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Slippers for narrow cracks?
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traddad


Mar 6, 2003, 5:14 AM
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Slippers for narrow cracks?
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I need a set of narrow (finger) crack slippers. I want a set that are low volume enough in the toe box to accomodate a flat foot position rather than bunched up toes. I now wear anasazis that curl my toes, but when I twist them into narrow cracks it feels like...oh....SCREAMING DEATH! I have a relatively narrow foot so if I get the anasazis a size or so bigger to get a flatter toe, they slide all over my foot when I'm on the odd edge. Anyone have any idea if there is a slipper out there with a narrow, low volume toe box?
Traddad
Brushing up on my Crack-Fu


mountainmonkey


Mar 6, 2003, 1:45 PM
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get a pair of la sportiva mythos that are just barely tight so your toes lay flat, then they will stretch slightly and should be puurfect. they also have a rubber rand to jam on all around your toes. I have had 3 pairs and loved each of them for finger/thin hand cracks. I have also heard that you can do the same with a 5.10 moccasym


petsfed


Mar 6, 2003, 2:45 PM
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Pity that Scarpa discontinued the Minima. Every person I know with a pair (which amounts to about 3 people) love them for all kinds of crack climbing, thin cracks especially.


Partner camhead


Mar 6, 2003, 2:50 PM
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I'm all about the moccasyms. next best thing to going barefoot, with not quite so much pain. I have not yet tried the Mythos, but I have seen more folks on thin cracks at Indian Creek with Moccs.

Just be aware that the moccs stretch more than about any other shoe I have tried, so get them small.


traddad


Mar 7, 2003, 12:22 PM
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Thanks!
I've owned multiple pairs of both the Mocasym and the Mythos and the Mocs tend to twist on my foot while edging.
The mythos was my favorite climbing shoe until they switched manufacturing plants and the toe box got bigger. I figure that if I buy a tight set of Mythos and do the water break in they might just do the trick. Thanks for reminding me of an old friend.


davidji


Mar 7, 2003, 12:38 PM
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In reply to:
The mythos was my favorite climbing shoe until they switched manufacturing plants and the toe box got bigger.

When did this happen? I'm about to buy a new pair, and it will good to know if I might need a different size.

If I find 'em in my size, I'll probably also try the Mad Rock Phoenix.

David


crackaddict


Mar 7, 2003, 7:38 PM
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I have found that the boreal Zens work well for me on all types of climbing. They work well on finger cracks at Pardise Forks and at Indian Creek too.

Later..


traddad


Mar 8, 2003, 5:27 AM
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The toe box got bigger on the Mythos back in the 90's. I don't know if that's still true but I was told it was to accomodate the "American foot". Euro's must think we're all a bunch of cornfed, flat footed Baby Hueys.


dangermonkey


Mar 9, 2003, 10:28 PM
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I have been using anasazi velcros and moccasyms as my main shoes. I just picked up another pair of moccasyms, sized a half size larger than my others, intended as crack shoes this year.


onamission116


Mar 10, 2003, 9:44 AM
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Moccasyms are hands down the best shoe out there. I've used them on trad, gym, everything. they do stretch: I have a 10.5 size foot,a nd 9s are just about right. They are cheap too (as far as climbing stuff goes) at $99


pbjosh


Mar 10, 2003, 9:53 AM
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Moccasyms and Mythos are definately the two thin crack shoes of choice. Seems like Moc's are a desert phenomenon and Mythos a California thing.

I find Mythos are THE shoe of choice on 95% of granite routes. For miserably thin/steep stuff sport-weenie shoes come into play but I'm not really a sport weenie. Moc's would probably work pretty well and I know many people who swear by them. They probably friction better than Mythos but they sure don't edge as well.

I've seen more than a couple of people wearing Miuras and Cobras in thin cracks but I guess it depends on the shape of your foot.

josh


mreardon


Mar 10, 2003, 10:27 AM
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5.10 zlipper is my shoe of choice for the cracks. Mocs are the best for bouldering and easy trad, unless it's multi-pitch then I make sure to wear a lace up because there is nothing worse than a shoe that slips off on the third pitch!


texplorer


Mar 10, 2003, 10:38 PM
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I have a couple of pair of both mythos and mocasyms. For me the mythos's lace eyelets on the toes dig into my toes when climbing thin cracks. That when I use my oversized mocs. Like you traddude my feet are narrow and swim in the mocs but I know guys that climb .13's in the desert and they even will curl their toes up and just stick in the tips of their shoes in smaller cracks. Its almost cheating I think but its true.

In my case I usually use the mocs to climb cracks unless there will be some face moves or delicate edging in which case I fall back on the mythos with 5.10 resoles.


antimatter


Mar 11, 2003, 10:03 AM
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I really like Mocs for thin cracks. There's not much extra lacing, last, etc. to get in the way of getting your feet in the crack. After you convince yourself that it's not the worst pain you've ever felt, and "Jesus, I'd rather just climb 5.8," it's all good.


vram1974


Mar 11, 2003, 10:16 AM
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cam head said :

In reply to:
Just be aware that the moccs stretch more than about any other shoe I have tried, so get them small.

Very true. My moccasyms were bought so painfully tight that I could not be in them for longer than 30 seconds when I bought them. But now they can stay on all day. This is because the leather stretches and fits to your foot.

traddad said:

In reply to:
I've owned multiple pairs of both the Mocasym and the Mythos and the Mocs tend to twist on my foot while edging

This is why I got the Anasazi Velcros. The moccasyms kept twisting on me while edging, leading me to utter frustration sometimes! I got the Anasazi Velcros at size 9 US, same as I bought my Moccasyms for several years ago, but with different results: The Anasazis are synthetic, so there is little to no stretching done. You have to size them right when you buy them. They are so painful that I only use them for bouldering or short sport routes.

I bought a pair of LaSportiva Cliffs for trad a couple of years ago, and overall I felt the performance was mediocre. The midsole is strong, but the shoe seems to fall apart the same in general. I have seen the same sole deterioration on all Cliffs which have been turned in for resole at my gym. I have not tried the Boreal Ballet Gold (which I think is the nextgen Boreal Aces), but I intend to get a pair this summer.

As for thin cracks, I did not use my moccasyms in Squamish, but I noticed a lot of the local hardmen using them, much to my surprise! Silly me, I thought their best utility was gym climbing.


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