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jbur
Mar 5, 2003, 5:40 PM
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Not enough screamers on the first piece :lol:
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arrettinator
Mar 5, 2003, 5:41 PM
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That belayer seems a bit far away.
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wigglestick
Mar 5, 2003, 5:41 PM
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The belayer appears to be sober, is actually facing the climber, is not reaching into the haulbag (with both hands) for some marshmellow peeps, and there isn't a bottle of Old E anywhere to seen.
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bishop
Mar 5, 2003, 5:43 PM
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The belayers helmet is going to do a lot of good protecting the ground.
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piton
Mar 5, 2003, 5:44 PM
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zipper! boink, boink. hope he opposes his gear placements
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mackavus
Mar 5, 2003, 5:49 PM
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Well the belayer in the foreground is going to have to change his name to tinkerbell if that leader should ever fall... he is going to go for a ride! He appears to be seriously outweighed and is not anchored to anything, plus he is a bit far away. Later on! Chris
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hugepedro
Mar 5, 2003, 5:50 PM
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At least that big guy aiding is wearing his helmet. When he falls and yanks his belayer into the wall and craters at least he might not sustain a serious head injury.
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mikedano
Mar 5, 2003, 5:50 PM
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I see this style of belaying in the gym all the time. Please, belayers, unless you weight more than 1,000 pounds, STAND NEXT TO THE WALL. My only other complaint is that there are no naked people in this picture.
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kcrag
Mar 5, 2003, 5:51 PM
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wigglestick, you forgot to point out the belayer is not sitting on a atg200's cooler. what a shame. from the looks of the climber, that belayer is going to get awful tired standing there all day. okay, elvislegs. spill it... relatives? climbing pals? Mentors? -k.
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elvislegs
Mar 5, 2003, 5:55 PM
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These are my two most trusted partners! So competent, so well organized. 8) ACTUALLY, I just found this shot in the new photos section and found it very, very, funny and thought I would share.
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ambler
Mar 5, 2003, 5:56 PM
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It's a great picture, but how about crediting the original source?
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elvislegs
Mar 5, 2003, 5:58 PM
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Sorry, the username is crotch. I'll go get the link... http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=11637
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wigglestick
Mar 5, 2003, 6:08 PM
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kcrag, you can't expect these guys to drag the cooler all the way from the parking lot. If the belayer gets hungry and/or too hot he will surely just ask the leader if he is in a good spot and make the arduous hike back to parking lot and have a cold beverage and a ham sandwich or something.
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elvislegs
Mar 5, 2003, 6:11 PM
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Or, just let out enough slack to back up some more, and belay from the parking lot.
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ljthawk
Mar 5, 2003, 6:19 PM
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Don't laugh too much. One day when I was at Sand Rock I saw the exact same belay set up for a sport route. The leader was dead set on having his belayer anchored to a tree ~25' back. Not too long later I heard a thump and saw the draw / rope clipped to the first bolt and a draw, but no rope, on the second bolt. Good thing Sand Rock has allot of soft sand at the base of the climb. At one point I talked to him and he professed how he has been climbing for years. I think Darwin has some theories on this. L.J.
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pbjosh
Mar 5, 2003, 6:19 PM
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Unfortunately I missed this scene first hand but heard about it 'round the campfire. Apparently the leader did fall but safely decked each time long before the belayer could feel his weight. josh
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ambler
Mar 5, 2003, 6:22 PM
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Thanks, I like to see photographers get credit. This was Indian Cove last Saturday. How soon will they know that they're famous?
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ljthawk
Mar 5, 2003, 6:23 PM
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Actually the Sand Rock climb I mention above is http://www.imdl.gatech.edu/ljthawk/hobbies/climbing/SR_1/SR_anchors.html As you can see, even the pictures in that link show the bad practise at Sand Rock. I took the pictures because the group blew me off when I recommended they extend the anchors so as to prevent wear. Once I posted the pictures one of their friends recognized them and gave them a "talking to". L.J.
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elvislegs
Mar 5, 2003, 6:35 PM
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pbjosh wrote:
In reply to: Unfortunately I missed this scene first hand but heard about it 'round the campfire. Apparently the leader did fall but safely decked each time long before the belayer could feel his weight. Seriously? You would think that the "first" time hitting the deck would kinda be a tip off huh? Sheesh!
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ambler
Mar 5, 2003, 6:48 PM
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They were safe. Note the Screamers.
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elvislegs
Mar 5, 2003, 7:02 PM
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Yeah, I'm not sure doubling up on screamers really eases the load on the piece, heh. Or is that two screamers in opposition? ...Somewhere, a climbing shop salesman just made employee of the month. :shock:
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tucsonalex
Mar 5, 2003, 7:03 PM
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It's a bit hard to tell from the pictures the link above points too, but it looks like they are top roping through the anchor chains. Not good.
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ljthawk
Mar 5, 2003, 7:53 PM
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In reply to: but it looks like they are top roping through the anchor chains. Not good. Cold Shuts (sp?) L.J.
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ricardol
Mar 5, 2003, 8:14 PM
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this picture was posted to rec.climbing earlier this week -- they wall gumbies on it have been trashed on there already.. -- ricardo
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