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Partner cracklover


Mar 5, 2003, 2:35 PM
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Thought this would amuse. Stolen from a recent post on r.c



In reply to:
We saw these two guys at the Short Wall in Indian Cove this Saturday.
They were aiding Right V Crack. It's a 3-star .10c leaning thin
crack.

http://www.OCF.Berkeley.EDU/~yoav/aidexperts/aidsuperstars.jpg

This was the scene ALL DAY. They got up a maximum of 12 feet, before
the belayer would say something to the effect of "your gear sucks,
come on down". At this point they would down-aid, trade places, and
the process would repeat.

These guys continuously harassed each other with advice. For
instance, the belayer, standing where he is in this picture 20 ft.
away told the climber to place the nut in the other direction (ie.
curved side to the right instead of left). How he could see the
correct orientation of the nut placement from that far is beside me.

Notice the two screamers on the bottom two pieces which are no more
than 3 feet off the ground?

BTW, the climber in the pic outweighs the belayer by at least 100 lbs.

Luckily they never made it higher than 12 feet in 4 attempts. The big
guy had 3 pieces (not consecutive) pull while he was standing on them.
The little guy only pulled one piece in 12 feet.

Anyway, that was my entertainment this Saturday. Thought I'd share.

Crotch

GO


elvislegs


Mar 5, 2003, 2:42 PM
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I think I beat you to it dude.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=27213&forum=36


hroldan


Mar 5, 2003, 3:22 PM
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Sounds like fun!!! watching ren and stimpy climbing!!!. So expensive gear for that???


passthepitonspete


Mar 5, 2003, 3:36 PM
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Holy frig! That's me in the photo. I didn't think anyone knew it was us!


clymber


Mar 5, 2003, 3:47 PM
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i dont know anything about aid climbing but its looking like if that leader takes a fall the belayer will be kissing the rock


jerrygarcia


Mar 5, 2003, 4:25 PM
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Holy frig! That's me in the photo. I didn't think anyone knew it was us!


Pete, please dont tell anyone im the one with the red etriers. Thanks


totigers


Mar 5, 2003, 4:40 PM
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You!!!! I'm pretty sure that was me. I remeber the day, hot, desert conditions, sharp rock and a belayer that I just met.
Hmm!!!!
Syck :D


apollodorus


Mar 5, 2003, 4:46 PM
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The guy on lead is Homer, and Bart is belaying him. Marge, Lisa and Maggie are out picking endangered wildflowers.

A better technique might be to bathe the leader, so the belayer can move closer. Seriously, though, why would the belayer be so far away? Rockfall danger?


cantwinifyoudontplay2003


Mar 6, 2003, 1:32 PM
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The haul bag is also great..... Never know maybe they were also going to try and haul that up and down a few times after they got the aid mastered...


climblouisiana


Mar 6, 2003, 2:31 PM
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I don't see any guns or cheap beer. Maybe they're hidden in the haulbag.


ridgerunner


Mar 6, 2003, 2:43 PM
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E-gads!!!!!! That guy leading is fatter than me. I bet he's got a bad case of gas considering where his belayer is standing.


bigwalling


Mar 6, 2003, 4:41 PM
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There are just learning how to aid. At least they are out there trying.


mexboulder


Mar 6, 2003, 5:32 PM
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maybe they dont know nothing about physics... well maybe me either .. just know if homeros fall, bart is gonna hit on the rock ....... :roll:


godsmybelayer


Mar 6, 2003, 6:05 PM
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Yeah clymber, if that guy falls a whole 4 ft. to the graound....it might actually pull that other guy all 15ft. to the wall and kill him! :roll:


onamission116


Mar 10, 2003, 4:23 PM
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Funny, but I agree that it's good that they're out there trying. That said, they should learn how and where to porperly belay someone before jumping on the 6th class, but thats just me....... :roll:


valygrl


Mar 10, 2003, 4:37 PM
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I saw this exact same belay setup at Pinnacles this weekend - Sunday, on The Regular Route 5.8 on The Monolith. The guy would not have any of my advice about where to stand. Luckily the leader didn't fall on the 20 foot runnout traverse at the top, cause she woulda decked for sure.


grigriese


Mar 10, 2003, 5:30 PM
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Frightening!!! Makes me even more thankful for the climbing partners I have!!! I pray know one posts a photo of me making a climbing a&& out of myself.


kevlar


Mar 15, 2003, 1:24 PM
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Thinks nothing is wrong with picture...

except I would rather see them climbing in " bikini's" the fat one in red ...oh how my heart ....pitter patter...splatt

wow...oh well...I am sure they had a great lunch in the bag... :D :evil:


rocktamer


Mar 15, 2003, 10:14 PM
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:shock: I cant believe that the people next to them did'nt at least clue these guys in .It looks to me that if the big guy concentrates any harder he'll fry his brain or maybe that explanes the screamers and that excellent belay station. of course when I started I used the British method and a 100 foot piece of gold rope so I guess everybody has to start somewhere.


alpinelynx


Mar 15, 2003, 11:04 PM
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wow, I bet all you folks just popped right out of your mamas and sped up the Nose in record time and elegant style.


copperhead


Mar 16, 2003, 12:43 AM
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No, but at least we were born with common sense.

Dynamic belay.


apollodorus


Mar 16, 2003, 2:14 AM
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That picture shows the rare, sliding dynamic belay. The belayer, as he slides along the ground, dissipates the energy of the falling leader. Also known as a face-friction belay, it is all but extinct in North America.


oudinardin


Mar 16, 2003, 2:16 AM
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Poot or Branker instead of Fart please.


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