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wishiwaswest
Feb 28, 2003, 2:34 PM
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Was at the gym yesterday and was waiting to try this rather crimpy 5.10+ route with an overhang at the crux. Woman on it, nice technique, good style...dang her...been hanging on this route for a week trying to get the crux moves...down she comes....up I go....but that's another story....grrrrrrr...anyway...in the locker room later...she is just leaving as I am changing and I notice her nails...I mean LONG nails....manicured french style nails.....nary a chip....am I doing something wrong? I have nubs..not nails....never seen anything like it...what gives???
Just had to vent....I'll nail that crux if it kills me....maybe you NEED nails to do it :shock: Yeah...that's it....
GO AWAY SNOW!!!!!
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ecocliffchick
Feb 28, 2003, 2:46 PM
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Are you sure she hadn't just applied her nails before you got into the change room? I have never seen a women climbing well with long nails - especially on crimpy routes. My guess is that they were fake.
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katydid
Feb 28, 2003, 3:06 PM
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Even with my little nubs, I find I always have enough for a fingernail cling (OUCH) -- but I don't imagine you'll find any of those in the gym. Personally, I don't know how ANYONE can climb with long fingernails (or toenails, for that matter).
What kind of holds are giving you grief? Maybe there's a different way you can grab them...
k.
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whitenight
Feb 28, 2003, 3:20 PM
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I can't imagine having long nails and climbing! My nails never get too long, but I always make sure I clip them before heading to a climb. I'll bet they were press-on nails and she just applied them, if not the paint would have been chipped and scratched.
Good luck with the route, you'll be fine without nails!!!!!!!!!!!!
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mwbtle
Feb 28, 2003, 3:37 PM
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Thats so weird! Every girl I've seen at the gym who was climbing well looked a lot like me...grubby, with stubby nails, and chalk marks on her butt. (I'm not a boulderer, I'm just a messy chalker, nor do I climb that well, but I was just saying).
I'd bet she just applied them though, like the others have said, because I'd think that even if they weren't chipped, they'd have bent back her natural nails if she was crimping. Which would HURT.
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yppah
Feb 28, 2003, 8:46 PM
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I don't grow my nails either, but I like putting on nail polish (mostly just to see how much of it I can chip off before the end of the day) :)
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wishiwaswest
Feb 28, 2003, 9:50 PM
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Not into the nail thing, but didn't realize you could just pop fake nails on and off...but that must have been it.....can't see how she did it otherwise, but there wasn't much time between her coming off the route and me seeing her leaving.....(Twilight Zone Theme) It's a mystery.....
Anyway....I don't bother polishing my nubs...but I do go for pedicures in the summer....the cosmeticians cringe in horror when they see my toes though..... :lol: Especially my big toenail...it has a propensity for falling off....
Katydid....this crux just kills me....it's all crimpy right up to the overhang and there are no feet just before you have to hurl yourself up to this admittedly juggy hold just over the top....I just can't seem to nail it....if I get my feet under me, I can't hold on to those two little friggin holds and I can't seem to lock off to power up to the jug....I just fall apart as soon as I get up to the move....my partner says he can see me tensing as soon as I get there....probably most of my problem....RELAX...RELAX.....VALIUM.....better yet WINE....
Have a good weekend all....
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cruzit
Apr 23, 2003, 2:15 PM
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Long nails...no way. When I started climbing 3 or so years ago, I was one of those women who had her nails done every two weeks. The first time I popped one of those lovely long nails off pulling a crimper was the day they all came off...EEEOOOW. I think you'all are right...something very strange is going on.........
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katydid
Apr 23, 2003, 4:14 PM
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In reply to: Katydid....this crux just kills me....it's all crimpy right up to the overhang and there are no feet just before you have to hurl yourself up to this admittedly juggy hold just over the top....I just can't seem to nail it....if I get my feet under me, I can't hold on to those two little friggin holds and I can't seem to lock off to power up to the jug....I just fall apart as soon as I get up to the move....my partner says he can see me tensing as soon as I get there....probably most of my problem....RELAX...RELAX.....VALIUM.....better yet WINE....
Could you do the move if you were going from big holds to more big holds? Might be an issue of crimp strength, if it isn't one of tension (or a combination of both). But you're not going to be able to lock off for any time at all if you're tensed up beforehand -- it's just not physiologically possible.
If you've got the pads of your fingers on the hold, try using the tips instead. You'll get more leverage because your finger bones can support more weight in that position. And take a big, deep breath or two and think of the Flintstones theme song before you head into the move... ;)
(Now back to your regularly scheduled thread.)
k.
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