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Partner cracklover


Feb 6, 2003, 12:25 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Gear questions  (North_America: United_States: California: Joshua_Tree_National_Park: _Joshua_Tree_National_Park_Overview_)
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In the process of wrapping up details for my trip next week to J-tree I suddenly realized that my gear may be insufficient!

The first question I have is about big protection. Right now the biggest cams on my rack are one each of the Camalot sizes 1, 1.5, and 2 (A size 2 Camalot is equivalent to size 2.5 or 3 Friend). I also have a set of hexcentrics that get pretty big, but that's not really the same thing. Would it be wise for me to invest in a size 2.5 or 3 Camalot? Bigger?

The other question is about ropes. I'd been thinking about getting a set of doubles, but I haven't seen any deals yet. So right now I (actually, we'll be using my partner's) have a single 60m rope. Is that enough? Or will we need a second one?

Thanks!

GO



alpnclmbr1


Feb 6, 2003, 12:35 PM
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I for one hardly ever carry anything bigger then a #2 camalot in J-tree. Probably good enough for 80% of the routes.
A #3 would be another 10% and a #4 for a few particular 5.11's

Bigger cams can be usefull for the anchors at the top of some routes but you can usually figure something else that will work


mauriceb


Feb 6, 2003, 12:53 PM
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While not a JTree experts I haven't seen to many people using double ropes. 60m should be fine. Besides, walkoffs are very popular at JTree

maurice


crack_head


Feb 6, 2003, 12:53 PM
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a 1.5 and 2.5 camalot are you talking about black diamond camalots you speak jibberish


vegastradguy


Feb 6, 2003, 12:58 PM
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camalot = BD, kind of like Wild Country Friends, its BD's name for the device. The device itself is just a cam.



Partner cracklover


Feb 6, 2003, 1:07 PM
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Quote:a 1.5 and 2.5 camalot are you talking about black diamond camalots you speak jibberish
Sorry - .75, 1, and 2.

GO


climber1


Feb 6, 2003, 1:15 PM
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I would bring some bigger cams. I also know of some Jtree offwidths that would take a #5 camalot.


climber1


Feb 6, 2003, 1:19 PM
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I would bring some bigger cams. I also know of some Jtree offwidths that would take a #5 camalot.


gypsy


Feb 6, 2003, 1:21 PM
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do you have a guide book? When my boyfriend and I started climbing trad, we started at J.Tree with almost nothing. We would just look in the book for climbs that specified our gear. As we saw other climbs we wanted to do, we'd get gear that targeted those climbs until we had a decent rack. J.Tree has enough short stuff that you can lead trad without much gear (of course, it's always nice to have more, but that shouldn't stop your fun now).


Partner cracklover


Feb 6, 2003, 1:33 PM
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I do have a guide book. I believe it's the Vogel. I'll take another look at it tonight, but my recollection was that very few of the climbs had gear ratings (like protection to 2 inches). That's what you're talking about, right?

GO


Partner cracklover


Feb 6, 2003, 1:39 PM
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climber1, I probably won't be doing off-width climbing. I don't think I've even seen any there. But I DO seem to remember seeing a fist-size crack or two.

If further info is helpful - I'll probably be climbing mostly in the 5.7 - 5.10 range.

GO


climbingbetty22


Feb 6, 2003, 1:42 PM
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I would also like some information about this topic. I'm also going to J-tree soon. From reading the thread I've got a sense of the upper sizes that would be necessary, but how small (in terms of cams)? Will a .75 be sufficient or would you be better to get some smaller? How easy are passive placements at J-tree? Can anyone give just a general suggestion of what gear would be the most useful so I know in what ways my rack might be lacking?


ubotch


Feb 6, 2003, 1:54 PM
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I don't think the smaller cams are necessary. There are plenty of nut placements on a lot of the climbs, I use a lot of passive gear there (because thats what i have) and I always seem to get by ok.


Partner cracklover


Feb 7, 2003, 7:16 AM
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Thanks to all for the feedback! I also glanced through my guidebook and found quite a few routes saying pro to 3 inches. So I put in my order for a size 3 Camalot at REI today.

The double ropes can wait.

GO


alpnclmbr1


Feb 13, 2003, 7:10 PM
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just for general info a #2 camalot is a 3 inch piece


offwidth


Feb 13, 2003, 9:27 PM
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Hmmm...I thought the #3 was just about perfect for a 3" crack, and the #2 was nice around 2" to 2.5". They do overlap though...


valygrl


Feb 14, 2003, 8:00 AM
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Link to the BD site showing cam sizes.


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