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iamthewallress
Mar 5, 2003, 2:20 AM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
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I'm a big fan of screamers, but they always lose their condom which is annoying.
I'm also a big fan of Yates Adjustable Daisies. I want to get myself some so that I can quit borrowing my friend's. (I don't care much for the Metolius'.)
I was thinking about getting some w/ the built in screamer. I see that it has a wax condom, so it shouldn't fall off as easily as the cloth one. Does it wear through pretty quickly w/ routine daisy abraision? Does it get in the way when you're cleaning?
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socalclimber
Mar 5, 2003, 1:14 PM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
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Howdy, don't bother buying the adj. with the screamers. They are just clutter and get in the way. If you need screamers, then use them where you need them.
I like the Yates a ton too!
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mountainmonkey
Mar 5, 2003, 4:52 PM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2002
Posts: 474
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The one problem with the normal screamer and a Metolius adjustable daisy is that the daisy is only rated to 300 lbs and the screamer won't activate till 2kN or ~450 lbs. One of the scream-aids will activate at about 1.5kN or 336 lbs, which is close to enough. With most normal daisies, the pockets are rated to 2 kN which should be fine for a screamer. I just use the adjustables knowing the fact that if I take a daisy fall the daisy should break, and if the rope is clipped in it will catch me next. I would prefer the daisy to break than to overload the piece I am on. Rope=dynamic, daisy=static.
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socalclimber
Mar 5, 2003, 4:54 PM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
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I would definately agree with that. Shockload bad. Dynamic good.
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