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apolobamba
Feb 13, 2003, 7:15 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2003
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I was wondering how good the climbing is near Portland beside Smith Rock (3 hours away)?
Are there any good long trad lines? What type of rock is there?
I love trad climbing on granite in California. I love places like Tahquitz, the Domelands and the Needles. Hermit Spire is my favorite place.
I would hate to move away to a place that does not have great climbing. I am thinking of moving up there because of a job and a better quality of general life. I am unsure about the quality of climbing?
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ubotch
Feb 13, 2003, 7:51 PM
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Registered: Jul 19, 2002
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I lived in that area all my life up until a few years ago. I started rock climbing after I moved away though, so I can't say if there is good climbing. I can tell you that it rains 8 months out of the year there. So even if you find good rock, make sure you take that into consideration. The rain is the reason I'm not there anymore.
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shortfatoldguy
Feb 13, 2003, 8:15 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2002
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It really is mostly about Smith up here. That said, there is good sustained climbing on basalt columns on Beacon Rock, 45-60 mins away, and some short cragging on basalt in town at Rocky Butte and just outside town at Broughton's Bluff.
Weather sux, though. The basalt is wet most of the year. Which is another reason to put in the windshield time for Smith. Oh, and Beacon is closed much of the year for nesting.
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markd
Feb 13, 2003, 8:32 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2002
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Climbing season is year round, you just have to know the routes that are always dry.
Beacon is the best multipitch in the area with sustained basalt columns.
Definately not Southen California.......but as we say, It's Oregon, give it a minute.
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sunsation
Feb 13, 2003, 8:36 PM
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Registered: Aug 16, 2002
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Or you can always take a 3 day weekend and come up to Squamish. Roadtrippin's all good!
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drkayak
Feb 13, 2003, 9:01 PM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2002
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Don't do it dude! If you are a serious rock climber you will hate Portland. I moved there from Sacramento for a job. Stayed less than one year then moved back to CA.
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climbandboard
Feb 14, 2003, 2:22 AM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2002
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I live in Portland. There is Broughton Bluff, Rocky Butte, Carver, Beacon rock, French's Dome. Broughton has 160' walls of basalt and is easy to get to. Plenty of people with knowhow you could hook up with at Stoneworks climbing gym, Portland Rock gym and Clubsport. Good luck, have fun!
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mountaindoc
Feb 14, 2003, 3:10 AM
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Registered: Jan 17, 2003
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I was born and raised there. Portland is all about hiking in lush rain forests, waterfalls, mushroom hunting, and mountaineering. As for climbing, you're going to have to travel. Brouhton's is ok if you like basalt columns, and it's about a 45 min drive. Beacon rock is the nearest Multi pitch, about an hour away, more basalt. Smith is awesome, 2 1/2 hrs. Then there's Washington. Climbers playground if you like alpine trad. Liberty bell configuration, 5-6 hrs, Alpine Lakes Wilderness plus tons of stuff around Levinworth, 4 hrs. North Cascades, endless grade IV-VI's, 6 hrs. Also Castle Crag in N. California is 5 1/2 hrs. 10 hrs to City of Rocks. Plus you've got Hood, Raineer, Jefferson all w/in 3 hrs. Check out Selected Climbs in the Cascades. Portland is an awesome city if you can handle the grey and gloom and rain!
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wonderbread
Feb 14, 2003, 3:13 AM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2002
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Portland has pretty good climbing, it's not SLC or Boulder, but here's the scoop-Smith is 2.5 hrs away and is excellent, every grade trad and sport. Beacon Rock is 45 min away and is closed from January to mid July, but is the best crack climbing in the area, many multi pitch basalt splitters mostly in the 10 range. Broughton's Bluff is .5 hr away and routes stay pretty dry here, so this is your best bet for winter cragging, a wide range of trad and sport grades, mostly 1 pitch and on basalt, the best lines tend to be sport routes in the 12 range. Carver(basalt) faces north and is pretty wet until summer, almost entirely sport with a wide range of grades, though the best lines are in the 11 and 12 range. Carver also has the only worthwhile bouldering in the Portland area, though they are mostly mini problems. Rocky Butte is simply aweful, don't bother. Frenches Dome is a beautiful summer area an hour away on the flanks of Mt Hood, only about 12 routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.12 most are good and all are sport. The gyms are also good during periods of rain, and Mt Hood is only 1.5 hrs and has year round skiing and mountaineering. Plus the gyms are good for the long periods of rain that do tend to frequent the area, however, as mentioned above the climbing season is year round as the temps are mild, so don't miss the winter days when it stops raining as the friction is stellar. Have fun it's a great area and hope you like basalt.
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chico2442
Mar 4, 2003, 5:41 AM
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Registered: Feb 23, 2003
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I lived in Oregon until i was 14 years old, then moved to Chico Cal.....I saw the post and somebody mentioned Rocky Butte. I had forgotten about that place, my dad used to take me there to climb the "castle" walls when i was like 4-6 years old....i'm 17 now. But Rocky Butte what a place, such memories!! Yeah so if you have a young kid wanna take climbing its a pretty good place.
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