Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
what to do when your rope is stuck
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


funoutside


Feb 25, 2003, 5:26 PM
Post #1 of 11 (2088 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2003
Posts: 23

what to do when your rope is stuck
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have heard about people ascending up ropes that are stuck at the top of the climb after trying to pull the rope. Can anyone please clerify what is going on here. I mean people are not ascending ropes that are stuck and not tied I would hope.
Say you have only a single rope and it gets stuck on a multi pitch while rapping down, what do you do?
Not that this would happen to me unless something crazey happend, I usually carry two.
Just wondering on the situation.


mapman


Feb 25, 2003, 5:54 PM
Post #2 of 11 (2088 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 31, 2003
Posts: 13

what to do when your rope is stuck [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Pull, pull, pull, and if that doesn't work you are going back up...

http://www.climbing.com/Pages/Techtip_pages/194/techtips194-trad.html

http://www.climbing.com/Pages/Techtip_pages/195/techtip195_trad.html


mauriceb


Feb 25, 2003, 6:36 PM
Post #3 of 11 (2088 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 247

what to do when your rope is stuck [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Mapman - Thanks for the links. I only have one question - In the second article it suggests tying off a damaged section of rope with an overhand then placing knot against rappell ring and rapping other line. If you've matched both ends of the rope before running them thru the rings, why wouldn't you rap both lines and then pull the side with the knot?

maurice


apollodorus


Feb 25, 2003, 6:50 PM
Post #4 of 11 (2088 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157

what to do when your rope is stuck [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you have to go back up to retrieve a stuck rap rope, do it as if you were roped soloing. Tie the bottom off to a BOMBER anchor, and put a directional up above that, if you can. Tie overhand knots as you go, and keep at least one clipped to you with two lockers at all times. That way, if the rope does pull free, you're only going to take a leader fall. Putting pro in as you go is not a bad idea, either. You can retrieve it as you rap back down.


talons05


Feb 25, 2003, 7:01 PM
Post #5 of 11 (2088 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2001
Posts: 1435

Sew it up! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The only truly safe way to do it, as appolodorus hinted at, is to - in effect - RE-LEAD the section back to the rap anchors! Though you will be using ascenders to move more quickly, I recommend placing gear as if you were back on lead...

A.W.


arlen


Feb 25, 2003, 10:35 PM
Post #6 of 11 (2088 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 3, 2001
Posts: 127

what to do when your rope is stuck [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It happened to me once.

The blame falls evenly on my partner and me: he didn't trust the 5 or so slings that were already present (not a bad decision), but the new sling he tied pulled the rap ring about 1.5" back over the lip of the ledge. He went first, then I threaded my ATC so that the ropes crossed over.:oops: It was an awkward stance even for a right-handed rap, and I'm left-handed, but there's no excuse. I got to the bottom, the rope got stuck, and we were preparing to gear lead up the side we had in our hands, when a free soloer crawled onto our ledge and sunnily offered to free our rope. :o

Moral: don't cross the fricken ropes. Lesson: you'll do it sooner or later, so have a plan and the gear to do it.

Arlen


mauriceb


Feb 26, 2003, 2:52 PM
Post #7 of 11 (2088 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 247

what to do when your rope is stuck [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

For those who checked out the links above I have a question.

In the second article it details what to do if the rope is damaged during retrival. It suggests tying off a damaged section of rope with an overhand then placing knot against rappell ring and rapping other line. If you've matched both ends of the rope before running them thru the rings, why wouldn't you rap normally (both lines) and then pull the side with the knot?

http://www.climbing.com/Pages/Techtip_pages/195/techtip195_trad.html

maurice


sspssp


Feb 26, 2003, 2:59 PM
Post #8 of 11 (2088 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731

what to do when your rope is stuck [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I didn't read the link, but if you've tied off a damaged portion of the rope, and you rapped both lines, you would have to pass the knot. It can be done, but it is a pain and would slow you down. So, just rap the good side.


apollodorus


Feb 26, 2003, 3:35 PM
Post #9 of 11 (2088 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157

what to do when your rope is stuck [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you use ascenders to go back up the rope, you MUST tie overhand knots and clip in to them. If the top of the rope pulls, your ascenders will be pointing down when the rope goes tight against the lower anchor. In other words, you'd be jugging right off the end of the rope at top speed.


ride


Feb 27, 2003, 11:13 AM
Post #10 of 11 (2088 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 16, 2002
Posts: 216

what to do when your rope is stuck [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
If you have to go back up to retrieve a stuck rap rope, do it as if you were roped soloing.

Yep, happened to me while I was rope-soloing Sespe (Black Wall) in Ojai. The end of rope had miraculously tied itself into a big 'ole knot (it was quite amazing actually, never had that happen before or since, I *could've* forgotten something, I guess), which got stuck in the rings.

luckily I had the Soloist already with me, and was smart enough to do exactly what Apollodorus mentioned.


dig_scott


Mar 3, 2003, 12:07 PM
Post #11 of 11 (2088 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 29, 2002
Posts: 303

what to do when your rope is stuck [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i have pulled a rope on sport with the 8 still tied. dont know why. lucky for me we had two ropes and i relead the pitch but was to burned out from climbing that day that i couldnt clip the last bolt so i accended the last bit.

i have also pulled the rope and had a knot tie in the end. i know i didnt forget this time cause i saw the knot form. i think i pulled it too fast and the end was flapping around.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook