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airmaster
Feb 20, 2003, 2:06 AM
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I have been climbing toprope routes for a little over a year now, and I think I want to try some lead climbing. I know of a short sport route near by and I was thinking about climbing it. I just want to know if i have the right idea down. I will begin climbing and place my quickdraws into the bolts that are already there, and be belayed by someone on the ground. After I make it to the top, I will have to down climb in order to remove all of my quickdraws. Is this how it works, or is there a way to retrieve my quickdraws without having to down climb?
Thanks
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petsfed
Feb 20, 2003, 2:18 AM
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There's a method of lowering off that is not dissimilar to when one lowers off from a top rope.
Go here, click on Vertical Sports, then under Activities click on Climb Single-Pitchand click on Rappel/Abseil. This will open a new window. In that new window, click on Lowering: Arranging a lower-off without untying from the rope. This will display instructions on how to lower off safely without dieing. As to retrieving the draws whilst lowering, others have more experience than I on the subject.
Edit:
To fix link and instructions.
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wrbill
Feb 20, 2003, 2:47 AM
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If you can get to the top, just like doing a top rope set-up. Then go up and set-up a anchor just as if you were going to do top rope, but do not clip your rope in. You then do the sport lead. When you get to the top clip your rope in as if you were top roping. As your belayer lowers you get your quickdraws. I unclip from the bolt then clip to my gear loops then unclip from the rope. That is to make sure that I do not drop my quickdraws. This is one way I do it.
Have fun and climb on. :D
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limittester
Feb 20, 2003, 3:57 AM
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I know where I climb there are chains or a pair of big smooth hangers at the top of the pitch or route. If you are planning to use a pulley then try to equalize the wieght between the anchors. I check the condition of the chains to see if they are worn, if they look good then I run the rope through the chains (AFTER I CLIP INTO THE CHAINS). You can be belayed back down or I usually repel down. If you repel down 1) tie the rope off so that it will not fall. 2) pull the draw side of the rope through the draws, this makes it easier to unclip ie. you don't have to reach down to unlip. 3) always clip the rope end of the draw to your sling or gear loop before taking it off of the rock. I recomend that you watch someone else lead and really watch how they clip in draws, this is very important, sooner or later you will take a lead fall. Good luck, always climb safe but hard.
Don
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limittester
Feb 20, 2003, 3:58 AM
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I know where I climb there are chains or a pair of big smooth hangers at the top of the pitch or route. If you are planning to use a pulley then try to equalize the wieght between the anchors. I check the condition of the chains to see if they are worn, if they look good then I run the rope through the chains (AFTER I CLIP INTO THE CHAINS). You can be belayed back down or I usually repel down. If you repel down 1) tie the rope off so that it will not fall. 2) pull the draw side of the rope through the draws, this makes it easier to unclip ie. you don't have to reach down to unlip. 3) always clip the rope end of the draw to your sling or gear loop before taking it off of the rock. I recomend that you watch someone else lead and really watch how they clip in draws, this is very important, sooner or later you will take a lead fall. Good luck, always climb safe but hard.
Don
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jt512
Feb 20, 2003, 5:08 AM
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In reply to: Is this how it works...
How it works is, you go out with someone experienced and he/she shows you what to do, and you don't lead climb on your own until you *know* you can do so safely.
-Jay
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climbsomething
Feb 20, 2003, 5:42 AM
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In reply to: After I make it to the top, I will have to down climb in order to remove all of my quickdraws. Is this how it works, or is there a way to retrieve my quickdraws without having to down climb?
Just lower and have your second remove them on his way up, if you don't feel like getting them yourself. Otherwise, you can have your partner stop you at every draw while you're lowering, and pull them off yourself, or retrieve them on repel- er, rappel.
You also don't indicate any knowledge on how to set the anchor. On sport climbs, it's not rocket science, but critical nonetheless.
In reply to: If you can get to the top, just like doing a top rope set-up. Then go up and set-up a anchor just as if you were going to do top rope, but do not clip your rope in. You then do the sport lead. When you get to the top clip your rope in as if you were top roping.
Huh?
In reply to: If you are planning to use a pulley then try to equalize the wieght between the anchors.
And "equalizing the weight" on a sport anchor isn't complex. We're not talking a multi-piece anchor made out of cams and nuts if this is indeed a "sport climbing area."
In reply to: I check the condition of the chains to see if they are worn, if they look good then I run the rope through the chains
Assuming you're not going to run all your buddies up this as a TR hangdog fest, right? This is just you climbing it, leading and then stripping the route/pulling the rope when you're done.
But back to airmaster. Find an experienced climber and have him/her teach you how to lead. That is the BEST way, period.
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duskerhu
Feb 20, 2003, 5:47 AM
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Whew! Thank you jt... petsfed had a good idea sending him to Petzl but that explanation SUCKED!
And consequently, so did those that followed. Do you people read what you wrote before you post it???
If you don't know what you're doing, get someone to take you out...
duskerhu
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boulderingmadman
Feb 20, 2003, 7:34 AM
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whatever the fuck you do, do not listen to anyone who has posted a reply to this topic with the exception of jt512...they are gonna get you killed!!
petsfed tried, though the link fairly sucked if you truly dont know already whats going on...
you need to learn about backclipping, z-clipping, setting anchors, cleaning the routes, and clipping properly before you even think about leading a climb...sport or otherwise...
find someone experienced and willing to show you how to do these things properly or we will all be reading about your "unfortunate accident" in the papers...
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flynnypek
Feb 20, 2003, 7:52 PM
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Lead climb on the gym first with someone experienced watching you. I don't totally agree with boulderman... if you know the basics and/or can learn them through a book or an experienced person, and try them on relatively safety places. I think you will be all right...
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mcfoley
Feb 20, 2003, 8:05 PM
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Hit the Gym or a well populated crag and watch!!! and Watch..... Ask numerous questions...!!!! then go with some people who lead and can walk you through "it"...start on easy stuff and get the concept down!!!
Then go off on your own...safely!!!
mf
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petsfed
Feb 20, 2003, 8:05 PM
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I tried, but looks like I failed on the second attempt too. So, like Jay said, find somebody who can explain it to you in the flesh.
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ricardol
Feb 20, 2003, 8:09 PM
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In reply to: .... I check the condition of the chains to see if they are worn, if they look good then I run the rope through the chains (AFTER I CLIP INTO THE CHAINS). You can be belayed back down or I usually repel down. ..
.. woah! -- you gave 1 good piece of advice, and a bad piece ..
If the top of the climb has chains..
1 - yes, do check the condition of the chains.
2a - if you plan to rappel .. (not repel) .. off the route, then yes, run your rope through the chains and rappel ..
2b - if you plan to be belayed back down, DONT RUN YOUR ROPE THROUGH THE CHAINS! .. this causes the chain links (quicklinks or whatever is at the end of the chain) to wear down rapidly, and need to be replaced (costing someone some money, and its a safety problem) .. if you plan to be lowered back down, then place 2 draws on the anchors (the bolts not the chains!) with the biners that you clip your rope into in an opposing position. then clip your rope through the 2 draws, and get belayed down.
-- some anchors will be spaced too far apart for 2 draws to work, then you will need to use a longer sling or a cordallete, or some webbing to build an anchor.
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you can clean your own route when you are belayed down (or on rappel), or you can send a buddy up to clean the route while he/she is on toprope.
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I think though that you need to learn alot about how to lead safely before you try it. read some books, read some websites, take a course at the gym, then go for it.
-- ricardo
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kman
Feb 21, 2003, 3:11 AM
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:shock: Lot of bad info in this thread. There were only 2 good posts, duskerhu's and Jt's.
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gdonde
Feb 21, 2003, 3:37 AM
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go to the gym and take a course, or go out with somone who knows what they are doing and get them to teach you,,, its your life your playing with
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jt512
Feb 21, 2003, 3:38 AM
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This thread is FUBAR. I think the best thing that can come out of it is that original poster becomes so confused that he seeks competent instruction.
-Jay
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