov 29, 2001, 5:20 AM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2001
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I worked in a store that had a small climbing wall. We used locking biners. This is a safe set up in a controlled environment. Outside, always use a figure eight.
AW
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dustinap
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Nov 29, 2001, 5:37 AM
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I always use a hook on my eight. The backup knot isn't really a backup knot.. ACTUALLY, my, "backup" knots normally come undown on the 3rd pitch of a climb. Really a backup huh? My hook hasn't failed me yet, and has saved me alot of trouble on those indoor climbs.
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passthepitonspete
Nov 29, 2001, 6:25 AM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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I've been solo climbing so much lately I don't remember the last time I tied into the end of the rope!
(When you rope solo, the ever-lengthening middle of the rope passes through your belay device...)
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awkward
Nov 29, 2001, 5:23 PM
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Registered: Nov 7, 2001
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a double-backed figure 8 has one point of failure (not likely with a 6" tail). A figure 8 with a locking biner has 2. End of story. Although gyms use the biners because, let's face it, not the entire public cares about knowing how to tie a figure 8, and if you fall in a gym there is usually a floor that you will survive falling on below you. Whoah... run-on sentence...
-Bryan
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wigglestick
Nov 29, 2001, 6:04 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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The part that concerns me the most is that the locking biner was clipped to the belay loop. Every harness manufacturer says this is a bad idea due to the possiblity of an upside down fall. When you tie in through the swami and the leg loops the rope will usually reorient you during a fall but there have been cases of people using the belay loop to tie in and falling upside down and coming out of their harness.
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climb512
Nov 29, 2001, 7:29 PM
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Registered: May 19, 2001
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why do it 2 different ways? you always tie into the harness outside, so tie in to it indoors as well. develop good habbits, not poor ones because you are in a "controlled enviornment".
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woodse
Nov 29, 2001, 7:34 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2001
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I say always tie in right to your harness...more equipment=more chance of mistake. However if you like the efficiency of other methods it's up to you....personally I'd just assume taking more precaution with my life!
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diarmid
Nov 30, 2001, 1:08 AM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
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Climb512 has a great point: why get started on bad habits in the gym? You practice like you play. Use the fig 8. Another good habit to get into (in my opinion) is to always thread the harness from the top down (i.e. - through the belt first, then the leg loops). Let's face it, you do something enough times you start going through the motions, and sometimes (rarely) you forget to follow through. I've seen an experianced climber tie in and miss one of the loops - we found out when he dropped off. In retrospect it was funny (d**n funny!) to see him hanging upside by his leg loops and flailing like a rooster, but it could have ended much differently. Like I said, it's rare, but that one time counts ...
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