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vram1974
Feb 2, 2003, 3:30 PM
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Registered: Jan 27, 2003
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First off, I love bouldering and trad, but do neither right now because it's been -10 outside for a month straight. So basically all my climbing is done indoors. When I'm indoors I put my harness on about once every two months. The majority of the time is spent making up very hard problems for myself.
I don't think my progress in bouldering is that bad, but I have a couple of questions and comments.
Comment: I heard the best way to improve is by climbing with someone way better than you, and then trying their problems. I noticed many climbers improve their skills by trying my problems. But in my gym there are few climbers who are pushing the V6 level, so I find myself bouldering alone a lot, trying to make sick problems up. I'm not trying to sound good or anything... when I go to rock comps I get smoked by the majority of boulderers there. When I do ask good boulderers about how they improved, many of them said they had a "mentor".
Question: Indoor routes bore the living hell out of me. I would much rather sit in the cave, making up problems. But there are many good boulderers who swear by enduro training by climbing up and down and up routes to get powerful. It could be true since I find I lack enduro on longer probs.
Disclaimer: I'm not about the numbers game, and I do love to just boulder, regardless of the V-rating. The thing is that I feel like I'm improving pretty slowly, and at 28 years old I'm already feeling like an old fart next to the 22 years old campusing the V8's effortlessly
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lox
Feb 2, 2003, 5:56 PM
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Registered: Oct 2, 2002
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Ok, first off, roping up isn't worth it outside, much less on plastic. PowerEndurance on longer problems is best trained for by making up longer problems of sustained toughness....
And basically, this is what you want to do.
You know it is going to be bad outside for a while, so focus on your training regime.
After a good warmup, stick to 45 degrees and 20 degrees overhung... train on friendly slopers. Get a circuit of hard problems wired.
Work on not only wiring the movement into your head, but owning it with your body.
Build your circuit and hten try to do it quicky...
HAVE FUN.
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spydey
Feb 5, 2003, 7:08 PM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2003
Posts: 35
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I climb with guys that are way better than me.they allways give me tips on how to do seartain moves and they hep me in my technique. one tip they made jumped me up from a 6a - 6b.
it fun to watch them doo crazy stuff as well.
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boulderpaul
Feb 5, 2003, 7:32 PM
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Registered: Sep 16, 2002
Posts: 108
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i find when im climbing with people at my ability or above my ability i climb stronger. i think this is because i force my self to do the moves so that i am on the same move as them trying to figure out the squence. this has helped me become a lot better of a climber. also climbing stuff that is harder than you can do is also really good, you may even surprise yourself and send!
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overlord
Feb 7, 2003, 12:49 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
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you improve wen climbing with climbers that prefer different techniques than you. they make you develop technique, because you have to figure out how to do moves youre not used to.
CLIMB ON
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sharmagod
Feb 7, 2003, 8:13 PM
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Registered: Mar 19, 2002
Posts: 535
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Get a fingerboard....or build your own bouldering cave.
Jason
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jerryderl
Feb 7, 2003, 8:55 PM
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Registered: Apr 5, 2002
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Eric Horst says in the "how to climb 5.12" book that there are nine absolutes in climbing one of which is "Strength training builds endurance, but endurance training does not build maximum strength."
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canrocker
Feb 7, 2003, 10:04 PM
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Registered: Dec 7, 2002
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Move to BC and boulder outdoors year-round! It never even gets close to -10. And since it hasn't been raining much lately, there's tons of time to get OUTSIDE.
Just an idea.
-CR
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boulderinemt
Feb 13, 2003, 5:36 AM
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Registered: Feb 9, 2003
Posts: 282
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i'd recommend the finger board, and i like the idea of following someone better than yourself. what also helped me get stronger was doing sit start problems. that way you have to build up arm strength(you can't just use your legs to push up) it also adds length to a problem indoors. climb on
j
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lox
Feb 13, 2003, 7:29 PM
Post #10 of 13
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Registered: Oct 2, 2002
Posts: 2307
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Hang out ?
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carnaged
Feb 15, 2003, 10:04 PM
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Registered: Jun 20, 2002
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Climbing in BC isn't ALL year 'round. In Kelowna it often gets to -10 during winter, and we usually get a fair amount of snow, and lots of rain in the spring.
For the past four months I've been a gym rat, but after taking a month's break, I'm slowly getting back into the groove. It is hard, because I'm a wimp, and tend to give out as soon as it gets hard. But don't take this from me, I have three other climbing partners all better than me, in some areas.
Bouldering in the gym doesn't have to get boring, either. People who don't climb as well as you do, may suprise you. Have you ever heard a game of Add-On?
Basically, you make up a sequence as you go. One person starts, and moves however many holds preferred, and then the next person does the same moves, and adds on to that. If you've got a good partner to play with, it can get really hard, and long. It's good for endurance too. Even if it's just warming up.
I also often find myself bouldering around the gyms a lot too, but I never get bored. I stick myself on a problem, and work the moves out until I finish it. By the end of it I usually have the moves dialed out so bad that I could probably climb the sequence blind folded.
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lox
Feb 16, 2003, 10:27 AM
Post #12 of 13
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Registered: Oct 2, 2002
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I climb blindfolded.
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moeman
Feb 16, 2003, 1:22 PM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
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BOULDER TRAVERSING CIRCUITS!!!! If all the wall are connected in you're gym, i.e. they are right next to each other, then try to do the infamous full gym traverse. Altogh it sounds easy because you can use any holds, it is not. Start on the easier, vertical rope walls and traverse across the base, and then into the boulder cave. If you're gym is HUGE like the one i go to, your finger will be a little tired by the ime you reah the boulder cave. Then, you will have to traverse across 25 feet (well, dependin on how good your cave is) of 20-50 degree over hangs when you're already sort of pumped. If thats not power endurance, I don't know what is.Also, traversing is footwork intensive, so you're feet will become very deft.
Note: Once you gett stronger, make it hard on yourself in the cave. Don't choose the easiest route through. If you have a choice between the verticle wall or the roof above it, go across the roof
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