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jakeh76
Feb 9, 2003, 10:27 PM
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What would you all add to this rack to beef it up? I am trying to complete my rack. I now have full set of stoppers, hexes 5-11, camolots 1-3, and 00-4 metolius TCU's. I climb a in the new river gorge, and seneca area the most. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm thinking about larger cams. Is it necessary to get half sizes the whole size camolts overlap. What about tri-cams? Thanks.
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uncle_big_green
Feb 9, 2003, 10:54 PM
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You have a small gap between your 4 Metolius and 1 Camalot. I would go for getting a .75 Camalot to cover it. You could also go for a 5 (black) Metolius or a 2 Friend, but I like the BD piece a little better than the 5 Met and you don't have any Friends on your rack (yet). I own all of the above. As far as bigger cams go, get the 3.5 Camalot before you get the 4. I place the 3.5 more than the 4. A 4 Friend is a little lighter and about the same size if you want to get another (and less expensive) brand. If you ever go wide, the 5 and 6 Friends are lighter than the big Camalots and more stable.
I would also recommend getting at least the .5 and 1 tricams and maybe a 1.5. Remember that you can also use these to supplement larger nut sizes.
[ This Message was edited by: uncle_big_green on 2003-02-09 14:55 ]
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ubotch
Feb 9, 2003, 11:52 PM
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Personally I would get another full set of stoppers. I have a set of both Metolius and Black Diamond and find that sometimes one works better than the other in a certain situation. It is nice to have options. It is also almost the same price to get a new cam or a full set of stoppers, which is potentially another 10 or so placements.
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space_monkey
Feb 10, 2003, 12:35 AM
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i second another set of stoppers
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talons05
Feb 10, 2003, 12:42 AM
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For southern trad climbs, tricams are a godsend. They are great for horizontal cracks and pockets, which you find quite often on sandstone and limestone.
Don't waste your time with the larger sized tri-cams.
If you want a big cam, I have found that the Wild Country Tech Friend sizes 5 and 6 are bomber and very stable. I reccommend only buying one #6 and learning to "walk" it for offwidth climbing.
A.W.
A.W.
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calpolyclimber
Feb 10, 2003, 1:06 AM
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Talon- Could you explain this "walking" technique to me? Me and my buddy are planning on climbing South Face in the Needles, and it has a pitch of OW. We are going to have to get at least one monster cam.
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apollodorus
Feb 10, 2003, 1:30 AM
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You push the big cam ahead of you, sort of like a continuous, moving top-rope anchor.
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philbox
Moderator
Feb 10, 2003, 1:44 AM
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Or buy two big cams and use twin ropes and walk each cam alternatively. Total feeling of security on those heinous offwidths which would normally sketch you out.
...Phil...
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jakeh76
Feb 10, 2003, 1:07 PM
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Thanks everyone I appreciate the advice!!
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ebrmusic
Feb 10, 2003, 1:36 PM
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I like this walking thing, saves lots of big gear, but I'd take more placements for security any day.
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jakeh76
Feb 10, 2003, 2:58 PM
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Any good (cheap) places to get aliens?
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calpolyclimber
Feb 10, 2003, 10:23 PM
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Hey thanks guys, that sounds like a great idea. I guess you just have to MAKE SURE you walk it into a good placement, cause you are looking at a nasty fall if it pops.
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just_me
Feb 12, 2003, 6:51 AM
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To get cheap aliens:
http://www.wildernessexchangeunlimited.com/pages/824406/index.htm
These guys sell cosmetcis blems, so you get them cheaper!
[ This Message was edited by: just_me on 2003-02-11 22:52 ]
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jon_dittman
Feb 14, 2003, 1:35 PM
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Blimey, you have about twice as much gear as me and I thought I had completed my rack years ago!
I only have about 20 or so rocks
5 cams in from 0.5 - 3.5 but not every one
If I am climbing pitches over 30m long I might take some hexes (I have 4) and never more than 10 quick draws.
I don't understand taking RP's or micros on a route that is easier than 5.10 unless you know that a certain section is to be protected.
If I were you, I would spend your money on getting out and climbing
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