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venezuela
Feb 10, 2003, 2:46 AM
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Posts: 69
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yesterday was my first lead fall on a nut .....it was pretty exciting....I fell after the crux, 'cause I thought "it's in the bag"....how wrong was I!! good thing I had protected the crux well...the fall was 3 meters, more or less...and actually, I had fun
I had taken lead falls before, on trad, but only on "relojes de arena" (natural pro). The nut held well, I got back on the rock, inspectioned the nut, and finished the rute.
This brings me to my questioned....what's the amallest piece of pro in which you have taken a lead fall?...meaning small nuts, cams, or even little, puny natural pro...which of them have not held??
any story is welcomed...
Diego M.
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blindslap
Feb 10, 2003, 3:23 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 174
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i slid through an offwidth onto a super tipped out cam. It wasn't small but still pretty scary. I also fell on a number four BD stopper. Held fine, but was tough to get out.
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coclimber26
Feb 10, 2003, 3:26 AM
Post #3 of 20
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 928
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#2 nut about a 10ft fall and it held fine. I just put it in to make me feel better about going over a roof, I never expected it to hold anything..I had two pieces backing it up but it held fine.
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stevematthys
Feb 10, 2003, 3:27 AM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2000
Posts: 1248
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00 tech friend
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ricardol
Feb 10, 2003, 5:22 AM
Post #5 of 20
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
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#8 wire -- 3x on the same crux
-- ricardo
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tim
Feb 10, 2003, 5:44 AM
Post #6 of 20
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Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
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#3 BD micronut held a 35 footer
#5 BD micronut held 3x 10' falls in a row
I've been pretty lucky overall in terms of what holds. People sometimes bitch about my protection strategy (I value actual strength and resistance to walking over ease of retrieval) but they're usually not the ones out on lead.
I think the only pieces I've ever actually blown were grey and purple TCUs. Small cams usually suck.
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rrrADAM
Feb 10, 2003, 1:50 PM
Post #7 of 20
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
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40' on a Yellow Alien, and 40+' on a #9 BD Stropper.
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asaph
Feb 10, 2003, 2:12 PM
Post #8 of 20
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 198
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six feet on a bolt hanger, baby! Yeah, I don't have anyone to teach me trad so I still only climb sport.
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asystole
Feb 10, 2003, 2:17 PM
Post #9 of 20
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 35
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35-40 feet on a #2 Nut..... Belyar was proed in with a number 1 and that heled too... now if I could only get my belyar to pull in more slack
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punk
Feb 10, 2003, 5:36 PM
Post #10 of 20
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442
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#1 WC rock, 12' .33 (black) Alian 25'all I can say they do work if placed right
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antimatter
Feb 11, 2003, 6:02 PM
Post #11 of 20
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 140
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Smallest piece - a yellow alien for about a six footer.
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tradklime
Feb 13, 2003, 3:56 AM
Post #12 of 20
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 1235
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About 10 feet on a #3 ball nut 3/4 way in the crack (just enough for the entire ball to contact rock), actually I fell 3 times on it. It felt fine 'cause it was backed up by a #1 RP. Also, lots of good whips on my green alien.
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cragmasterp
Feb 13, 2003, 4:03 AM
Post #13 of 20
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Registered: Feb 2, 2003
Posts: 278
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I have fallen repeatedly on a #1 lowe ball nut while working a project.
Also took a scary whip onto a #0 TCU placed horizontally, which held a 20 footer.
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dirko
Feb 13, 2003, 4:04 AM
Post #14 of 20
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Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 374
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25' on a .5 Camalot with only 2 cams engaged... hooray for slab!
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holmeslovesguinness
Feb 13, 2003, 4:25 AM
Post #15 of 20
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Registered: Oct 10, 2002
Posts: 548
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Probably 10' on a #3BD stopper.
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ontario_guide
Feb 13, 2003, 10:32 PM
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Registered: Nov 29, 2002
Posts: 526
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5 feet on a #1 brassie and guess what, it blew. Luckily I had some stuff in below it.
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camhead
Feb 13, 2003, 10:38 PM
Post #17 of 20
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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30 feet on my partner's #3 stopper.
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venezuela
Feb 14, 2003, 2:56 AM
Post #18 of 20
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Posts: 69
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just by reading some stuff here my face goes
I mean...30+ on a number 2 copperhead!!!.....a fall on a numer 1 brassie
30' falls on a number 3 stopper
30'+ on a number 2 nut!!
I feel like my fall was "stuff for kids"!!!!
But don't worry, I'll catch up with you guys
You guys really know how to place pro!!!!! my compliments!!!
Diego M.
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texplorer
Feb 14, 2003, 5:32 AM
Post #19 of 20
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Registered: Oct 24, 2002
Posts: 199
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I like seeing posts like this. There is too much pansie talk about trad around here sometimes. Trad climbing is fun -place good gear and go for it.
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jon_dittman
Feb 14, 2003, 1:26 PM
Post #20 of 20
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Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 16
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For me - a friend 2 camming on 2 out of 4 cams.
You want to try and obtain the Hard Grit video from the UK where a bloke called Seb Grieve takes multiple lobs on a 5.14x type climb with only 9 RP's wedged behind a loose flake to protect the whole route!
Needless to say he eventually finishes it in fine style, but it kept me on the edge of my seat!
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