Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
ice climbing on aid routes...
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skywalker


Feb 10, 2003, 10:47 PM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 52

ice climbing on aid routes...
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Could one could climb say the Dunn-Westbay on Longs peak or the Sea of Dreams in summer with Sportiva' megas and sweet ice axes? I was dreaming of this but because I fear falling with those things in my hands I probably won't do this but I can see the possibilities. Any objections? I've heard of this in the Fishers and I can see where it can help.


flamer


Feb 11, 2003, 12:20 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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ice climbing on aid routes... [In reply to]
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Generally this is kind'a frowned upon, on rock routes. The stuff that was done in the fishers(Pete Takeda and Duane Raliegh?) was not really A traditional use of the tools. In otherwords (and I could be wrong) they were tying off axe's and tossing them grappeling hook style then jugging the rope. They did do some first ascents right outside of Grand Junction on the extremmely loose and $#!&ty little towers you can see right off of I-70. On these they used full on Ice Axe and crampon set ups. They didn't recomend any of these "climbs".
josh


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