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hangdoggypound
Jan 29, 2003, 8:46 PM
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Well, there is still a ton of climbing near Queen Creek canyon aside from the bouldering areas. I think it would be kinda lame to not enter the contest but try to climb in the contest area.
You can just cruise over to the Mine Area, the Pond, Atlantis, Apache Leap, Lower Devils Canyon, Upper Devils Canyon, etc.
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w6jxm
Jan 29, 2003, 8:52 PM
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I will be there I was wanting to work as a volunter for the contest but I am in school for the week before that. It sucks I guess i'll just have to buy my PBC shirt now instead of getting it for free.
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climberchic
Jan 30, 2003, 5:47 PM
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Thanks for the congratulations all!
As far as the PBC goes, they're right. There is no climbing allowed in Euro Dog Valley during the comp. To tell you the truth though, the $60 to compete is really not bad. You get free meals, tons of cool schwag, a t-shirt, passes to the local rock gyms AND you get to climb. For those that absolutely do not want to compete, but want to climb, Queen Creek is a huge place. There are tons of places to climb that are not involved in the competition.
Another bonus? The cheap gear. Oh my goodness. Think every pair of shoes that 5.10 makes for $50 new (IF you can get to them before they all disappear) Think 50% or usually more off of retail on just about all the gear you can imagine. Smokin' deals on climbing holds as well.
Awesome bands, cheap gear, camping out with over 1,000 climbers from all over the world, and all the free cocktails you can drink (thanks FISH!!!).
Make sure to get there a few days early to secure prime camping spots or have someone set up a cheap tent for you to save you a space. And for the love of everything holy....STAY FOR THE PARTY! It is worth it. Trust me
~Erica
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climberchic
Jan 30, 2003, 6:17 PM
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The only activity you are restricted from if you don't compete is climbing in the competition area, which is quite large. You can climb down the road, but you have to drive to get there.
Camping is free to all but it goes early. T-shirt, dinner and breakfast the next morning is included for those competing and volunteering (another option, but requires you to be in the Phoenix are several weeks prior). Dyno comp is by invitation only.
[ This Message was edited by: climberchic on 2003-01-30 10:18 ]
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kmunderground
Jan 30, 2003, 6:37 PM
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I'm not planning on going at all, but was just wondering how they can close that area for the comp? Isn't it all on public land? Do they get a special closure from the managing agency or do they just harrass people so much that they leave? Seems like unless they get a closure you should be able to climb if you want.
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rockram
Jan 30, 2003, 6:47 PM
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i live in AZ...and the PBC is totally worth traveling cross-country to go to!!!!!!! it rocks!!!! this year, i actually plan to be in it...i'm so excited!
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climberchic
Jan 30, 2003, 7:04 PM
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Fantastic rockram!! Good luck!
mark, do you even need to ask??
kmundergroundI believe it may be Forest Land, although it could be BLM. Either way, the PBC coordinators work closely with the land managing agency and the Town of Superior and support the integrity of the contest.
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phugganut
Jan 30, 2003, 7:35 PM
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Hey ClimberChic,
I'm fairly new to the area, but I'm volunteering at the PBC. Since you seem to be the resident expert on the PBC, I have a few questions. I can't come out until Thursday night (damn job!) so does this mean that all the campsites , or at least all the good ones, will be taken by then? Also, which night is the party, Saturday? I ask b/c I was under the impression that the Comp was also on Sunday. Thanks for any help you can provide.
Also, for those wondering, there are MANY great places to climb in the area if you are not competing. Mostly sport, but some trad,, TR, and even some bouldering spots, so don't let that stop you from coming. I'd be happy to show people the other places to climb; just drop me a PM.
-Mike
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rock_diva
Jan 30, 2003, 8:02 PM
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I'm going just to compete with Climberchic!
Actually, this will be my first year and the only thing I'm competing with is a certain point total.
I heard rumor that the format will be different this year (overheard something in the gym, but my eavesdropping skills weren't too good). Anyone heard the same? Also, can someone give a brief synopsis of how the contest is run, what area of QC, etc for those of us who haven't been there?
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climberchic
Jan 30, 2003, 8:26 PM
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Great Questions!
Ok...no, you will not be too late on Thursday. By Friday, there are slim pickins. I got out there Wednesday of last year, set up my tent, along with several others, and bribed our next doors neighbors to keep an eye on the tents until we returned the next day. I can tell you that the PBC gets bigger every year and the main camping area was filling up by the time I was done on Wednesday of last year.
Typical Agenda:
Friday:
Arrive, check-in, register and pick up packets.
Set up camp, then rush out to the vendor booths to stock up on gear for the rest of the year.
Dinner, then sometimes pre-comp meetings for competitors.
Sometimes contests, raffles and clinics by pros.
Go to sleep early!
Saturday:
Awaken to the inhumane blaring of Jimi Hendrix's National Anthem.
Quickly eat and rush to pre-comp meeting to find out comp rules, where to go and when to meet. Mandatory for competitors.
Spectators walk out to comp sites and wait for air horn to start comp.
Comp usually ends by 2pm or so.
Everyone goes back to camp, cleans up, gets food and hangs out at vendor booths.
Once the Fish booth opens, and the bands start, the party has begun!
Dyno comp durinig intermission of bands.
Announcement of winners and Access Fund auction and raffle.
Sunday:
Drag thyself out to breakfast and clean up camp.
Stumble home and swear that you will toughen up your fingertips to prepare for the next PBC.
Did I miss anything?
I have not heard of format change for this year, but I'll check it out and get back with y'all.
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ebelay
Jan 30, 2003, 8:32 PM
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Hopefully this can add to Erica's excellent breakdown of the comp:
"Can I climb if I'm not competing?" - Yes, as some people have responded, Queen Creek is a HUGE area and there is plenty of climbing to be done outside of the comp area. You just can't climb within the comp area.
"What area will the comp be held in this year?" - Last year's comp was in the Oak Flat West area (which means there will be lots of excellent bouldering open outside of the comp) so it won't be there this year. I've heard rumors that it will be held in the Euro Dog Valley area.
"Will there be room to camp if I show up late?" - Again, the area is huge. The sites closest to the vendor area (Oak Flat CG) and along the road will fill up first but you can always find camping outside of the primary area or have a friend hold a spot for you. There aren't designated camp sites, just open space along the road and lots of open space in the desert surrounding the area.
"What is the format of the comp?" - You get points for the probs you do over a period of time on the day of the comp (~6hrs). You get to tally your top (is it eight?) problem points which equals your total score. There are Local/Non-Local/M/F/Age categories. I might be wrong on some of this and probably missed something.
"Which night is the party?" - It starts Friday night but the big display of debauchery, dyno comp, band...is typically Saturday night after the comp. Sunday's pretty much a clean-up day.
Hope that helps. Feel free to drop me a PM if you have any other PHX/AZ related questions. Hope to see you all there!
--Eric
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climberchic
Jan 30, 2003, 9:51 PM
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Sounds right to me Eric. I think it's your top 7 scores, though. I may be wrong
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epic_ed
Jan 30, 2003, 10:25 PM
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Just wanted to add to the rumor mill...
I'm volunteering again this year and have been in on some of the planning. Jim Waugh and some of the usual suspects have already been out picking routes and establishing point levels for problems. Word is that it WON'T be in Euro Dog this year, but someplace that has never hosted the PBC. It ought to be mighty sweet, but details are under wraps.
As for climbing in the area during the comp weekend: Jim manages to secure the entire area for privilidged access for the PBC ONLY during that weekend. He does this by working through BLM and other State agencies (including the Sheriffs Dept), and yes, anything near or around the event (not just the competition area) is closed for the weekend. This has pissed a lot of people off in the past when climbers have been turned away who wanted to climb at (for example) Magma Mine area when the comp was taking place at Oak Flats. Expect the same this year. Anything accessed by the road leading to Oak Flat Campground and on up to the Mine area will be off limits to climbing for that weekend. The Pond and Atlantis which are access off of the highway will still be open.
Regarding camping: The prime spots will be taken by the volunteers who show up for the entire week before the comp, but people arrive as late as Saturday morning and find some place to crash. The later you arrive, the more you can expect to walk to get to the main camping area. To date they have never capped the number of people camping and no one has been turned away.
So regardless of when you can arrive, make plans to be there. If you are competing, there is a check-in deadline -- usually midnight the night before the comp. There are many epic stories of climbers racing down the interstates from ridiculously far origins, breaking every conceivable traffic law to just beat the clock for check-in. Is it worth it? No doubt about it.
See ya there!
Ed
Edited to take the boot out of my ass for disclosing info about the actual location. Now if I can only pull my head out of there...
[ This Message was edited by: up2top on 2003-01-31 16:24 ]
[ This Message was edited by: up2top on 2003-01-31 16:25 ]
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phugganut
Jan 31, 2003, 12:43 AM
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Ok, sorry to be such a newbie, but I have another question... Most of my camping gear is high quality, and has cost me a pretty penny over the years. Has there been any problens w/theft during the day when everyone's away??? ClimberChic yopu mentioned something about having people watch your stuff & it got me wondering. I mean, if I pack it all up each day, then I'll lose my spot; if I don't then will it be gone?
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superbum
Jan 31, 2003, 1:11 AM
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Um, I went last year and thanks to the Fish-booth I didn't even finish watching the DYNO comp...I had a hellofa time stumbling back to my tent in the dark though! I suggest coming early as well, the campground gets very insane! I had a great spot (I'm gonna get it again this year you just watch!) and I woke one morning to find three new tents pitched around my fire pit! Also, a slackline was strung a yard from my tent door resulting in many wipeouts via clothslining when returning to camp late at night.
Fun scene overall...I will be there...hopefully climbing this time as I was too poor to enter last year.
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superbum
Jan 31, 2003, 1:16 AM
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I wouldn't worry TOO much about getting jacked. There are so many crappy as well as top end tents, etc. every five feet that the probability of you getting robbed is very low. As always, there is a risk...just pack a daypack with expensive stuff and carry it around. Make friends with your neighbors and have them watch your stuff too. I would worry about losing your spot more than your stuff because once you pack up...it's gone!
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climberchic
Jan 31, 2003, 7:11 PM
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I have never had a problem with anything being stolen and I don't think I've had friends at anything taken. However, at the first comp I went to, one of the local female climbers had her very expensive North Face tent stolen from the main camping area WHILE she was competing. It absolutely ruined her time there as she had lost faith in the climbers.
I'm not super worried, but I also plan on locking my valuables up in my car and bringing a crappy tent.
Oh, and Ed? I'm telling Jim yer snitchin'
j/k
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epic_ed
Feb 1, 2003, 12:28 AM
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Yeah, I wasn't told the info was classified, but I should have known. I changed my post above to reflect a more mysterious degree of ambiguity.
Like I can keep a secret.
Ed
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moeman
Feb 1, 2003, 12:57 AM
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I wish I could go. It must beat any indoor comp to a bloody pulp.
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climberchic
Feb 1, 2003, 1:20 AM
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Awww, Ed...I was just kidding.
Besides, that kind of stuff leaking out will be the least of his worries. Just watch: Right around a month or so before the comp, watch him freak out because nobody has signed up (he donates buco buckos of his own to run the comp hoping to get reimbursed by competitors fees). He'll threaten to cancel the comp and swear not to have one next year.
Then the comp day shows up and they fill all of the competitors slots and Jim finally takes a breath for the first time in 6 months.
Gotta love him
P.S. The is by far the best comp I've ever been to. Not only is it on real rock, but it is the largest outdoor climbing competition in the world.
[ This Message was edited by: climberchic on 2003-01-31 17:21 ]
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climbsomething
Feb 1, 2003, 1:44 AM
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Yep, I'll be there, along with my University krew. It will be good
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climberchic
Feb 6, 2003, 12:40 AM
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Awesome Hillary!
Maybe we'll, like, get to climb this time?
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beyond_gravity
Feb 6, 2003, 1:02 AM
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How hard is this comp? My girlfriend wants to go into it.
Would it be sutable for a V3 boulderer?
Is it even worth going if you can't drink?
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climberchic
Feb 6, 2003, 5:51 AM
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Yes, she'd probably do well.
And yes...you'd still have the time of your life even if you couldn't drink. Just the gear deals alone are worth the trip.
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hendicrimpin
Feb 6, 2003, 6:11 AM
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erica knows all...do not doubt her. Actually, i'm pretty sure SHE will be running the competition come April
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