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jhwnewengland
Jan 28, 2003, 3:59 AM
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I'm heading to these two areas for spring break (large group consensus) and I'm hoping to practice some aid. Anyone familiar with these areas or nearby areas? Will this be possible? Thanks, Jan
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jt512
Jan 28, 2003, 4:16 AM
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Jack's Canyon is a sport area. -Jay
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rogueclimber
Jan 28, 2003, 4:22 AM
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Yeah, There's plenty of aid climbing in Red Rocks Nevada. I think thats the 'Red Rocks' your talking about, there are a few of them out there.
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flamer
Jan 28, 2003, 4:33 AM
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Red rocks Isn't exactly the best place to "practice" aid climbing. Most of the aid lines have bad approach's and are pretty much big walls. I'm sure you could Practice on some of the shorter free routes...I would suggest some of the stuff in the ragged edges area. Check out the first part of the 5.10 directly left(south) of The climb Ragged edges...you can end it about 80ft up at a bolted anchor and it would be good "practice". Enjoy RR! josh
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jhwnewengland
Jan 28, 2003, 5:17 AM
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Yes, I am talking about Red Rocks, NV. Thanks for the info, flamer, aiding free routes was what I had in mind, just to get the systems down. I was hoping to get an idea of some good routes to do that on, such as Ragged Edges that you mentioned, and whether that would be acceptable. I guess Jack's wouldn't be good to aid, since it's sport, but maybe I cold find a (bolted) crack and aid it (not the bolts).
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flamer
Jan 28, 2003, 5:28 AM
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Hey there is nothing wrong with aiding on bolts to get your movements dialed in! Sport climbs can be just the trick! Also you can tie off the first couple of bolts to build your anchor, it's that simple! The climb Ragged edges itself would be Ok for aiding but only go to the mid point anchor or you'll need like 5 # 5 camalots! Even then you'll need alot of the same size cams. josh
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epic_ed
Jan 28, 2003, 8:11 AM
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On some of the over hung pitches at Jack's, you might be able to aid from bolt to bolt to get through the roof. The bolt spacing is tight enough of some of them to take a look. Drop a fixed line down from the top so you can bail if the spacing gets too far above the roof. The roof practice would be great, but expect to get some odd looks and maybe even some hassle. I was just talking this weekend to someone about Red Rocks. She's planning to aid some stuff for practice and think she has a few routes in mind. I'll see if I can get more info, or persuade her to post. Have fun on the roadie. Both crags should be a blast. Ed
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ambler
Jan 28, 2003, 1:25 PM
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If you plan to practice aid climbing on free routes, chose routes that are *not* popular. You're probably going to tie the climb up for hours, climbing slowly and worse than that line of people waiting for you to finish -- who wants to be that climber, or to see him/her above you when you hike out to do a classic free route like Ragged Edges? Depending on personalities, the reaction of onlookers could get unpleasant as well as embarassing. And when beginners ask for advice about which free routes to aid, I hope that more experienced climbers will keep the popularity factor in mind as well. Try to suggest somewhere out of the way, which will be a better experience for all concerned.
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jhwnewengland
Jan 28, 2003, 4:28 PM
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Believe me ambler, that I know. I'm not a beginner (just a beginner aid climber), and have had several occasions where I hiked up to a classic to find someone aiding it. I don't want to be that person. And I really don't want to aid on bolts. Although, I could see how aiding a bolt ladder on a roof could be challenging, especially if the bolt ladder was actually for free climbing.
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wonderbread
Jan 28, 2003, 11:08 PM
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Am I the only one that sees the silliness in travelling all the way from the East Coast to spend your time practice aiding in one of the best free climbing areas in the US? There are many better places to learn to aid that are MUCH closer to home for you. Don't waste your time at Red Rocks practice aiding unless you're going to do a wall there.
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flamer
Jan 28, 2003, 11:21 PM
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Um, I did not suggest ragged edges as the route to do! I suggested the route NEXT to it. And guess what! Climbing is first come first serve! If you want to tie up a route all day( as is so frequently done by guides) than tough cookies! That doesn't mean I agree with it, But if we start saying some one can't climb a route because they are moving to slow then what's next? You can't climb that route because you haven't led anything that hard before? As far as Sport'o's giving you $#!& for aiding "their" sport routes- screw'em! The only difference between hard aid and sport climbing is a bunch of protection bolts! josh
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vegastradguy
Jan 28, 2003, 11:22 PM
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if you're going to go aid climbing at Red Rocks, definitely stay away from popular areas. I can go digging for routes for you, if you like. I know there's some short aid climbs around, but most are big routes like Rainbow Wall (original route, seargent slaughter, etc...) which have NASTY approaches. PM me and I'll poke through my book if you like.
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jhwnewengland
Feb 8, 2003, 11:43 PM
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Thanks everyone, I'm all set. Just wanted some ideas and encouragement, which I got! Thanks again, Jan
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