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Squamish Cheif
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beyond_gravity


Feb 24, 2003, 7:45 PM
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Squamish Cheif
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Since the regional discussions thingy isn't working, i guess someone here is most likley to know. Feel free to move this into any forum as long as it isn't community :evil:



Does anyone know if there is a route that goes up that wierd dark line on Squamish Cheif? it looks kinnda cool...or is it just a black line of choss? I don't get why it's there. Is it natural?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=8637


dogen


Feb 24, 2003, 7:56 PM
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Squamish Cheif [In reply to]
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its called Black Dyke (A3). i think it recently went free at 5.13 something.


bigwalling


Feb 24, 2003, 8:11 PM
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Squamish Cheif [In reply to]
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Matt Madaloni freed the dyke this past year. I think it is pretty much a sport climb now. I think Matt still made it so it was a little spooky(runouts). There is also still alot of loose rock on it. I would have to imagine there are far better climbs than the Dyke. By the way the climbs in that area all have funny names, like Straight White Male, Black Dyke, Negro Lesbiian. S.W.M. isn't in any guidebook though. It starts on Java Jive and according to the F.A. guy it is technical climbing. My guess is it is the best climb in that area.

Have fun,
Jake


peas


Feb 24, 2003, 10:37 PM
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Squamish Cheif [In reply to]
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You can access the top of it from the treed ledge and it goes at 10c. I think the black dyke also runs through the Malamute too.


krustyklimber


Feb 24, 2003, 11:24 PM
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Squamish Cheif [In reply to]
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Jeremy,

I have a series of pictures from the base up, for an attempt on Negro Lesbian.

If you like, I could send them your way.

Jeff http://pages.prodigy.net/.../emoticons/wave1.gif


peas


Feb 25, 2003, 10:44 AM
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Squamish Cheif [In reply to]
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Also, to answer your question about whether it's natural or not. Yes, it's natural. The black dyke is made of basalt, and it formed when molten basalt flowed into the already cooled granite and then solidified there. There are lots of other dykes in squamish, I think this is the biggest one though. I think some of the other dykes are made of a rock other than basalt, but I'm not sure. Merci Me and Joe's Dyke are some other good dyke climbs on the Chief.


flying_dutchman


Feb 25, 2003, 11:33 AM
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Squamish Cheif [In reply to]
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the upper black dyke starts off of bellygood ledge at 10A and is 4 pitches long. The lower part was untill recently only aid.


peas


Feb 25, 2003, 11:36 AM
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Squamish Cheif [In reply to]
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In the corrections section of the updated McLane guidebook, the Upper Black Dyke is listed as 10c, instead of 10a.


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