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bigmatt
Feb 14, 2003, 5:51 PM
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In many guidebooks and online databases, when referring to trad climbs, it will say, for example, 'Pro to 2"'. I know they're talking about protection up to two inches, but what exactly does that mean? If we're talking about a cam, is that when it's fully extended or when it's partially extended in wherever it happens to be? What about stoppers?
[ This Message was edited by: bigmatt on 2003-02-14 10:00 ]
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under_score
Feb 14, 2003, 5:54 PM
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i'm not trad yet (not enough $), but i'm guessing protection to size 2 cams/hexes...
~eric
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mcfoley
Feb 14, 2003, 5:56 PM
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It means carry AN ASSORTMENT OF PROTECTION in SMALL SIZES ALL THE WAY UP TO 2 INCHES!!!
mf
PS I hope that helped...if your not sure what "pro" means then it really doesn't matter what size they suggest...But I think your question was about the " Pro to ???"
edited for the PS
[ This Message was edited by: mcfoley on 2003-02-14 09:59 ]
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under_score
Feb 14, 2003, 5:59 PM
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well there ya go...
~eric
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mcfoley
Feb 14, 2003, 6:11 PM
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CONTD...
WITH REGARD TO cams OR ANY active gear they are referring to the WORKING RANGE or OPERATIONAL RANGE of the piece!!!
mf
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vegastradguy
Feb 14, 2003, 6:13 PM
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it can depend. more often that "Pro to 2" " i see stuff like: Gear to #3 camalot, or Pro to #4 friend...so, you sort of translate that to your own gear and gear up accordingly.
If it says gear to 2", then bring whatever you have up to that size, plus maybe something a little bigger, just in case.
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calpolyclimber
Feb 14, 2003, 6:35 PM
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They are saying that the crack will be up to 2 inches. You pick what you want to put in it.
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texplorer
Feb 14, 2003, 7:29 PM
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I agree with calpoly. I usually even take one piece larger than what they recommend to because inevitably you'll need it.
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kalcario
Feb 14, 2003, 7:31 PM
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it means you can only get pro for the first 2 inches of the climb
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fitz
Feb 14, 2003, 9:48 PM
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Always take pro recommendations with a grain of salt. A lot depends on the protection style of the person making the recommendation.
FWIW, the www.supertopo.com guides all contain pretty specific gear recommendations for routes, along with a pretty good gear/sizing chart.
But again, when in doubt, bring more than you need - particularly when you are learning. You can always have your second carry gear you know you don't need for a given pitch.
-jjf
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rprp
Feb 17, 2003, 9:23 PM
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In the Reid Yosemite book, "pro to 3 inches" is often a generic default when there isn't more detailed advice.
And "pro to 3 1/2 inches" is often a code word meaning that there is an offwidth or squeeze chimney. Funny how much bigger a half inch can get!
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