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Ice conditions in Utah
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rocknpowda


Jan 10, 2003, 8:35 AM
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Ice conditions in Utah
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This is an ongoing post about the ice conditions around Utah.

As of yesterday (1/8/03), and the last month, the great white icicle in LCC is in good. A lot of water flowing but still good for climbing.

Where have you been climbing?


alpinerocket


Jan 10, 2003, 9:35 AM
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I was on the GWI about a week ago. The conditions were good. That is the only Ice have been on so far that was any good. John


alpinerocket


Jan 12, 2003, 5:13 PM
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I am hitting the GWI on tuesday morning. Any updates on the conditions. John


rocknpowda


Jan 14, 2003, 1:41 PM
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This is probably too late now for Alpinerocket but The GWI on sunday was really nice. I little thin at the very top where you pull up and over by the trees but other than that is was super.


alpinerocket


Jan 21, 2003, 11:09 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I was up there last Tuesday and you were right it was thin on the top, but fun. I may go back on friday. Are there any other recomendations around SLC. John


rocknpowda


Jan 21, 2003, 11:23 AM
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The Great White is all I have been on. Does anyone know how Provo, Santaquin, Maple, or Joe's Valley is?


alpinerocket


Jan 21, 2003, 8:01 PM
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If any other climbs in the area are open I can climb this friday AM. John


mtn_eagle


Jan 22, 2003, 10:49 PM
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I climbed the first 3 pitches of Stiarway to Heaven on saturday. The second pitch required a little bit of low mixed ground but the rest was pretty good ice. The 3rd pitch was stiff WI4 but still had decent protection. The 4th pitch is in but we didn't bother since it's only 15 feet of WI 3 and the 4th pitch hasn't formed at all. Be careful above the 1st pitch, the scree/talus is not frozen down. We witnessed a few near catastrophes. Briadal Veil didn't look to be in very good shape, but we only viewed it from the road.


seeking8a


Jan 24, 2003, 7:11 PM
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I climbed Squash Head and Back-Off today in Santaquin. The first gate is open but the second one is locked (at the bathroom). It was only about a 15 minute walk up the road to the climbs. Both routes were thin but climbable. The hardest part was getting to the bolts for the belays because there was no ice on the sides. It rained on us. Not too many other routes were in. It looked like Automatic control theory was in but did not touch the ground. White Angel and Candlestick were in but we didn't head up to look at them.


alpinerocket


Jan 25, 2003, 12:44 PM
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I was on the GWI yesterday up to the large ledge. It was melting and falling apart fast. the last pitch looked like it could go any time. Hopefully it gets cold after this last system moves through. John


alpinerocket


Jan 29, 2003, 10:55 AM
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Any one have a report on the GWI as of today 01-29?


rocknpowda


Jan 31, 2003, 3:40 PM
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1/31 The BWI is hatin' it right now. there may be enough slush to get up it but just by the skin of your teeth!


rocknpowda


Jan 31, 2003, 3:42 PM
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Is there any ice near Vernal, UT or the surrounding area. somehow they've had a temperature inversion over there and it has only been above freezing for like one or two days in last few months. If there is ice in Utah right now, that is where it would be.


rocknpowda


Feb 7, 2003, 9:39 AM
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Now that it has snowed, the scruffy band is starting to come in FINALLY.

Anyone been to Maple Canyon lately, usually the ice comes in / fattens up after it snows there.

I just got a message from Funk29 in Cedar City and he sais the ice is pretty good down there right now.

What else is in?


mountaingeek


Feb 8, 2003, 11:30 AM
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Anyone been on the GWI recently? Is it back in?


seeking8a


Feb 10, 2003, 7:13 AM
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Stairway is coming back but not in all the way. On Sunday we did White nightmare (got very wet) and did the first pitch of stairway. The second and third pitches are very thin and probably not climbable one ice alone.


rocknpowda


Feb 10, 2003, 9:31 AM
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The GWI is fattening back up.

The left route at the scruffy band is in too. I saw a guy climbing it on Saturday afternoon.


mtn_eagle


Feb 12, 2003, 11:00 PM
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We went to Santquin Canyon on saturday and climbed Squashhead and the first half of Back-off. The lower part of Squashhead was raining and tricky pro, but the rest was great. It was getting dark and too sketchy getting to the anchor for the second pitch on Back-off, so we went up as high as the ropes would go and rapped off a V-thread. The upper part was excellent plastic ice. It didn't look like Candlestick or ACT were touching down, but they may be soon if cold temperatures hold. Nothing on the other side of the canyon was in.

Anyone know anything about Frozen Assets?


leec


Feb 28, 2003, 12:31 PM
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Gwi [In reply to]
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As of last w/e (2/21) GWI was just fine - some water and holes but nothing to worry.
Any info on other areas around the state? Provo/maple?


alpinerocket


Mar 4, 2003, 6:04 PM
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The GWI is still in as of feb 28. Even the last pitch was good. John


nieder


Feb 6, 2009, 11:15 AM
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Re: [rocknpowda] Ice conditions in Utah [In reply to]
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I have created a new site for Utah ice conditions, check it out, please sign up and contribute!

http://iceutah.com/


marauders


Feb 12, 2009, 1:42 PM
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1st pitch of Stairway to Heaven in Provo Canyon. The ice was quite brittle with large, hollow sections underneath the brittle surface. Finding good screw placements was challenging, but overall a really fun morning.


Second half of the 1st pitch.


Pitch 2 and above. We didn't climb any of this.



jahsh


Feb 14, 2009, 9:19 AM
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up in maple things are coming back, only went up to box canyon, going up tomorrow, anyone else?

Rubber Cup Nausea


Yellow Rapture


Skidders (mostly snow on rock)


Running Man


Roadside Couloir


Cobble Cruncher



solitudeclimber


Mar 4, 2009, 8:36 AM
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Iíve been out of town for work, just got back.
Any update on UT Ice conditions?
Thanks,
Jason


jahsh


Mar 4, 2009, 9:04 AM
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Re: [solitudeclimber] Ice conditions in Utah [In reply to]
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Here in Sanpete county it has been shorts and t-shirts, so you can guess that up in maple things are pretty much gone....In fact I went rock climbing up there on sunday and on the way down the canyon I ran a couple laps up the WI3 base of the Dagger (it was still good and fat, but a little on the soft side) everything else was either gone or coming down

There were alot of cars/trucks stuck on the road, the local tow truck's were getting alot of business, so if you're going to drive up come prepared (winch, hi-lift, shovels and a cell phone). The snow isnt that deep, 6-10", but the base is either ice or mud. I recommend parking at the end of the pavement or in a dirt lot on the right 100 yards up from there and hiking in. It is only 1.5 miles to the left fork.

What about LOGAN CANYON? anyone been up there?

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