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belaying with a Garda hitch
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beyond_gravity


Mar 3, 2003, 8:32 PM
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belaying with a Garda hitch
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Would it be safe to bring up the 2nd with a Garda hitch? Of course like any belay you would allways keep your brake hand on the rope. Is this equivelent to belaying with a prussik, or is it ok?


Thanks


jt512


Mar 3, 2003, 8:54 PM
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Re: belaying with a Garda hitch [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Would it be safe to bring up the 2nd with a Garda hitch? Of course like any belay you would allways keep your brake hand on the rope. Is this equivelent to belaying with a prussik, or is it ok?

This is an inane question that we have previously answered. No, it is not ok to belay a second by using a garda hitch. The garda hitch is a one-way knot designed for raising loads. It would be difficult, if not impossible, to lower the second if the need arose. What if the second got injured by rockfall and needed to be lowered to safety?

Use a freak'n belay device or a munter hitch, like everyone else does.

-Jay


apollodorus


Mar 3, 2003, 9:19 PM
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belaying with a Garda hitch [In reply to]
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Unless, of course, your partner qualifies as a load that you have to raise.

In that instance, it's better to use the Kong Block Roll, or other hauling pulley with an integral jumar-type cam. Or maybe use the 2:1 Chongo Ratchet, if your partner is especially heavy.

Under no circumstances, though, should you be forced to carry your partner to the base in a haul bag (i.e., "hump your partner").

If he's that lazy, leave him in the car with the windows rolled down one inch for air.


beyond_gravity


Mar 4, 2003, 7:06 AM
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belaying with a Garda hitch [In reply to]
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Cool.


In reply to:
Unless, of course, your partner qualifies as a load that you have to raise.

In that instance, it's better to use the Kong Block Roll, or other hauling pulley with an integral jumar-type cam. Or maybe use the 2:1 Chongo Ratchet, if your partner is especially heavy.


I don't know how many non-aid climbers would own a haling pulley with an integral cam, let alone carry one.

In reply to:
Under no circumstances, though, should you be forced to carry your partner to the base in a haul bag (i.e., "hump your partner").

If he's that lazy, leave him in the car with the windows rolled down one inch for air

:lol:


tradclimber2


Mar 4, 2003, 3:37 PM
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If he's that lazy, leave him in the car with the windows rolled down one inch for air.

I might add - 'and be sure to tell him not to bark at people walking by the car'. :lol: :lol: :lol:


punk


Mar 4, 2003, 3:54 PM
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belaying with a Garda hitch [In reply to]
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BG,
another of your famous trolls haa??


fitz


Mar 5, 2003, 8:34 AM
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Sure it is OK. Just be sure to use your rope and climb with someone I don't know...

-jjf


bighigaz


Mar 5, 2003, 8:44 AM
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belaying with a Garda hitch [In reply to]
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Apollodorus wrote:
In reply to:
I don't know how many non-aid climbers would own a hauling pulley with an integral cam, let alone carry one.

Hey, I have yet to aid climb, but I carry one! I guess it's just my aspirations for higher learning that I have yet to achieve. But I have one! I also have a pair of etriers, petzl ascenders, a couple of bat hooks and daisy chains... I think I'm about ready to start practicing come clean aid... I just have to get out and do it!

:D

Oh, but back on topic, I found a great website that has all kinds of knots, and explanations from Gary Storrick...

http://storrick.cnchost.com/index.html (home page)

Since the html code doesn't seem to like me (I tried to make a link to the Garda Knot), you can go straight to the home page or click on the vertical devices link below... Anyway, from what I gathered, belaying with the Garda is not a good idea...

http://storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/VerticalHome.shtml


vegastradguy


Mar 5, 2003, 5:43 PM
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belaying with a Garda hitch [In reply to]
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that man has 600 belay/ascending/descending devices. good lord.

although i noticed that on his 'posted collection' he lacks the Trango and the Reverso, although I think he has them now.

sheesh, talk about overkill.


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