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Access Fund's e-Vertical Times #28 (Feb 2003)
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Access Fund's e-Vertical Times #28 (Feb 2003)
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AF E-News #28
February 2003
The Access Fund
your climbing future


1. Access Fund to Host “Climbers for Political Action�
2. Gross Reservoir, CO -- Popular Front Range Bouldering Area Closed
3. North Carolina Climbers Honor Veteran Friend and Advocate
4. Oak Creek Scenic Vista, AZ
5. Mount Rushmore, SD -- "Code Orange" alert affects access to climbing
6. South Platte, CO -- Forest Service Extends Closure in Hayman Burn Area
7. Flatirons Climbing Council Seeks Volunteers
8. Hollywood Hans Speeds to Sports Basement Benefit
9. Vertical Times Print Newsletter Complemented by PDF Version

1. Access Fund to Host “Climbers for Political Action�
On May 15, the Access Fund will host the first ever "Climbers for Political
Action" media event at Great Falls Park, outside Washington, DC. This
groundbreaking occasion is intended to improve relations between climbers and
government, and galvanize climber activism in support of legislation and
regulatory initiatives that benefit climbing in the United States. The event
will also will serve to educate members of Congress, Congressional staff,
officials from federal resource management agencies, and leading environmental
organizations about recreation issues and values, as well as efforts by the
climbing community to support important conservation causes.

“Climbers for Political Action� will accomplish three goals: (1) Provide a
forum for legislators and agency officials to speak on public lands policies;
(2) Help the Access Fund expand its network of contacts and relations in
Washington; and (3) Raise awareness about climbing and climber-supported
legislation. The AF will accomplish these goals by organizing and executing the
event at a high standard of quality and professionalism, and by drawing members
of Congress and high-ranking public land managers to participate. “Climbers
for Political Action� will give Congressional members an opportunity to
promote the merits of their legislative agenda before a diverse audience,
provide a forum for agency officials to illustrate their land management goals,
and will offer climbers and environmentalists an opportunity to demonstrate
their support for these initiatives. We anticipate that additional
Congressional members and agency officials will present remarks as well. Other
attendees include Access Fund staff and volunteers, local climbing
organizations, local climbers, and area business owners.

“Climbers for Political Action� will promote informal discussion among
attendees, Participants are encouraged to enjoy lunch and test their climbing
prowess on both an artificial wall and on Great Falls's crags. Members of local
and national print media (i.e. Outside Magazine and The Washington Post) will
be invited to attend and report on the inaugural “Climbers for Political
Action� event. Local television stations will be recruited for visual news
coverage. For more information, contact Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith

2. Gross Reservoir, CO -- Popular Front Range Bouldering Area Closed
Denver Water (DW) officially closed Gross Reservoir (a.k.a., Damnation) in the
last week of January. The bouldering area was located on Boulder County Open
Space property, which was being leased from the BLM. DW, Colorado's largest
water utility company recently acquired the property. According to DW
officials, the property was acquired to consolidate management of the utility
company's holdings in the vicinity of the dam. The officials also cited
"heightened security concerns" near the dam as a reason for the acquisition.
The Access Fund has not been able to reach an agreement with the utility
company to allow bouldering.

Climbers should refrain from using this area, as Denver Water plans to
aggressively ticket trespassers.

3. North Carolina Climbers Honor Veteran Friend and Advocate
The Carolina Climbers' Coalition (CCC) is teaming up with the Boone
Climbers' Coalition, the Pisgah Climbers' Association, and the Access Fund to
honor Tommy Wagoner, a 30 veteran of the North Carolina Park Service. During
his career as Superintendent of Hanging Rock State Park, Mr. Wagoner developed
positive relationships between climbers and park officials, developed the first
Climbing Management Plan in the Carolinas, and continually advocated on behalf
of climbers. Mr. Wagoner listened to climbers' suggestions and concerns, led
trail building and conservation activities, and hosted, with the CCC, an
Adopt-a-Crag Day event in the park.

Always a friend to climbers, "Mr. Wagoner is a model for all park
superintendents," said Mr. Michael Pinkston, CCC president, "It has been a
great pleasure to work with Tommy."

4. Oak Creek Scenic Vista, AZ -- Forest Service Considers Re-opening Area
Closed to Climbing
The Forest Service is considering a proposal drafted by members of the Northern
Arizona Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund to re-open a portion of the
overlook that has been closed to climbing since 1993. The proposal outlines
mitigation actions that would address the safety and resource protection
concerns, which precipitated the closure.

The Oak Creek Overlook features quality basalt crack climbs. Concerns over
visitor safety first surfaced in the early 1990's when curious onlookers
wandered dangerously close to the cliff edge to view climbers. Thus, based on a
recommendation from the county sheriff, the area beneath the scenic vista was
closed to climbing. In the last decade, paved trails, signs, railings, and a
visitor's center were installed at the Vista.

The Forest Service will accept comments on the proposal in an environmental
analysis currently being prepared for the area. Comments should be submitted by
March 14, 2003. Send comments to the Red Rock Ranger District, attention
Jennifer Burns, PO Box 300, Sedona, AZ 86336 or to obtain a
copy of the proposal, call the District at 928-282-4119. A public open house
will be held at Flagstaff City Hall on March 5th from 6-8PM.

5. Mount Rushmore, SD -- "Code Orange" alert affects access to climbing
(Report submitted by Duane Martenson, AF Regional Coordinator)
Climbers should park at the Wrinkled Rock and Chopping Block areas, and not
along the road or the South Seas area. The main mass of Rushmore is off limits,
including the Emancipation Rockphormation. Routes that are off limits include
"Garfield Goes to Washington," "Read my Clips," "PB & J," "The Engagement,"
"Five Card Draw," and others. Marker area and west is open.

If in doubt as to whether you can park or climb in a certain area, go to a
different area where you are sure.

6. South Platte, CO -- Forest Service Extends Closure in Hayman Burn Area
The Forest Service has extended the closure of the Hayman Fire Burn area for an
“indefinite� period, although it is expected that some areas will re-open
by mid-March. Because the closure affects access to many popular climbing
locations in the South Platte, the Access Fund has urged the Forest Service to
re-open areas that were the least affected by the burn, such as Turkey Rocks.
Further information about the closure can be obtained by contacting the Pike
National Forest Supervisors office at 719-553-1400.

7. Flatirons Climbing Council Seeks Volunteers
The Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC) and City of Boulder Open Space & Mountain
Parks have entered into an agreement that permits a pilot project for the
placement of new fixed anchors on certain cliffs on Dinosaur Mountain. The new
routes should be approved by fall.

The FCC is forming a Fixed Hardware Review Committee, similar to that of the
Action Committee for Eldorado. The FCC intends to fill four positions.
Interested parties should call Dave Turner at 303-860-9844.

8. Hollywood Hans Speeds to Sports Basement Benefit
On April 9th, the Access Fund will team up with Sports Basement and CLIF Bar to
host a members-only evening. Access Fund members and one guest are invited to
share food and beer, receive a 10% discount on all purchases, and watch an
entertaining slide show by the worlds fastest climber, Hans Florine. A portion
of the proceeds from the evening's sales will benefit the Access Fund.

The private party begins at 6:30pm on April 9th at Sports Basement, 1301 6th
St. San Francisco, CA 94107. Log onto for directions.
Free parking is available.

For more information about this exciting event please contact Heather Clark
303-545-6772 x.100 or Sophia Steinaecker 415-437-0100 x.41. Please RSVP to

9. Vertical Times Print Newsletter Complemented by PDF Version
"Vertical Times," the Access Fund's bimonthly print newsletter, provides
up-to-date news on policy, area reports, events, action alerts, grants, and
more. It is a benefit to members and non-members alike (if you are not a
member, please join at Indeed it is a
benefit to the entire climbing community. By offering this unique publication
electronically, the Access Fund will decrease printing and mailing costs, thus
allocating more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. If you choose to take
part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home,
please email your name/address to with "Remove Vertical
Times" as the subject.

Presently, over 200 members have requested not to receive their print copy of
Vertical Times (a savings to the Access Fund of $600 per year to be utilized in

To view back issues of Vertical Times, visit

1. The Access Fund office in Boulder is the only source of outgoing messages to
the lists.
2. The AF will not sell or give away email addresses of E-News subscribers.
3. E-News is an announcement-only e-mail list; therefore, you cannot reply to
any of the list members.
4. All e-mail addresses will remain confidential with every mail sent.

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