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johnhenry
Feb 10, 2003, 3:44 AM
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Recent reports of unheld falls with the grigri has caused me to consider other methods/devices for solo wall climbing.
I rule out any device that does not hold an inverted fall. To me, these are limited at best.
I have been considering the Yates Rocker which seems to be very multi-purpose, indeed. It is an ascender, belay device, and solo-aid device.
You can find it here:
http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/hardware/rocker.htm#1
What are your opinions? Or better still, what is opinion of someone who has tried it?
Right On,
john
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jerrygarcia
Feb 10, 2003, 3:58 AM
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Quote:
Recent reports of unheld falls with the grigri
Link please?
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onelung
Feb 10, 2003, 4:32 AM
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Yea thats news.....Sorry no feedback on Yates but I am interested in gri gri failures. SO far mine bats 100% but a knot every 10, 20 ft has given me a bit more security, even though it has never slipped to the knot.
Again sorry its your thread but thats pretty interesting news.
Ho'omau,
Bill
Oh and I'll climb with you anytime on Oahu? Just dont make it to Tokyo that much anymore.
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topher
Feb 10, 2003, 5:01 AM
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there was that britsh guy that hade his binner that was atached to his gri gri break, but i ahve never heard of any gri gri ever failing, only biners. also with any solo device a back up knot is a must!!!
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johnhenry
Feb 10, 2003, 9:05 AM
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Here is one link with Twrock describing a non-held Grigri fall:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?mode=viewtopic&topic=17407&forum=19&start=60
Hey Amigo (twrock), was this the fall that took place on the Prow???
I have also read other similar accounts. (By the way, if the beaner fails due to cross-loading, as it did for the very lucky Mrhardgrit, then perhaps the system has a weak point.)
But I am not interested in the topic of Grigri soloing here but in use of this new Yates device...
Any first hand users (fallers)?
John
[ This Message was edited by: johnhenry on 2003-02-10 01:07 ]
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twrock
Feb 10, 2003, 11:43 AM
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[rant] I AM SICK OF THIS SYSTEM LOGGING ME OUT EVERY TIME I CLICK A LINK (OR EVERY 30 SECONDS, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST). [/rant]
Yes, that was a fall on the Prow. In the end it turned out to be not too bad of a fall. I have no idea why it didn't lock. The next fall locked up fine (same pitch higher up). (BTW, I "discovered" that micro nuts don't stick very well in the bottom of pin scars, even if they look pretty good; YMMV.) I was using a DMM Belay Master biner which should help with the potential for crossloading.
And people, always, always, always tie a backup knot!
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flamer
Feb 11, 2003, 8:24 PM
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I checked out the rocker at the Ouray Ice fest. It looked pretty sweet. I spoke with John Yates about it a little and he seems to have full faith in it. I'll be curious to hear more about this intriguing little device.
josh
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johnhenry
Feb 12, 2003, 7:02 AM
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Can you describe how you lower a climber with this device? Any other details? Thanks, john
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spiffdog
Feb 12, 2003, 9:19 PM
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The point about biners is really quite simple. Any "solo" device that connects with a biner is bad. Period. That's why real solo devices, designed as such, use a sling to connect to the harness. Solo-Aid. Done.
Spiff
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paulc
Feb 12, 2003, 9:32 PM
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I had a thread under gear heads regarding the use of the rocker for simul-climbing but have not heard directly from anyone who has used it. I don't want to order one without having some idea of it will work or what as they cost like 150 CDN, NCNR.
Link:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=21195&forum=40&6
Also on the SEC message board. You might try either rec.climbing or super topo, or perhaps I will try them.
Paul
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aid312
Feb 13, 2003, 12:20 AM
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I got my rocker about two weeks ago. I have not tried it outside yet but have played around with it and it seems to feed very smooth. I have the Solo Aid as well and this seems to be much faster and moves up the rope with no effort at all.
Brett
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paulc
Feb 13, 2003, 12:51 AM
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Have you had a chance to take falls with it? Supposedly it has a dynamic capability to limit the peak forces in a fall to the low single KN, depending on rope diameter and other factors, which also determine how far the slippage is in distance, but I think it has to be less than 3 feet for OSHA(?) regs.
Anyhow, have you tried the locking mode, where it locks on to the rope? How does that work? Can you post or email pics regarding the inside cam details and so on?
Thanks
Paul
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johnhenry
Nov 20, 2003, 7:48 AM
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Greeting folks! Been a while. I am hunkered down in a Zen training temple in Tokyo and my superiors sicked the Net Nanny on RC.com!!!
I guess they felt it wasn't condusive to my Buddhist training ( and they are probably right). Anyhow, I hope all is well with everyone.
I was wondering if another Yos. season has brought more info in my above question.
rock on,
john
"the buddha way is inconeivable, but I vow to attain it!"
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spike
Nov 20, 2003, 3:17 PM
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Hi JohnHenry,
Thanks for the coffee last year at the base of Bermuda Dunes, it was great. I was also looking for a backup device for my Gri Gri and was thinking about the Rocker. I e-mailed YATES and asked them, the feed back was that it was NOT a device they would recommed as a solo aid tool. I will see if I can find the e-mail. I trust my Gri Gri, especially with a backup knot.
Richard / SPIKE
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uglyclimber
Nov 20, 2003, 3:57 PM
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I haven't tried the yates, but some information.
http://www.ropesafety.com/site/technique/RA%20Testing%20Paper.pdf
I use a Silent Partner myself, and a the Petzl Basic on TR
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