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kungfuclimber


Mar 5, 2003, 7:43 PM
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Aid climbing footwear
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So I searched and can't find any info. First a little background info.

Last year I was doing a big wall. My partner came down with an acute case of degenerative testicular atrophy. This meant I got to do the leading. Long story short, my shoes were fine (5.10 sneakers) but my big toes and part of my feet were completely numbed out. Standing around in aiders doing strenuous top stepping all day killed the nerves in my feet. It took about 4 months to completly recover.

So I don't want to do that again (the dead nerves part). What footware do you use? I'm less concerned about it lasting forever than I am with preventing the aider straps from cutting circulation. I was thinking os using some really stiff, possibly steel shanked boots but just the though of doing some free moves in those scares me.

Oh, and don't say "get some fish russian aiders".. If I could I would.. seems supply isn't meeting demand :cry:


eclarke98


Mar 5, 2003, 8:07 PM
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I've used my Five Ten Guide Almightys on several shorter aid climbs and they work just fine, plus they have sticky rubber for any free sections. If I were to hop on a wall where I'd be standing in aiders for days at a time, I'd wear a pair of stiff soled boots. I have a pair of Scarpa Freneys that work perfect, but any solid boot should suffice. If you know there's going to be some free sections, be sure to throw in your regular climbing shoes just in case.


Partner euroford


Mar 5, 2003, 8:11 PM
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all of my aid climbing has been done in doc martins. no problems here, but i havn't spent an entire day in them yet. free moves would of course be out of the question.


joebuzz


Mar 5, 2003, 8:15 PM
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Footwear [In reply to]
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For my two cents, I love the LaSportiva Trango+. I actually bought em' for Sierra alpine ice, but they turned out to be great wall boots. They don't smear really, but they edge great. I've done some freeclimbing in them, but they make 5.7 feel more like 5.10. When in your aiders though, they RULE!! You do need to add some extra rubber to the toe area just to prolong their life from scraping against the wall all day.
I know this isn't the place, but I did just solo my first wall in Yos. thanks to our friend Dr. Piton and all his incredible info. It was just the S.Face of the Column, but I was stoked to do it. Thanks again Doc. :wink:


hans


Mar 5, 2003, 10:30 PM
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I'll second joebuzz's vote for the Trango Plus (if you can find a pair - I got mine from Mtn Gear on closeout).

They're pretty big and clunky next to a sneaker or rock shoe, but not really very clunky at all compared to your typical steel-shanked boot.

I wouldn't want to free climb in them, but that's not really what I go up on a wall for anyway. You can stand in aiders in them all day, no problem.

They're also nice approach boots.

But they're ugly as hell.


wigglestick


Mar 6, 2003, 6:47 AM
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5.10 Venturas are what I wear. The are stiffer than other 5.10 shoes and are dirt cheap. I got a pair for 17 dollars. Which makes having them get destroyed at an accelerated pace on the wall tolerable. They are available on the 5.10 website under the Specials section. They climb adequately, not as well as some other softer approach shoes but they still have 5.10 rubber for the occasional desperate free move.

http://www.fiveten.com/products/index.php?action=item&id=39


mrhardgrit


Mar 6, 2003, 7:03 AM
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Don't go with any of the 5.10 guiding/appraoch shoes etc - they are totally crap - they will be wrecked after just one wall. I have seen this happen sooooooo many times. Yes they are quite good for free climbing but so are other brands that don't trump themselves up.

I have a pair of Salamon approach shoes - I've travelled all over the world in them for the last 4 years, a few big walls, hundreds of other aid climbs and they are still fine!


grippedclimber


Mar 6, 2003, 7:44 AM
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The sportiva trango plus's are really great boots, the old baltoro's are even better. These boots will last and last and are great for the approach as well as standing in aiders. I don't have much of a problem free climbing in them either. My friend got his baltoros resoled with 5.10 rubber on the toe and they are awful spiffy. That said, mine wore out after six or so years of hard use. I got a pair of similiar style garmont boots. They blew out after one wall. 180 dollars wasted. I really want the Kayland spider high. Does anyone know where you can buy this boot?


bigdan


Mar 6, 2003, 10:40 AM
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shoes [In reply to]
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i've spent many a long day aiding in just an old pair of trashed nike running shoes that i've had since i was a freshman in high school. i swear they're magical. i once got a pair of those nice 5.10 mountain masters (i think that's what they were), but they blew out in less than a year. but this magical pair of running shoes that i have, they can withstand anything.

honestly, though, i've never understood the need for rigid boots for aiding. i wear soft old stuff and have never had sore feet. i've even been forced to wear velcro slippers for several hours in the aiders, and while it wasn't perfect, it wasn't anything to whine about.

i'd rather have a sneaker or something softer anyway. it makes things more manageable when you have to step out and free something.


trevorolson


Mar 6, 2003, 11:21 AM
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I third the hack on 5.10 approach shoes, maybe the guide series are better, but the mountain masters and their newer sticky rubber approach/trail running shoes are garbage. I am really dissapointed in 5.10, I have liked their rock shoes but their approach shoes are certainly giving the company a bad name.


addiroids


Mar 6, 2003, 11:03 PM
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For free and aid, the La Sportiva BOULDERS are the ticket. I personally have not bought them yet, but have friends who swear by them. The high tops are great too.

TRADitionally yours,

Cali Dirtbag


bigdan


Mar 7, 2003, 11:03 AM
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boulders [In reply to]
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i've heard the boulders are pretty sweet, too


rockmx


Mar 7, 2003, 11:38 AM
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ASOLO Hiking Boots... this are the best for Aid..


copperhead


Mar 7, 2003, 10:51 PM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=22653&highlight=


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