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sycamore
Feb 18, 2003, 9:27 PM
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Registered: Dec 26, 2002
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So I've got stoppers and a couple tri-cams, and I feel it's finally time to do the SLCD thing. I'm currently planning on getting the three Splitter 4-cams and Camalots 1-3.5, which would give me a range of .75"-4". I'll be using these for toprope anchors, mixed routes, and eventually full on trad. My question is this: starting out, is it better to have cams that cover a full range and fill more in later, or is it better to concentrate first on the small-mid cams (that'll probably get used more) and get larger stuff as necessary?
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easysteve
Feb 18, 2003, 9:36 PM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2002
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My first cam was an Acme cam, don't know the name of it, but it cost me 29.99. I liked it, so I bought 5 more, of near equal sizes. I bought one more a little later, a bigger one, and was never using it on any routes. I was finally anxious to use it, so I found an offwidth that it fit into okay, but the problem was, I only had one, so I couldn't do the whole route, becuase all my other cams didn't fit, in fact, that was the only peice protection I had that would fit that crack. I ended up deciding that it is my favorite route, so I bought more bigger cams. I guess what I'm trying to say is, get them as needed, but you'll never know when you have the cash for pro for the route you want to climb. So I'd just buy a set, and once you're out using them, you'll know what you need more of, so really it doesn't even matter what you get, becuase in the long run, you'll end up getting a bunch.
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jerryderl
Feb 18, 2003, 9:53 PM
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Registered: Apr 5, 2002
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Buy all of them
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aarong
Feb 18, 2003, 10:11 PM
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I would say it depends on the area you plan on spending most of your time climbing at. Look at some of the routes that you will be setting up for TR or some of the routes that you aspire to lead - base your gear selection and cam sizing on that. Camalots are great because of they overlap the sizes of other cams (.75 camalot is my favorite size, well, that and the #3). I would say shoot for midsized to large cams to start with.
And don't make the mistake of buying the cheapest cams out there just because they are cheap - buy quality stuff - & you want it to last a while.
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vegastradguy
Feb 18, 2003, 10:18 PM
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I would also be careful about the quantity you buy at one time. I bought 5 to start off with and it took me a while to learn what the best placement is for each piece. I still fumble a bit with the .5 & .75 camalots, but I'm getting better.
Also, dont worry so much about getting splitter cams (although I would suggest Aliens as an alternative) but getting the #1, #2, & #3 BD Camalots would be a great idea, and maybe the .5 & .75 as well. That will give you a nice range of cams to start using and getting a feel for cams, and then you can start deciding what your next purchase will be. Wild Country or Metolius are also excellent cams, if you dont want to pay for the BD's.
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benkiessel
Feb 18, 2003, 10:24 PM
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Registered: Sep 23, 2002
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buy mid ranged cams first then move out, where needed. buy quality like camalots and aliens. if you buy s#itty ones now you will not use them later and it will have been a waste of money. but that's just my opinion.
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tradklime
Feb 19, 2003, 12:02 AM
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My opinion range, range=practicality.
I think a full range from 1/3 in. to 4 in. would be a great set, and will get you most places that you want to go. Later you will probably double up on the 3/4 to 2 in sizes.
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sycamore
Feb 19, 2003, 2:09 AM
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Registered: Dec 26, 2002
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Thanks for the responses- I appreciate it. I admit, I'm thinking about the Splitters solely because I think they look awesome (and they're a little cheaper than the similar sized camalots). I know they haven't really stood the test of time yet. I'm pretty much set on the Camalots, and I'll look into the Aliens- I know they're nice.
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fitz
Feb 19, 2003, 5:06 AM
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
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Depends on where you are, but it sounds like you'd get the most mileage out of 4 cams, a BD .75, 1, 2, and 3 (or equiv.) The bigger cams (3.5 - 5) are less bomber, harder to place, expensive, and heavy. When you need them, they are great, but for your top rope anchors sling a boulder or tree instead of a stuffing a big cam in a flaring crack.
Small cams also are a bit tricky to place. You are probably better off honing your nutcraft until your trad climbing has gotten close to your personal limit. By then, you'll have a better idea on what smaller cams you will get the most mileage out of. For example, .5 and up, I'm BD all the way, but below that, like many climbers, I use a mix of brands that works well for me.
If you are dying to buy more cams right away, I'd double up the .75, 1, and 2. You are going to want more than one piece in your top rope anchors, and where there is one good placement in this range, there is usually another right next to it. You'll also probably want to be doubled up in this range when you start multipitch climbing.
-jjf
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