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timpanogos
Jan 29, 2003, 12:51 AM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935
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Ok, please give up all your cleaning tips. For example:
1. What do you use for a hammer to give your nut tool a tap with (on clean aid)?
2. What about those micros that are as small or smaller than the width of your nut tool?
3. What about those deep reaching desert crack nuts – do you carry something longer/narrower than a normal nut tool?
4. If solo cleaning, do you leave your main rack at the anchor and carry a cleaning sling?
And a bit off the cleaning path – what is too small for a sandstone aid nut – body weight only?
I had a #3 HB Bronze that looked like a good placement – in that it had a full 100% contact of the top 2/3rds of the nut – both sides. Long story, but I could only waist/daisy bounce test it – felt/looked good – but as soon as I hopped on it, it popped.
Just a bad placement or is this just too small for the sandstone friction constant?
Thanks
Chad
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sprocket
Jan 29, 2003, 1:09 AM
Post #2 of 3
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Registered: Jan 13, 2003
Posts: 77
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When I aid, I use a biner to hammer the nutool.When I'm free I make sure to assess
the situation good before risking fixing a piece.A headlamp can help this.I have made tools to fix and fish nuts on cirtain routes.Coat hangers and shelving brackets.
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mountainmonkey
Jan 29, 2003, 5:25 PM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Jul 11, 2002
Posts: 474
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"1. What do you use for a hammer to give your nut tool a tap with (on clean aid)?"
- a big wall hammer - if you don't want to carry one you can use a designated biner or a hex
"2. What about those micros that are as small or smaller than the width of your nut tool?"
- you have to be careful not to ruin the wire by placing and tapping the nut tool where it won't damage the wire
"3. What about those deep reaching desert crack nuts – do you carry something longer/narrower than a normal nut tool?"
- try not to place the nut too deep. if you need it bomber, place it deep - otherwise place it shallow and think of it as a body weight piece.
"And a bit off the cleaning path – what is too small for a sandstone aid nut – body weight only?"
- the smallest I have seen (on C1+) is a #3BD steel nut but usually you can get by with larger pieces. the smallest offsets might not be very useful in soft sandstone. most of the placements I have seen have been worn away to accept a standard stopper or rock. [note: granite is different]
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