Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
dead man's party, fisher towers
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


fieldmouse


Mar 5, 2003, 7:08 AM
Post #1 of 3 (1060 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 25, 2002
Posts: 404

dead man's party, fisher towers
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I had originally planned on attempting intifada, on cottontail tower, but have since learned that dmp is more sustained and difficult. If anyone has some kind of information regarding this route, I would greatly appreciate it if you could relay it this direction. p.s. this may be the first usefull application of the internet that I have come across.


alpinestylist


Mar 7, 2003, 12:24 AM
Post #2 of 3 (1060 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 22, 2002
Posts: 193

dead man's party, fisher towers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

so talking out of my ass...

I heard this one has bolts on some of the pitches, don't know which, but anchors are natural.

It sounds totally in poor style, but I would bring a drill, not to bolt, but Beyer doesn't really give a shit about those of us repeating his routes. He trenches heads, drills holes when he needs too, and in the Fischers they totally erode. An old buddy took multiple tries to make the 2nd of World's End because he got skunked by eroded trenched heads.

Sounds like the real deal, have fun


fieldmouse


Mar 8, 2003, 9:07 PM
Post #3 of 3 (1060 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 25, 2002
Posts: 404

dead man's party, fisher towers [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I believe that when making any second or third ascent of a difficult fisher towers aid line a drill is almost necessary, no matter who the first ascentionist is. Jim Beyer's routes especially, because of his tendency to do strange things with drills and aluminum heads. These placements were not meant to last the 12-15 years of erosion that they have been taxed with, and therefore must be emulated or replaced.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook