Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
don't they get stuck?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


diplodocus


Feb 23, 2003, 7:33 PM
Post #1 of 12 (2290 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 132

don't they get stuck?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

about to start aid climbing, do your nuts and hexes often get terribly wedged into cracks when you stand on them with etrier? how do you avoid it?


flamer


Feb 23, 2003, 7:56 PM
Post #2 of 12 (2290 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

don't they get stuck? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Not really....The art of proper placement cannot be overstated...grasshopper! :)
josh


copperhead


Feb 23, 2003, 7:57 PM
Post #3 of 12 (2290 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 668

don't they get stuck? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Use a hammer and nut tool to remove them.


apollodorus


Feb 23, 2003, 8:02 PM
Post #4 of 12 (2290 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157

don't they get stuck? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You avoid it by having the Master Cleaner clean up your fixed gear mess. He'll have a mighty thin cleaning tool, and the ability to work it. The super tiny stoppers/brasses will slow him down long enough for you to enjoy your paperback book, or DVD on battery power.

Many aid pitches are as hard to clean as they are to lead.

And you can't just leave the gear, because you'll run out of pieces up higher.


wallrat


Mar 9, 2003, 7:34 PM
Post #5 of 12 (2290 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 27, 2002
Posts: 155

don't they get stuck? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

One of my favorite wall tools was an old ice hammer. I ground the pick flat on both the bottom and end. It was the real deal for pulling recalcitrant nuts. Put the pick under the nut, and lever away. I wouldn't reccomend this for the nuts you use on your free rack, but it definately works. Also, the hammer was a bit light, but all in all it worked great.


socalclimber


Mar 10, 2003, 4:53 AM
Post #6 of 12 (2290 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437

don't they get stuck? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yeah, I have been pondering getting a small light weight tac hammer or some such device for cleaning the odd stuck brass nut. I know people who use them in Zion all the time!


passthepitonspete


Mar 10, 2003, 6:52 AM
Post #7 of 12 (2290 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 9, 2001
Posts: 2183

don't they get stuck? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The hotties comment frequently [and might I add quite "favourably"] about my Long Dong.

Their curiosity piqued, the more diabolical ones draw nigh for a closer inspection of Dr. Piton's equipment.

At which point their desire turns to horror, and they exclaim,

"Holy frig, Pete! The bottom of your nuts are bashed to hell!"


cantwinifyoudontplay2003


Mar 11, 2003, 1:11 AM
Post #8 of 12 (2290 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 24, 2003
Posts: 75

don't they get stuck? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Nice one Pete !


apollodorus


Mar 11, 2003, 2:59 AM
Post #9 of 12 (2290 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157

don't they get stuck? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hey Wallrat, I have an old Chouinard Ice Hammer that I cut the pick down to make a mini-Yosemite hammer. I ground a little hook in to the end of the pick, like the A5 hammer had. It works killer for yanking pins out. I just use a cleaning tool on the stoppers, or maybe hit it with the hammer.

I used to have a Chouinard rock hammer, which had a long, drooping pick about 8 inches long. It was like an ice hammer that had never had the pick sharpened, or teeth ground in. It was pretty silly. But, you could wail away at stuck pieces.


beyond_gravity


Mar 13, 2003, 7:44 PM
Post #10 of 12 (2290 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2002
Posts: 5078

don't they get stuck? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have a small cresent wrench from my bike kit on 3mm cord that I use to whack out nuts. It works really well.


diplodocus


Mar 14, 2003, 7:09 PM
Post #11 of 12 (2290 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 132

don't they get stuck? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hi beyond gravity,

do you have a pic of that crescent wrench? Sounds like a good alternative. Tks for the tip.


beyond_gravity


Mar 15, 2003, 12:11 PM
Post #12 of 12 (2290 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2002
Posts: 5078

don't they get stuck? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

diplodocus,

any hardware store will sell a crescent wrench. It's probably just our terminology. Itís just one of those adjustable wrenches. Iím sure you have one in your toolbox at home. Most of them have a hole on the end, just thread some cord threw it. Of course for wall climbing you wouldnít need one because you would have a nut tool and wall hammer. However if climbing trad or just anytime you donít need to hammer it works great.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook