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beyond_gravity
Feb 25, 2003, 3:45 AM
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Since the regional discussions thingy isn't working, i guess someone here is most likley to know. Feel free to move this into any forum as long as it isn't community :evil: Does anyone know if there is a route that goes up that wierd dark line on Squamish Cheif? it looks kinnda cool...or is it just a black line of choss? I don't get why it's there. Is it natural? http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=8637
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dogen
Feb 25, 2003, 3:56 AM
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its called Black Dyke (A3). i think it recently went free at 5.13 something.
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bigwalling
Feb 25, 2003, 4:11 AM
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Matt Madaloni freed the dyke this past year. I think it is pretty much a sport climb now. I think Matt still made it so it was a little spooky(runouts). There is also still alot of loose rock on it. I would have to imagine there are far better climbs than the Dyke. By the way the climbs in that area all have funny names, like Straight White Male, Black Dyke, Negro Lesbiian. S.W.M. isn't in any guidebook though. It starts on Java Jive and according to the F.A. guy it is technical climbing. My guess is it is the best climb in that area. Have fun, Jake
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peas
Feb 25, 2003, 6:37 AM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2002
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You can access the top of it from the treed ledge and it goes at 10c. I think the black dyke also runs through the Malamute too.
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peas
Feb 25, 2003, 6:44 PM
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Also, to answer your question about whether it's natural or not. Yes, it's natural. The black dyke is made of basalt, and it formed when molten basalt flowed into the already cooled granite and then solidified there. There are lots of other dykes in squamish, I think this is the biggest one though. I think some of the other dykes are made of a rock other than basalt, but I'm not sure. Merci Me and Joe's Dyke are some other good dyke climbs on the Chief.
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flying_dutchman
Feb 25, 2003, 7:33 PM
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Registered: Nov 20, 2002
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the upper black dyke starts off of bellygood ledge at 10A and is 4 pitches long. The lower part was untill recently only aid.
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peas
Feb 25, 2003, 7:36 PM
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In the corrections section of the updated McLane guidebook, the Upper Black Dyke is listed as 10c, instead of 10a.
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