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vicum
Feb 17, 2003, 6:44 PM
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I'm from oklahoma. I'm going to Texas, probably this weekend. We want to go do steep limestone sport routes. Where is a good area to go? We're looking for routes in the 5.11 range. Maybe easy 5.12. Thanks.
Arnold
(edited for clarity)
[ This Message was edited by: vicum on 2003-02-17 10:47 ]
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holmeslovesguinness
Feb 17, 2003, 7:00 PM
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Look in the route db under south central texas. The greenbelt in Austin and Reimer's Ranch are two good places to go.
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texasclimber
Feb 17, 2003, 7:05 PM
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Reimers has some good limestone. At the opening to the crag there is a cave with a huge roof. Those routes are rated starting at 11b. There are some other really good routes further back also for steep limestone. My favorite route is T-roofic(5.10+) and has a nice over hang. Look at pics in the db for some ideas of what to expect! If you need more help, PM me.
Oh yah, check out www.texasclimbers.com for nearly all route topos.
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lox
Feb 17, 2003, 7:23 PM
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Screw sportclimbing.
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moeman
Feb 17, 2003, 7:30 PM
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Holy Sh@t where is that? How far back does than cave go- you cant see because it is dark. How long is it?
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lox
Feb 17, 2003, 7:38 PM
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The way way back start is about 30 feet back in the cave. Two full span dynos ust off teh ground lead you to the way back start. The way back is a brutal crimp sequence with toecam dropkness to a couple of jugs... where you cut your feet and core up to not hit dirt.
From that point, there are a few options to exit, but if you 've come from the way way back... omg. Nothing is easy.
And there is a crack which runs the entire length of the mouth of the cave.
Check out Centex 2wo over at www.bloodyflapper.com
RAd.
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easysteve
Feb 17, 2003, 8:28 PM
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Easy .12? Hmmm...
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camhead
Feb 17, 2003, 8:43 PM
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dude, more like, "where is it not steep in Texas?"
if you are from Oklahoma and don't really want to make the commute all the way to Austin, check out Paradise on the Brazos.
New routes going in all the time, and the rock is becoming cleaner. As of right now, there are two routes that would be considered "steep"– one is in the 5.11 range, and the other is 5.12b. In addition, there are tons of vertical (but short) routes in the 5.10 range, plus about half a dozen good boulder problems. PM me for more info.
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lox
Feb 17, 2003, 8:45 PM
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Easy 12 = tunnel vision on the greenbelt or liposuction at remiers.
v5 at Rogers Park will OWN YOU.
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texasclimbers
Feb 17, 2003, 8:52 PM
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Tunnel Vision (5.12-)
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texasclimbers
Feb 17, 2003, 8:54 PM
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Let Them Eat Flake, Reimer's (5.12-)
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lox
Feb 17, 2003, 9:02 PM
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GRRRRRRRRRRRRRrrrr.
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xanx
Feb 17, 2003, 9:15 PM
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awe and i wanted to tel them about the secret cave
mike
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lox
Feb 17, 2003, 9:16 PM
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There is no secret... just difficult prohibitive.
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jds100
Feb 17, 2003, 9:24 PM
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[small]This topic was moved to the US - South forum by jds100[/small]
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vicum
Feb 18, 2003, 2:14 PM
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Thanks for all the replies guys. By "easy" 5.12, well for me anyway, some routes are easier than others, even with the same grade :).
We'll probably end up going to the green belt, maybe reimers. I've heard that the bolts at reimers are sometimes of the home depot variety. Is this true? Any thoughts? Thanks~Arnold
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lox
Feb 18, 2003, 3:02 PM
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Thoughts:
Sportclimbing in Austin is short, dirty and uninspiring.
Were you to want a taste of great quality limestone without glue or drilled holds, you should check out Roger's Park boldering.
That is all.
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spankity_spank
Feb 24, 2003, 7:24 PM
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If you want steep sport climbing, go to Morgans Point or Cen-Tex Cave. Closer than Austin. Just be prepared for a spanking. Warm up routes are 11a.
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mother_sheep
Feb 24, 2003, 7:43 PM
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How's the climbing in Palo Dura? I may have to drop my sons off in Amarillo next month so I'll probably end up in the park to at least hike if nothing else. I'd rather climb though.
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texasclimbers
Feb 24, 2003, 8:02 PM
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In reply to: I've heard that the bolts at reimers are sometimes of the home depot variety. Is this true? Any thoughts? Thanks~Arnold
Not true. Some of the original routes were bolted with some very strange hardware but most have been retro'ed. Central Texas Mountaineers maintains the hardware and have been very active in recent years to replace bad bolts.
Reimer's is a better destination crag. The greenbelt is not very aesthetic climbing. It is a good place to go if you are in austin and only have half a day to climb on a rope. If you are going to climb all day Reimer's will have a much more climbing to offer. However, reimer's is closed Mon - Wed.
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lox
Mar 4, 2003, 8:48 PM
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Sportclimbin' freaks.
Top something out. Go to Beggars Tomb.
And there is no climbing in Palo Duro. If people tell you otherwise, don't believe them.
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fckn_fred
Apr 3, 2003, 9:47 PM
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In reply to: Thoughts: Sportclimbing in Austin is short, dirty and uninspiring. Were you to want a taste of great quality limestone without glue or drilled holds, you should check out Roger's Park boldering. That is all.
i know yall don't wanna...
but LISTEN TO LOX on this one...
come to TEXAS... but leave the CHUFF at home...
you will love it when you get here....
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timstich
Apr 15, 2003, 1:27 PM
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In reply to: Tunnel Vision (5.12-)
That's Pete Bishop, probably the nicest hardman in the Austin area. He and his buddies will run laps on New Wall on Thursdays, doing the same 5.11s one after another. If you ever need Greenbelt/Reimer's beta, Pete's your man.
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dizz22
Mar 18, 2005, 10:43 PM
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If you would look a little harder you would find out that there is planty of places to climb and bolder in palo duro canyon.
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