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silk5138
Mar 8, 2003, 3:44 AM
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Were you good when you climbed in your first comp? How long had you been climbing before you entered?
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retrock
Mar 8, 2003, 4:22 AM
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I'm in the same boat as you. I have not competed yet but it sounds like fun. Friends say it's worth it for the gear you can win. Most of my climbing is outdoors, 5.8 average but have climbed 5.10 one pitch lead climb. Will anyone give me the low down on what the rules are for indoor comp?
Thanks!
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carnaged
Mar 8, 2003, 4:45 AM
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that depends on how you interpret "good" or not. my first comp was last year, November 2001, and I had only been climbing since September. It was really fun, and I didn't care how well I did, because it was a lot of fun, and I don't regret coming in second to last at all :P
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vram1974
Mar 8, 2003, 5:42 AM
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I entered the Dec 7 Windsor ABS comp. I think I was 8th in intermediate. I was shocked at how many amazing climbers are out there, and just at the local level! I then did the Jan 12 Ottawa comp and got even more surprised. Watching guys like Sonnie Trotter and Maxime Gauthier climb was cool. I finished somewhere near last. I did the Feb 1 comp in Niagara Falls, and it was pretty decent. I got tired and didn't place well. My last comp in Kingston on Mar 1 was fun, and I finished 7th. Each comp was interesting because I tried a wide variety of problems, got to watch others climb, and got to guage my strengths and weaknesses. Comps are fun in many ways... although they tend to be very crowded and you need a lot of patience.
For people near Ontario, the May 4th comp in JRH, Toronto, is gonna be amazing. Check it out.
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vaness
Mar 8, 2003, 9:41 PM
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it was at boulder mortys on march 30th. it was fun. there were only 4 people there and i got 1st.
i was climbing for a little less than a year
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beercanclimber
Mar 8, 2003, 9:53 PM
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i've been thinking bout climbing in a comp, but was curious about the diff levels. what constitutes intermediate level? is it based on the competitiors or is it a set thing, like if you climb a route over v4 your advanced? i'm not sure how the whole thing works.
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vaness
Mar 9, 2003, 3:30 AM
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usully they will tell you what you should climb in each level...if they dont just ask when you register and see what other people are doing...
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brianthew
Mar 9, 2003, 3:51 AM
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Heh...I just had my first comp and man did I mess up....oh well, it was just an informal comp at the UMN....all about fun, and I still won cool stuff.
However I don't think I really want to do comps again...the reason I got into climbing was so I could find an activity that didn't require direct competition (as did all the ones I did when I started) and would like to keep it that way. I have way more fun cragging and such with friends.
And too answer a question above, they usually give guidelines as to which level is which. If you sandbag yourself and enter the beginners despite your recent send of your V12 project they will simply move you up automatically once you start getting a bazillion points. Happened to one of my friends who thought since he was newish to climbing he should be a novice, but beat the next best novice by about 300 points and was hence moved to intermediate.
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novus-ordotw
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Mar 9, 2003, 3:57 AM
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i just climbed my first comp last mounth. it was a bolderign comp i came second. the person that bet me wooped my a$$ by the person that came first (55 compared to his 65) i still got some woot stuf :mrgreen: and i bet the person i wanted to. the comp was in age groups adn mixed why did it have to be mixed :evil:
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ikefromla
Mar 9, 2003, 5:03 AM
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i sucked in my first comp (jcca a few years back). i took a few years off though, and in the two comps i've participated in this year (USCCA) i've placed first in my age group. i love competition because it allows you to push yourself and hang out with a bunch of other climbers in a fun setting.. word up to comps
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justindonnell
Mar 9, 2003, 6:21 AM
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Hey i was just in my first comp, I had so much fun. I thought I had climbed like crap but I ended up winning the begginers division. Just go out and have as much fun as you can. You may end up doing better than you think you can.
Justin
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aussierookie
Mar 9, 2003, 8:04 AM
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Had my first comp yesterday!! It was technical on site. 2 heats, top 7 went into the finals. I've been climbing for about a year, indoors only. Can climb 23 (5.11??). I qualified 2nd (behind my climbing partner), and naturally was the second last to climb in the final. Problem was it was on a very very long roof. I'd never done roof climbing before. Needless to say I didn't top out :-(
FINISHED 2nd though!!!!!
Loved every second of it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- JK
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vram1974
Mar 9, 2003, 4:49 PM
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In reply to: i've been thinking bout climbing in a comp, but was curious about the diff levels. what constitutes intermediate level? is it based on the competitiors or is it a set thing, like if you climb a route over v4 your advanced? i'm not sure how the whole thing works.
I found that in the Ontario comps I've been to, a climber who can do V6 is pretty "middle-of-the-road". To have a shot at winning open you need to be able to do V8/9 consistently. I mean, for the Ottawa comp there was Sonnie Trotter, a guy who has redpointed almost every .14 in Canada. So sometimes the competition can be stiff.
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laura
Mar 11, 2003, 1:56 AM
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How good do you have to be to be in an ABS comp? Can you enter even if you climb, like, a V2? I was just wondering because I wanted to enter one to see what it would be like, and it sounds like fun, but I'm not a great climber.
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madriver
Mar 11, 2003, 2:25 AM
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Laura wrote........
In reply to: How good do you have to be to be in an ABS comp? Can you enter even if you climb, like, a V2? I was just wondering because I wanted to enter one to see what it would be like, and it sounds like fun, but I'm not a great climber.
ABS Comps should be rated. Example-ABS has a system similar to movies.
G-Kid rated friendly (routes set for all ages and sizes)
PG-PG/13 Beginner friendly
Up to R- (National comp final) major hard /Nationals are going to be open for all this year
All gyms are a little different, but in general the lower rated or G comps are kid friendly or beginner. The gym should should also have a guidline of where there problems are set. They might have a guideline that says up to V2 Beginner/ V3-V5 Intermediate/ V-6 up Advanced. Also a Under 14 catogory. As for route a competition check out the USCCA web site and the ABS web site (Rockcomps.com) has both links. So look on the ABS web site for your comps rating and more info about the rating system
Good luck and have fun. Let us know how you do.
Bob :D
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squirrelgirl
Mar 11, 2003, 2:39 AM
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My first comp was at the same little climbing gym I go to now. I wasn't very good and I didn't have any climbing shoes, but I still did well. I got a $10 gift certificate to the REI. I'd have to say that was the day that I chose to become more deeply involved in rockclimbing. One of the belayers at the comp was the coach of the climbing team that practiced there. He invited me to join, and I've been climbing there almost every Monday since then. Oops! I'm reminicing aren't I? :roll:
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vram1974
Mar 11, 2003, 4:22 PM
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In reply to: ABS Comps should be rated. Example-ABS has a system similar to movies.
I like the protection ratings in trad being similar to movies... but the ABS usually has various levels based upon your own judgement of yourself. There is usually a beginner, intermediate or open. Sometimes they have Elite, Masters, or Juniors.
I think the ABS format already works, although I would like to see some kind of cohesiveness to the league itself. Right now it's just a collection of climbing gyms holding comps. The V-scale ratings are usually highly subjective, too. Some competitions I have been to did not have a master setter, so the routes were soft sometimes, and sandbagged in others.
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hroldan
Mar 11, 2003, 4:42 PM
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My first comp was way baaaad... it was about speed climbing. I had like 5 months climbing and don't know why but i was very good at speed climbing. (well, you know, the holds are bigger.)
Well, there i was, waiting for my turn, (i'm tall, 1.90 mts) it was your call on how to start but for us, the last group, we were force to use an especififc start, you know, left hand here, right there, left foot there bla bla bla.
Everyone where so little that the start helped them, for me it was s#it because it was very unconfortable move to do, besides, unbalanced for me.
So I started late, with seconds against me. Later, I took a fall and lucky me, i could grab a hold with my left hand, recover, and continue climbing. The judges saw that i didn't used the rope so i was able of finish the comp.
In the second part (switching walls, mirror walls) I got better but my first timing sucked so i had an average of like 11 secs in a 15 mt wall with two tries. :(
At the gym i was very good but the stress among other things ruined all. At the end, speed climbing was't as fun as technical stuff so i won't go on speed climbing again.
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elguapo
Mar 11, 2003, 5:08 PM
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yeah, man. comps rule. I was in my first one at my school's climbing wall. It was really relaxed and everyone was having fun. they broke it up into beginner average and advanced, and somehow I got stuck in advanced. They had kids sending .12s easy, and I got myself a few .10b flashes, so I was happy. Really looking forward to the Petzl Roc Comp in April at Earth Treks, which is quickly becoming my local gym(i spend a lot of time in baltimore). Go to comps. Compete if you can, otherwise it's the best show in town. peace
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cloudbreak
Mar 11, 2003, 5:12 PM
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My first was a bouldering comp just this past January on Super Bowl Sunday.....appropriately called "The Super-Bowl Crank". It was a blast! I didn't enter to win, just for fun and all. I had a bunch of friends that entered as well, so it was just a great time. Then when they gave out awards, I found out I had placed 2nd in the Men's Intermediate division. I was soooo stoked!
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alvchen
Mar 12, 2003, 8:11 PM
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I'm far from being a strong climber, I can barely do V2s, but I still entered a bouldering comp this last january. I ended up doing not too bad, 4th place in my division.
I was absolutely amazed at the problems I was able to send. For me, I had adrenaline flowing like mad, I could barely feel pain and the endurance of a horse. Once the comp was over, though, I was dead for a week.
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merlin
Mar 19, 2003, 1:53 AM
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i got my first comp coming up in 2 weeks. some boulder day or something, u know with gift certificates and the like. but there is this rave on the night before an hour out of town or something... so im not sure how ill go, but its meant to be pretty informal, so i shall hope for the best...
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--natural_mystic--
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Apr 13, 2003, 8:20 PM
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well i entered a comp last year.. it was really a lot of fun :D
i was in open .. and i can in second !!
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moeman
Apr 13, 2003, 8:43 PM
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I just won a pair of shoes and a chalkbag in a comp. A friend of mine got a crashpad.
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its_me
May 23, 2003, 1:31 PM
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Hey! I'm Laura, from before, but I couldn't log on with that name. I entered a comp and was the only one in my division, so I won. And I also lost, LOL. The comp I went to was really informal, and it was just like fun bouldering at the gym without those annoying kids at parties. The routes were great too!
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