Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Leaning Tower
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


bigwallben


Feb 21, 2003, 5:19 PM
Post #1 of 8 (1902 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 23, 2002
Posts: 17

Leaning Tower
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I had a thought last night and wondered if anybody had done it. Last time I did leaning tower we took a long time getting gear across the 4th class ledges (well not that long but longer then I would have liked). Now that I'm going back for Wet Denim Daydream it came to me. Has anybody hauled up the slabs right to the start of the climb. any better? Also, any beta for the route?


Thanks

Ben


epic_ed


Feb 21, 2003, 7:31 PM
Post #2 of 8 (1902 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Leaning Tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The haul from the base to the start? Interesting thought. I'm fairly certain it's about 400 feet, though. Can't imagine saving any time by rigging that.

WDD was my first wall last May. Incredible experience! The pitch above Awahanee is the crux. Some spooky free moves around to the left of the ledge to start, and then up a left-leaning THIN seam for about 80 feet. My partner lead all the hairy stuff on the route including this pitch. He felt it was every bit of A3+ because of the nasty fall potential. That seam had 8-10 fixed heads -- all of them small and manky. He didn't think any of them would hold a fall. The only other gear he got in on that stretch were two peckers. He finally got a solid stopper in at the corner of the little roof that ends that seam. If he would have pulled any piece on that pitch before the nut, he would have ripped to the ledge. Word is Todd Skinner cleaned all of the fixed gear last fall and MAY have placed a couple of bolts on that pitch in an attempt to free it. No one was able to verify/deny that rumor on another climbing forum.

Be VERY careful with the loose block/imperial starship looking/wedge thing near the top of p7. Word is there are bat hook holes on left side of the wall that lets you get around it, but my buddy didn't see them and had to finese and pray his way through.

The last pitch is one of the most incredible things I've ever done. One hell of an ending to a climb with that 25 foot roof. The roof takes great gear along with two fixed pins and goes at C2 rather than C3. Bring your Aliens.

There are several trip reports for WDD if you do a google search. Also search this forum and supertopo.com -- I know I've discussed this before, but can't remember where.

Have fun!

Ed
BTW -- I'm never doing that damn 4th class traverse to the start of the route again.


epic_ed


Feb 21, 2003, 7:37 PM
Post #3 of 8 (1902 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Leaning Tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

See here about important beta for the false belay at the end of p7.

http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yblewetd


copperhead


Feb 21, 2003, 11:48 PM
Post #4 of 8 (1902 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 668

Leaning Tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Skip the belay on pitch 7 (in SuperTopo guide) and continue to ledge with 2 new bolts (60m pitch). Skip belay 8 and climb to summit ledge. This means that you can do the entire route in 6 pitches. I chopped the chicken bolt on the pitch above Ahwahnee Ledge; don’t know what Skinner has done since. Good route. Lots of air. Have fun.


spiffdog


Feb 23, 2003, 8:38 AM
Post #5 of 8 (1902 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 18, 2002
Posts: 59

Leaning Tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Peckers? You shouldn't need to do any nailing on the route, provided you have the proper heading tools for the fifth pitch (small blunted punch). I would also just reiterate the warning about the loose rock on the fifth pitch, I almost levered off a small refrigerator onto Awahnee by weighting an Alien.

Spiff


copperhead


Feb 23, 2003, 9:09 AM
Post #6 of 8 (1902 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 668

Leaning Tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Beaks are better than Peckers. It is better to nail than place heads. I placed a bunch of Beaks on that pitch. Don’t place any gear in the loose choss at the beginning of the pitch. A blunt 5/8” chisel works the best for placing heads.

I should have chopped the temporary belay bolts between the loose choss and the splitter…


cantwinifyoudontplay2003


Mar 1, 2003, 2:03 AM
Post #7 of 8 (1902 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 24, 2003
Posts: 75

Leaning Tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Can't beat the ledge.. fastest and best way to get the pig to the base.....Very good route..... Let us know.... CLIMB ON.
climb in style or fly a mile......


punk


Mar 1, 2003, 7:40 AM
Post #8 of 8 (1902 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442

Leaning Tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The way we did that was, one of us went first through the “catwalk” trailing the haul line that was tied in the middle with 8 on bight. one end went to the leader and the other to the second, while the center was clipped to the haulbags. once the leader was at the tree on the other end of the cat walk, we rigged a hauling pulley and the second lowered the bags to the leader to haul. the leader start hauling the bags while the second made his way to him through the catwalk. (we used 200' static line)
We didn’t use any hammering and also all the parties ahead of us and after us!!!!
tip:
Get Alien hybrids full set, WC offset up to 2.5 (5), and the 2 regular Leeper cam-hooks are pretty much mandatory… (unless u would like to age early) also pointed cliffhanger came very handy on it
If u are to rappel the route for some reason, don’t do a straight rappel but rather backtrack your placement and bolt ladder. so u wont find yourself suspended in the midair, 60’ away from the wall with 400’ drop like a spider and wait for someone to reel u in or jug back up 200’.(yes it happened to us… :shock: )
:wink: :lol:


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook