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ezclimber
Mar 6, 2003, 8:16 AM
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Does anyone know the best and cheapest quickdraws? Is it cheaper/safer to buy slings and biners or buy manufactured? What is the best brand and what are good prices? How many does a begginner need?
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asaph
Mar 6, 2003, 8:26 AM
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typical sport climbs will take 10 or under quickdraws. not counting the lockers for the anchor up top. As far as brands etc, as long as they're comfortable for you and CE certified, you should be just fine. Personally I have some DMM quickdraws and some BD Enduro quickdraws. I think the DMM's are prettier, so I use them more often. That should kind of clue you into the importance of brand. Look for something that's gonna work for you.
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godsmybelayer
Mar 6, 2003, 9:42 AM
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If you pay under $14 it is very likely to break on a long fall!!!.............
Just kidding :lol: :lol: :lol: :roll: :wink:
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spydey
Mar 6, 2003, 11:58 AM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2003
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I just bought 18 krabs from sport extreme .com they were about $4 each. they are HB wales wire gates scheck them out.
Peace
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texasclimber
Mar 6, 2003, 2:24 PM
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I bought the Matolius quickdraw set b/c they were cheap, and now I regret it! They are damn heavy and hard to unclip! I would spend the extra money on draws you really want rather than cheap ones. I would recomend BD wiregates. They are light and moderatly priced.
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w6jxm
Mar 6, 2003, 2:28 PM
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You can alway go with the mystery draws from acmeclimbing.com. 7 bucks a peice. You have no idea what you are getting but I have heard that the stuff you get is not bad.
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ikefromla
Mar 8, 2003, 7:46 AM
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i have 8 BD enduros, i love 'em.. but i also really dig the Positron (keylock).. the BD draws are sleek, light, and easy to clip.. they get my vote..
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ezclimber
Mar 9, 2003, 1:38 AM
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what is the best for the money?
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buckyllama
Mar 12, 2003, 5:35 PM
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define "best".
$7 mystery draws will keep your ass off the ground as well as anything else. Who knows what you'll get but really, who cares? They will be CE certified, functional, and safe. everything else is gravy.
Petzl spirit straight gates mated with a spiffy wiregate (I like OP JCs, Many would prefer hotwires) would make any sport climber drool, and will feel and clip great. They will also cost you around $20
DMM Mambas still can't be beat for pure flash factor.
Regardless of what you get, hang some of these from the celing and spend an evening or two watching TV and practicing clipping them with a rope, both directions, both hands. No Joke.
Oh yeah, practice unclipping the rope one-handed as well. Good skill to have.
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christianbennet
Mar 12, 2003, 6:05 PM
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i have a set of 20 draws
straight gate spirt at one end, bd livewire (the big wire w/the thumb catch) at the other
they are the best setup i think for sport, but since they don't make livewires any more i think i would get spirts on both ends, they're not that flashy, but they are super smooth....
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mustclimb69
Mar 12, 2003, 6:06 PM
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CLOG draws are pretty nice and super cheap. Lucky also makes cheap draws but are almost too cheap? 10 are nice to have
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alpinist
Mar 12, 2003, 6:10 PM
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BD wire gates get my vote for best clipping in all conditions.
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vram1974
Mar 12, 2003, 6:51 PM
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You can get a Rock Empire QD sling for $2.50 CDN. A Lucky biner costs $5.00 CDN. So one assembled QD would be $12.50. You can buy cheaper fully assembled, but this way you can mix and match biners from your rack.... If sport is exclusively your thing it's probably best to go with assembled QD's...
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spider_woman
Mar 12, 2003, 6:57 PM
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I carry BD Quickwires, (13.95 ea), and BD Neutrino's (17.95), The Neutrino is lighter, but Quickwires are cheaper, both are excellent choices.
http://www.bittersweetgear.com
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illimaniman
Mar 12, 2003, 7:07 PM
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http://rockempire.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabindex=2&tabid=7&nIdCategory=11
http://climbingshoes.com/html/carabiners_draws.html
Both links offer quickdraw sets for under $10. I have Cassin Eco draws and Faders, to go with a bunch of Metolius and REI QD's that I paid $13-15 for. If anything, I like the cheap ones better, especially compared to the Metolius QD's.
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petsfed
Mar 12, 2003, 7:22 PM
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I actually like the Metolius quickdraws, esp. for trad. I have less experience with sport with them though. The mondo hook on them would make unclipping harder though.
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jt512
Mar 13, 2003, 6:00 AM
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You get what you pay for with carabiners. The expensive ones have higher open-gate strength, are lighter, and are easier to clip than the cheap ones. Most of my carabiners cost $10 each. My life is worth the extra $3 a biner.
-Jay
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rokjunky
Mar 13, 2003, 6:18 AM
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...that's the motto of ACMECLIMBING.COM. i've got Faders wiregates. why spend mo'? i think i paid $7 or $7.50 @.
i used to think that i'd get a good deal on some biners, then get a good deal on some bones and save a few ducets. nah. you're betta off buying the draw at a good price.
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vram1974
Mar 13, 2003, 5:32 PM
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In reply to: You get what you pay for with carabiners. The expensive ones have higher open-gate strength, are lighter, and are easier to clip than the cheap ones. Most of my carabiners cost $10 each. My life is worth the extra $3 a biner.
You raise a good point. Often people, like myself, buy the cheapest brand in order to have more for less. My first rack consisted of the cheapest cams possible: rigid stem friends. Instead of 6 rigid stems, I could have had 2 Black Diamond camalots. For biners, I always bought the $5 kind. The Clogs and Luckys. My new cams are Rock Empire Robot Cams.
However, sometimes there are instances where the quality is not necessarily higher... it's a brand name thing. Yes, Black Diamond makes great equipment, but they are a front-runner in the market and price high. Czech Republic company Rock Empire is able to assemble cheaper peices of equipment which rate at the same or similar strengths.
So when comparing the relative Kn forces of a carabiner, I would agree that spending $3 extra is worth the money if you get a few extra Kn's. But I will not spend more money on a brand name when the stiff competition is driving companies to produce really good, all UIAA high standard equipment. It's not like DMM is selling $5 biners which rate at 4Kn....
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sharpie
Mar 13, 2003, 10:14 PM
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Registered: Nov 8, 2002
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This may not be the chepest QD set out there but it is certainly the best deal for the money on th Web right now.
DMM Eclipse QuickDraws only $14.25.....
http://www.pulldownclimbing.com/catalog.mgi?page=quickdraws
I love DMM Eclipse biners they are soo smooth and soo easy to clip, the DMM WireLocks are also killer, but I can never find those on sale...
:lol:
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jt512
Mar 14, 2003, 1:10 AM
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In reply to: ...all UIAA high standard equipment.
Just keep in mind that the UIAA standard for open-gate strength, 7kN, is less than the force that the biner will experience in a hard fall. Because of this, several manufacturers make biners that significantly exceed this standard. Petzl Spirits are rated to 9.5 kN and DMM Wirelocks to 10 kN. These biners cost around $10, compared to about $7 for the weaker ones. It's like $1 per kN.
-Jay
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greenpartyclimber
Mar 14, 2003, 1:57 AM
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Registered: Jan 10, 2003
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I like my black diamond positrons, but the best hands down are petzal spirits, nothing beats them but they are pretty expensive. I have a rack of 12 draws and that covers just about anything, especially with a locking biner along just in case.
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