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alpnclmbr1
Feb 5, 2003, 10:01 PM
Post #26 of 32
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Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
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Hey Gator
Is tony living there, or did he just set the gym up.
if he is course setting the grades are probably a little stiff compared to the outside, just as it should be.
unless he has changed over the years
take care
d
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gatorclimber
Feb 5, 2003, 10:05 PM
Post #27 of 32
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Registered: Oct 8, 2002
Posts: 83
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Tony Yaniro comes in once and a while and climbs. I don't know if he lives around here but he comes in about once every few monthes or so. Usually around the time my gym decides to take down all the routes and put up new ones. He recently judged a competition we had there and afterwards taught a climbing class. I didn't take it because I didn't know who he was. But I am beginning to wish I had now that I am finding out more info about him. As a matter of fact he was here about 2 weeks ago and set up some boulder routes and climbed with some of us.
[ This Message was edited by: gatorclimber on 2003-02-05 14:20 ]
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xcel360
Feb 5, 2003, 10:49 PM
Post #28 of 32
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Registered: Jul 20, 2002
Posts: 481
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Hey bro, if you want an honest opinion without people raggin on ya, lemme say this. First off, I've climbed at most of the gyms here in Florida, gainsville, aguille, and I train at on the edge in melbourne, and ALL three of them are known for buttering up grades, meaning they aren't as difficult as they say. For instance, a v2/3 at your gym (I'm assuming gainsville, right?) will probably equate to v0/1 on real rock. I'm not saying this to be mean at all. I started climbing here in Florida this summer, and there was a HUGE difference between the gym and real rock.
It sounds like you almost have the natural strength ability to climb really tough grades. What it's really gonna start boiling down to is your technique, which is something you can't train hard enough. Most of us, myself included, after about 4-6 months of climbing/training, will usually plateau around 5.9's. It seems you've plataued higher (5.11's), which is good. To progress to that next level, you need to not worry about training your strenth as hard (ie: pullups, campusing), but rather your actual grip strength and your technique.
As you said, you can't do much past 60 degrees past vertical, and your roof skills suck. That is IMHO a direct reflection on the fact that you need to work technique. So in conclusion, there is no way to honestly say how high in the grades you'll get. That is solely up to you and how hard you work (which seems pretty hard). I'd also advise you to get out and get on some real rock. About once a month I try to go GA or Alabama myself, your more than welcome to tag along. In a few weekends I'll be going to HP40 in Alabama, and to a WV gathering at Nelson Rocks. You should definetly go to WV if you can, the advice and experience you'll get from people there will be **invaluable**. Also if you ever want to journey over to Melbourne for someone to climb with, that's where I'll be. I'm no pro climber myself, and I'm sure my technique personally sucks, but I'm working on it. Hope this helps you out!
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pywiak
Feb 5, 2003, 10:51 PM
Post #29 of 32
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Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 105
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No reason you shouldn't be able to progress to sport .13s in the next few years if you keep at it. Your height/reach/weight ratios are quite favorable. You'll need to train your weaknesses (contact strength, large-muscle groups, possibly power-endurance). While you're at it, work flexibility, technique, and mental discipline. Patience and persistence (and not over-training) are key. Tony Y. is a good man with lots of knowledge. Ask him for help next time he's in town (and don't be afraid to kick him some $$$ for his time and wisdom).
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mreardon
Feb 6, 2003, 12:23 AM
Post #30 of 32
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 1337
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I'm not sure about the whole genetic thing. I pulled hard as a kid, then blew a shoulder. Several years of therapy and I had to restart. Now I'm in my 30s and pulling harder than I ever could have back then. A few moves on the home wall or in a large gym never helped me, being outside and climbing several hundred routes in a couple dozen places did. So get the experience because the pretty blue footholds aren't on the rock.
As for age, Lynn Hill did her hardest climb in her late 30s after 20+ years of climbing. Yaniro pulled "Equinox" (12c trad) way back when, and then did 14 sport much later in life. Jason Campbell was 26(?) when he onsighted "moonlight buttress" (13a multi-pitch trad) whereas Sharma was 18 when he pulled 13b trad onsight and 21(?) when he did 15a. Now, I have three friends in their 40s that are pulling harder than they ever did when they were in their 20s.
At the end of the day, just climb, don't get injured and hopefully you'll get beyond the numbers game.
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crack_head
Feb 6, 2003, 12:57 AM
Post #31 of 32
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Registered: Dec 23, 2002
Posts: 210
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uhhh
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enigma
Feb 6, 2003, 3:47 AM
Post #32 of 32
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Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
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Predict you will give Sharma a run for the most difficult climb he's ever done. Predict you will win every bouldering contest you enter. Predict you will make it on every cover of every rock climbing magazine.Predict you will free the most elusive climbs that no man/woman has done.Predict you will put up lines on every mountain that one can imagine, and one hasn't yet imagined.
O.K. Does that feed your ego and make you feel better??
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