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seabee
Feb 3, 2003, 5:40 PM
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Anyone have any experience with this one? I was considering it for solo toproping.
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gawd
Feb 3, 2003, 6:12 PM
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best one out there for it.
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punk
Feb 3, 2003, 6:12 PM
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great device for the job
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kevlar
Feb 3, 2003, 6:39 PM
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wow...glad to hear good things about the ushba...mine is in the mail..i am told... what is the cost$? found mine for $62.00usa
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seabee
Feb 3, 2003, 6:42 PM
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Ural Sport sells them on Ebay for $50 (the titanium one). Which brings me to my next question - which one do you guys use? They have the titanium, an aluminum with titanium pins, and a steel one (which is twice as heavy but only costs $25). I was looking at the Wren soloist, but the Basic caught my eye, since it's half the price.
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naitch
Feb 3, 2003, 6:43 PM
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I haven't used it but other's I've talked to thought it was great. I have a question related to this. Which do you solo top-ropers think would be a better approach? To anchor the middle of the rope to the top anchor with an 8 on a bite. Or, to anchor the rope to something satationary on the ground and have it go up through the biners/draws at the top anchor and back down to the ascender attached to the climber. It the event of a 'fall', it seems like this method would provide more give and less stress on the climber/rope as they near the anchor. Comments? Sorry I'm not trying to change the thread... [ This Message was edited by: naitch on 2003-02-03 12:43 ]
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gawd
Feb 3, 2003, 6:52 PM
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the ti one is the one to get anchor your rope from an anchor above with an 8 on a bite. throw rope. rap line. coil the rest of your rope into rope bag, to add what little weight is nec. make sure to tie a back up once in awhile. email with more ??'s
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koko
Feb 3, 2003, 7:14 PM
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whats the best knot to tie for a back up while youre climbing in this style?
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aaron4peace
Feb 3, 2003, 7:34 PM
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You can tie the end of the rope into yourself, as though you were both belaying and climbing.
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aaron4peace
Feb 3, 2003, 8:08 PM
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oh yah, use something simple like a figure 8
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earthclimber
Feb 3, 2003, 8:16 PM
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I love my ushba basic for solo toprope. The figure 8 on a bite clipped in at the top is how i solo. The only problem is that after climbing and rapping a few times, its pretty much impossible to undo the figure 8.
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asaph
Feb 3, 2003, 8:21 PM
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what does that acronym stand for?
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earthclimber
Feb 3, 2003, 8:22 PM
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I dont think USHBA is an acronym. Its the company name.
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wlderdude
Feb 4, 2003, 1:04 AM
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I think it's a Russian name (or word).
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hardmanknott
Feb 4, 2003, 1:24 AM
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Earthclimber wrote: I love my ushba basic for solo toprope. The figure 8 on a bite clipped in at the top is how i solo. The only problem is that after climbing and rapping a few times, its pretty much impossible to undo the figure 8... -------------------------------------------- This is why I use the Bowline On A Bight. As easy to untie as the Double Bowline I use on my harness. For a nice pictorial, see More Climbing Anchors, by John Long. As to the Ushba Basic, nothing feeds better for solo toproping! Hardman Knott [ This Message was edited by: hardmanknott on 2003-02-03 17:28 ]
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punk
Feb 4, 2003, 3:19 AM
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Mount Ushba in the Caucasus of Gorgia the former USSR Central Caucasus. Svanetia. Ushba mountain (4700 m) on the background - popular goal for experienced climbers (up to 5B UIAA). BTW The name pronounced OOSH-BA and not YOSH-BA [ This Message was edited by: punk on 2003-02-03 19:24 ]
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asaph
Feb 4, 2003, 3:29 AM
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I'm intruiged as to what this device actually is - yet my searches for "USHBA" on eBay are met with no results. could I get some linkage please?
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billcoe_
Feb 4, 2003, 3:43 AM
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Damn I love titanium. Love it. And Ushubas stuff looks awesome. http://www.ushba.com/ http://www.ushba.com/product_info.html For knots: a simple overhand will suffice. Untying that knot if you ever fall on it would suck however, and the figure 8 would be superior. When I find myself pumping out while tying the backup, overhand it is. Also, use 2 lockers so you don't have to drop a knot if the locker gets full of your backup knots. Its safer as well, imagine falling while trying to make the clip. Uhhh Huh. Ouch. I have 2 of the 3 wren products, and I think the Ushba stuff would work as well, perhaps better?, for toproping. Enjoy: Bill
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seabee
Feb 4, 2003, 3:56 AM
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on Ebay: http://www.stores.ebay.com/id=58532431
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number7
Feb 4, 2003, 4:06 AM
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I've had my USHBA since last summer, but I haven't used it yet. I'm a bit intimidated to solo (there's just something wierd about it). Also, do you all tie backups in the rope below the accender, or do you double the rope and pre-tie loops in the unused line? I always figured I would tie loops in the used line and clip as I go. This way there is still plenty of weight on the used line to keep it running smoothly. Let me know if this is how you all do it and/or other methods. Thanks, M
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johnhenry
Feb 4, 2003, 8:20 AM
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The Ushba is a great unit that is excellent for toprope soloing. I would repeat the same praise as everyone else. But the quote, "Nothing is better for toperope soloing" is actually un-true. The Petzl Mini-traxion is a smoother top-rope solo device. I have used them both on the same routes to compare and the pully of the Mini makes it the smoothest of the two. Anticipating the typical forum responces; people will say "sheath damage," "sharp teeth", etc. but this is a Petzl approved technique. Try it you will like it. Happy Top-roping, John
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number7
Feb 6, 2003, 1:26 AM
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Is anyone willing to answer my question 2 posts above I'm really interested in others opinions.
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koko
Feb 6, 2003, 8:22 PM
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yeah, i'm with number7, slightly confused as to how you back up this thing, other than a knot at the end of the rope. could someone explain please, and maybe stick a drwaing in too? thanks. i am so going to buy one when i get money
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number7
Feb 7, 2003, 3:48 AM
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Anyone?
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number7
Feb 7, 2003, 3:54 AM
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Thank you gawd and seabee who were so kind as to drop me a PM on my question. I love this family M
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