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enigma
Feb 23, 2003, 10:52 AM
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Is it true that bouldering requires more strength and less endurance than climbing, mostly routes?? Why do people who mostly boulder seem to be averse to climbing routes??Any thoughts?? :?:
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todrick
Feb 23, 2003, 11:54 AM
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for me its a philosophy thing... i can sit and work a single boulder problem all day(hell all year if its a biggie)
Analyze the moves, give it a shot... fall... learn(Repeat)
this problem may consist of only 10 or so moves... but it is the puzzle, the process of beating the rock at its own game if you will.
Routes are a different animal, while a route may be fairly difficult, much of that rating comes from endurance issues... what i can pull on a boulder problem, would be impossible for me to pull after climbing 20-30 minutes up a route to reach that problem...
Bouldering to me cuts out all the BS... No Rope, No Harness, No Pro, No wasted Motion. Just Me, My Shoes, The Rock and The Crux...
I just realized i could sit here and type the same thing a million times in a million different ways, but in the end it will all come down to the first line i typed, it depends on the type of person, and the type of Physical and Mental Challenges they are after...
Hope this Helped
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greatgarbanzo
Feb 23, 2003, 1:59 PM
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For me bouldering is simply, a diferent thing. Is simpler.
No gear, no concerns (trad climbing...), no nothing... just climbing.
A boulder can be found almost anywhere, a route instead is not allways common to see around.
I mostly boulder for those reasons, allthough I have to admit that if I had a multipitch wall filled with cracks all the sizes, bottom to top I wont pay much attention to boulders around.
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dbrayack
Feb 23, 2003, 3:00 PM
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Bouldering is very power oriented, and for the most part, requires a lot less technique. The beginner climber prefers bouldering because he or she can train strength fairly easily. One thing about bouldering is that you can get a good rest on the ground between tries. Now on climbing, you have to have very smart, mental game....you have to use your head a lot, find good rests, do moves very efficiently. I notice that a lot of dudes who are new kick my ass on hard boulder problems, but really fall by the wayside when it comes to routes....I think a lot of it is Enduro, but more over, it takes a lot more time to be a good climber than a good boulderer
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itsreachyman
Feb 23, 2003, 3:09 PM
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I LOVE bouldering but mostly I think it's an ADHD thing! :lol:
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micronut
Feb 23, 2003, 3:32 PM
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I had to devolp a certain level of strength and skill before I started to really enjoy bouldering. I had to feel confident off the deck, and be able to pull off harder moves. I don't think you can really enjoy bouldering unless you can pull 5.11 moves.
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wyclimber
Feb 23, 2003, 4:37 PM
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In answer to the original question - Yes - typically Bouldering does require more strength than route climbing.
An explosive, balls-to-the-wall type strength, even in the most subtle moves. Route climbing may feel like that some times but it is usually because your tired by the time you get to the 'business' part of the route.
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rockfax
Feb 23, 2003, 5:06 PM
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In reply to: Why do people who mostly boulder seem to be averse to climbing routes??
I don't think that they do. Most climbers I know do both.
There is a minority in either camp who spray endlessly and negatively about other climbing disciplines. They are best ignored.
Mick
www.rockfax.com
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lox
Feb 23, 2003, 5:09 PM
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In reply to: Bouldering is very power oriented, and for the most part, requires a lot less technique.
Wow that's freakin' stupid.
The only thing I enjoy about routes is cruxes and topouts.
So I only climb cruxes to topouts.
:)
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curt
Feb 23, 2003, 6:22 PM
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Although it pains me greatly each time I say it, I again find myself in agreement with Lox.
Bouldering requires both strength AND a high degree of technique--if you plan to succeed. The only possible thing required on longer routes that is perhaps not applicable to bouldering is working out rests--and of course gear placement.
Curt
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curt
Feb 23, 2003, 6:23 PM
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Although it pains me greatly each time I say it, I again find myself in agreement with Lox.
Bouldering requires both strength AND a high degree of technique--if you plan to succeed. The only possible thing required on longer routes that is perhaps not applicable to bouldering is working out rests--and of course gear placement.
Curt
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ikefromla
Feb 23, 2003, 6:35 PM
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mr ryan said it best. i know close to zero climbers that only climb routes and refuse to boulder, or the other way around.
personally, i love both, though i prefer sport climbing to bouldering. it is a perfect combination of technique, endurance, power, and efficiency. i hear from people all the time that you don't get as powerful moves climbing routes at your limit as boulder problems at your limit. that's a valid argument, but then wouldn't you just want to improve your endurance so you can climb routes with more powerful moves? i mean, how many people do you think could boulder the crux of Realization?
just a thought
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xanx
Feb 23, 2003, 7:15 PM
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i gotta say i like Lox's response - bouldering is "condensed route climbing" - take the best part (the crux), stick it lower to the gound so u don't have to waste all that time getting to it, and work it!
anyway this should be locked b4 it turns into a boulderer vs. sporto vs. tradsters war... God know we have enough of those in the archives...
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wv5ten
Feb 23, 2003, 7:30 PM
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I agree with Lox and xanx. Power and Technique, and the ability to keep trying it since its close to the ground. This by no means suggests that its better, I loved the roped climbing i have done, and I am looking forward to doing more this season.
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lox
Feb 23, 2003, 8:45 PM
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Instant gratification.
Fewer choads.
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meataxe
Feb 24, 2003, 1:34 AM
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I find bouldering requires more technique. This is because a bouldering problem I would work on is more difficult than a route I would be able to climb.
I do worry about conserving energy more on a route. That is not to say I don't worry about conserving energy on a bouldering problem--it's just further down in priority.
Both are hard. Both are fun. (And each in different ways.)
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nthusiastj
Feb 24, 2003, 2:11 AM
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ADD
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freudian
Feb 24, 2003, 2:38 AM
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All this talk about people only liking to 'work' the crux of a route, or bouldering cause its basically all a crux...
For me... I just like being on the rock. Sure, its a big thrill to complete a really hard route, but ... I enjoy even easy climbs like 5.5/5.6...
I guess diff. people climb for different reasons. I like to collect the gear envolved in route climbing specifically lead gear. I like improving my leading 'head'. Leadings a big head-game. Bouldering, unless its a high-ball problem, you don't seem to get that 'i could die right here' feeling. I personally don't 'boulder' very often. I traverse difficult sequences on indoor walls to increase my endurance and strength, but prefer to lead a route, indoor or outdoor... but outdoor's where it's at.
Freud
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wv5ten
Feb 24, 2003, 2:45 AM
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In reply to: I guess diff. people climb for different reasons. |
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apollodorus
Feb 24, 2003, 3:12 AM
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Bouldering is all about Power and Rubber:
Power and Rubber
Long climbs are more like running a marathon: pace yourself, with less power and more endurance.
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rockfax
Feb 24, 2003, 3:14 AM
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In reply to: i mean, how many people do you think could boulder the crux of Realization? just a thought
Good point. Probably hundreds. But how many people could climb the whole route? Well, that's easy - ONE.....so far.
The top boulderers are powerful and execute moves harder than any route moves (probably). Imagine when those moves, or multiples of those moves are found on routes.....we'll really see a jump in route standards.
Which we did see with Sharma's Realisation and several other hard routes.
Like they say....bouldering is great preparation for climbing routes.
Mick
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rockman517
Feb 24, 2003, 3:20 AM
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There are a few reasons I boulder exclusively...the first is that I like the social aspect of it....I love jumping from problem to problem talking ot people, making friends, and SHARING in the success of someones send....I think alot of the time I get more stoked when someone else sends something than when I send myself.....I also like the relaxation of bouldering.....I can chill out and enjoy nature inbetween burns, whereas while climbing routes there is often that "you might die right here feeling" as was mentioned before, plus you are always trying to fight the pump.....that is another reason I like bouldering....I never get that pumped feeling.....I hate that....I like being too tired to pull myself off the ground, but lactic acid and I don't get along.....And the final reason I like boudlering better is that you don't have to train for it.....It seems to me that you have to put alot of time and effort to gain good endurance, whereas you can be a decent boulderer if you just climb and that's it.....I get bored pretty easily, have to constantly be moving on to something else....doing laps, lifting weights, and eating properly aren't exactly my idea of fun....
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flamer
Feb 24, 2003, 3:21 AM
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I don't trust anyone that only practice's one type of climbing. Sure I prefer long Trad routes and walls tobouldering, but I've had some hell'a fun times bouldering as well. Will you here me giving Boulderer's(lol-erer) a hard time evry once in awhile? Sure! But it's all good fun. It's the people that only boulder or only Climb ice(these people are the scaryist) or only climb walls, and then spew about everything else that I don't know about..
Remember it's all climbing,ya know?
josh
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rockman517
Feb 24, 2003, 3:38 AM
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Oh, just for clarity, I am by no means saying that it is for everyone to stick to one type of climbing....and I definitely don't think someone should talk smack on Trad or Ice or Sport or Bouldering if they haven't tried it....But I DO think that you shouldn't be critisized by others just because you stick to a particular disipline......I think everyone should try every type of climbing available to them, and then decide what they liket to do, whether it be Trad and Ice, just ice, Bouldering and Sport whatever.....I tried it all, and I honestly do not enjoy climbing routes.....does anyone honestly think that I should do things that I don't enjoy just to be a well rounded climber, or to keep myself from being flamed?....that is not a very open minded idea to have....
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socalbolter
Feb 24, 2003, 3:44 AM
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there seems to be a lot of absolutes and generalizations in the preceding posts.
the bottom line is that different routes and different boulder problems will require different things and will provide different experiences for the climber.
to try and distill it all down to a single internet post simplifies the vast diversity that we all (i hope) enjoy about climbing.
do what you like...enjoy what you do... and let others do the same.
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