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alpnclmbr1
Feb 5, 2003, 5:55 PM
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Registered: Dec 10, 2002
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Traitor horn
Open book
The flower of high rank
Insomnia
The green arch
The vampire
Wanger banger
Heart of darkness
Equinox
Walt baileys
Macarthy west
Incredible hand crack****
Fingers in a light socket
Thin ice
The prow at the forks
Wine and roses
Country club crack
Terror in tiny town
Whimsical dreams
These are the ones I remember the most so I guess they are my favs
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peas
Feb 5, 2003, 6:10 PM
Post #52 of 78
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Registered: Mar 30, 2002
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Two more for Squamish:
St. Vitus Dance 5.9
The Zip 10a
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pranaguy
Feb 5, 2003, 7:05 PM
Post #53 of 78
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So I just started climbing trad now, so my list is kinda small, but anyways, here it is.
Joshua Tree:
-Sail Away
-Touch and Go
-White Lightning
Tahquitz:
-Daves Deviation
-Wong Climb (or is it Long Climb? I always mix them up. The one on the left.)
-dihedral pitch of Whodunit
Oh yeah, and at Roubidoux, Turtle Dome Crack.
-Matt
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crack_head
Feb 5, 2003, 7:21 PM
Post #54 of 78
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Posts: 210
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yummy
i love cracks
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braaaaaaaadley
Feb 5, 2003, 7:33 PM
Post #55 of 78
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I second Jaws (5.9) at New River Gorge
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dingus
Feb 5, 2003, 7:37 PM
Post #56 of 78
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Giving the question serious thought, I honestly can't say... what's in a favorite? Pure climbing pleasure? Personal milestones? Top performance? Reptitions? Bragging rights? All of those things potentially go into the soup. I find it difficult to put my finger on any one route that includes them all however.
If I count repititions as the primary measure, say crack climbs I've done 10+ times as a start and then select my favs of that group, I'd suggest the gold standards of Yosemite moderates:
Serenity/Sons of Yesterday
CP of Frenzy
E. Butt of Middle
Regular Higher Spire
Braille Book
Bishops Terrace
Arrowhead Arete
Nutcracker
Jamcrack
Crescent Arch
West Crack
Regular Fairview
South Crack
Never seem to tire repeating those!
Honorable mentions (below 10 but so good I find myself thinking of them anyway)
Lucky Streaks
NE Butt of Higher Cathedral Rock
W. Ridge of Conness
3rd Pillar of Dana
Outside the Yosemight:
Rawhide
Fatcrackistan
3 Finger Jack
Gemini Cracks
War of the Walls
Nibbler
Tag Team
The Line
Corrigation Corner
Haystack
Surrealistic Pillar
One Hand Clapping
Done plenty of more difficult lines. Hard for a chicken like me to say they were my favs though.
DMT
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madturtle
Feb 5, 2003, 8:38 PM
Post #57 of 78
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Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 165
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Hospital corner 10a, traveller's buttress 9 -lovers leap
Retribution 10b, kens crack 7 -the gunks
first few pitches of RR on Fairview dome 9 -tuolomne
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deed
Feb 5, 2003, 8:50 PM
Post #58 of 78
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Registered: Jun 20, 2000
Posts: 20
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Spiderman - Smith Rock
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davidji
Feb 6, 2003, 1:12 AM
Post #59 of 78
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Fun ones I've seen on other people's lists-
Yosemite:
South Crack, Stately Pleasure Dome
Reg Rt, Fairview Dome
Jam Crack
Bishop's Terrace
JT (if you can consider a short pitch a *must do*):
Heart of Darkness. Great but short
Illusion Dweller. " "
Sail Away. " "
The rest are some fun crack climbs I haven't yet seen anyone mention
Dr. Evil, ORG. Perhaps the only sport climb to make these lists.
And if you like the wider side of crack climbing:
Bongs Away, Left, Yosemite.
Right Side of the Cookie, Yosemite. Tops out
with perfect hands, but a bit bigger below.
Full Body Stem, JT. You don't get to practice that move in the gym.
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mesomorf
Feb 6, 2003, 1:43 AM
Post #60 of 78
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Registered: Feb 3, 2002
Posts: 397
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Maybe these are not the all-time greats, but they stick in my memory:
Mr. Clean, Devil's Tower
Climb and Punishment, Vedauwoo
Black Elk, Wind River Range
Abracadaver, Cochise Stronghold
The Headache, Zion
10.96, Yosemite
Hotline, Yosemite (especially p3)
Sands of Time, Calaveras Dome
Pratt's Crack, Pine Creek Canyon (Sierra East side)
Bottomless Topless, Donner Summit
Some of these may be "mixed" - crack and face.
[ This Message was edited by: mesomorf on 2003-02-05 18:41 ]
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kalcario
Feb 6, 2003, 1:57 AM
Post #61 of 78
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IMO some of the best:
Don Juan Wall Needles
Hotline, Tips, Crack-A-Go-Go, Lunatic Fringe, Red Zinger, Anticipation, Ying Yang, Yosemite Valley
Primate Crossing, Speed of Life and Blues Riff Tuolumne
Monkey Paws Donner Summit
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dirtme
Feb 6, 2003, 6:24 PM
Post #62 of 78
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Posts: 107
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I haven't climbed in many places besides California. So, here's the ones I've done and have loved:
Sacherer Cracker 10a - how can you not like a crack that starts at fingers and ends in an offwidth.
Outer Limits 10d - 1st pitch has perfect hands at the top. The 2nd pitch is a really cool undercling.
Reeds Direct 10a - A little easier then Outer Limits but it's a great endurance builder.
Sons of Yesterday 10a - How did this not get mentioned?
Gripper - 1st and 3rd pitches. Some serious grovelling on the 1st pitch with the offwidths and the 3rd pitch is one of the best hand jamming you'll ever do.
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couloir
Feb 6, 2003, 6:30 PM
Post #63 of 78
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Posts: 304
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Mr. Natural 5.10c-Yosemite
Sherries Crack 5.10c-Yosemite
Peruvian Flake 5.10a-Yosemite
Arkansas Reality 5.11+-Sam's Throne, AR
Instant Karma 5.10+-Sam's Throne, AR
The Bolted One 5.11a-Jackson Falls, IL
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rockprodigy
Feb 9, 2003, 5:05 PM
Post #64 of 78
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
Posts: 1540
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Smith Rock:
Moonshine Dihedral
Wildfire
Kunza Corner
Wartley's Revenge
Sunshine Dihedral
Rising Expectations
Zebra Seam
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rockprodigy
Feb 9, 2003, 5:09 PM
Post #65 of 78
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Yosemite:
Double Cracks pitch on Reg NW Face of HD
Reed's Direct
Stovelegs!!
Flake pith on E. Butt Middle Cathedral
Sons of Yesterday
Sherrie's Crack
Wheat Thin
Serenity Crack
Changing Corners on Astroman
Crack-a-go-go
Red Zinger
Seperate Reality
Crimson Cringe
Fish Crack
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rockprodigy
Feb 9, 2003, 5:16 PM
Post #66 of 78
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Posts: 1540
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Little Cottonwood Canyon:
Pentapitch
Satan's Corner
Crack in the Woods
Sasquatch
Green Adjective
Half a Finger
Coffin Crack
S Direct
Wheel's on Fire
Gordon's Hangover
Mexican Crack
Plumb Line
Gordon's Direct
Tick Fever
Looney Tunes
Stormy Resurrection
Mother of Pearl
Coyne's Crack
S-Crack
Right Trinity
Coffin Roof
Frozen Stool
On the Waterfront
Trench Warfare
Fallen Arches
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rockprodigy
Feb 9, 2003, 5:21 PM
Post #67 of 78
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
Posts: 1540
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Indian Creek:
Supercrack
IHC
Lightning Bolt Crack
Pitch 2 of Hummingbird spire-perfect hands!
Scarface
Coyne Crack
Johnny Cat
King Cat
Fuel Injected Hardbody
Digital Readout
Other Utah desert:
Ice Cream Parlor
Fine Jade
Jah Man
Boothill - Long Canyon
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rockprodigy
Feb 9, 2003, 5:25 PM
Post #68 of 78
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Colorado:
Boulder area:
Calipso
Bastille
Supremacy Crack
Country Club Crack
Gill Crack
Garden of the Gods:
New Era
West Point Crack
Anaconda
Kor's Corner
Lumpy:
George's Tree
J Crack
Grand Junction Area:
The Cruise
Stoned Oven
Fast Draw-Sentinel Spire
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sonso45
Feb 11, 2003, 12:36 AM
Post #69 of 78
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Registered: Sep 1, 2002
Posts: 997
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Coatamundi Whiteout-Granite Mtn
The Wasteland-Cochise Stronghold
Days of Future Passed-Stronghold
The Mace-Sedona
Watusi-Paradise Forks
Deep Freeze-McDowells
Mean Mistreater-Mt Lemmon
In AZ these are only a few of the greats.
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buoux9
Feb 11, 2003, 12:39 AM
Post #70 of 78
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Registered: Jul 31, 2001
Posts: 12
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Let's see.....
Dog Police .10 - Pine Creek - Red Rocks
Out Of Control .10c - Pine Creek - Red Rocks
Pillow Fight .10+ - Pillow Wall - Paradise Forks
Mr. Natural .10 - Glacier Pt. Apron - Yosemite
Paradise Lost .11+ - Davidson Wall - Paradise Forks
Coyne Crack .11+ - Indian Creek
Incredible Handcrack .10 - Indian Creek
Flails Of Power .11 - Cerebrus - Zion
Bloodline .10 - Pine Creek - Red Rocks
Psycho Snail .10b - Bowl Of Fire - Nevada
There are so many good cracks that I realize that it's somewhat difficult to sit here and list them all, but the memory of each one is so good. Gotta love it!
[ This Message was edited by: buoux9 on 2003-02-10 16:40 ]
[ This Message was edited by: buoux9 on 2003-02-10 16:41 ]
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phoenix
Feb 11, 2003, 12:43 AM
Post #71 of 78
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Registered: Jan 19, 2003
Posts: 23
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Tales of Power 12.B in Yosemite is definitely my favorite crack of all time. Flared squeeze chimney to finger crank mantel...into alcove...into the most amazing thin hands splitter known to man...slicing up a black streaked granite headwall...to the final overhanging sqeeze chimney. Simply pulchritudinous...
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phoenix
Feb 11, 2003, 12:44 AM
Post #72 of 78
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Registered: Jan 19, 2003
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Oh, and astroman is nice too.
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tayers
Feb 11, 2003, 2:27 AM
Post #73 of 78
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Registered: Feb 6, 2003
Posts: 5
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Thin Ice 5.10 in the Needles Ca.
this is a must do for awsomes steepness and amazing scenery.
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punk
Feb 11, 2003, 2:48 AM
Post #74 of 78
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442
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Spanish Harlem on 135 st meet POPO or in the Bronx G Money also East New York going to see Slam he have the best crack ever
Oh $hit we are not talking about this kind of crack…and it is too long to list
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tayers
Feb 12, 2003, 2:05 AM
Post #75 of 78
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Registered: Feb 6, 2003
Posts: 5
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Don't forget the rostrum in Yosemite super crack climbing. And rostroman is even better thats both in a day.
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