|
|
|
|
socialclimber
Dec 15, 2001, 1:01 PM
Post #1 of 5
(2193 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2001
Posts: 1163
|
Thats a quote from my 3 year old, kinda fits for this post too. I had a bloody good day climbing today, I did my first on-sight, my first two new route and my first trad lead. The numbers aint big, the first route might make grade 16(5.8), it's a grubby, wandering off-width crack that I have called "Plug and Pray". I'm sure there was a degree of luck involved being my first natural lead(that was the on-sight). I have previously done the second line on a top rope but it's not been lead before today, it's a large flake for laying back on, to a ledge then continue on the flake to the top.The shape and colour of the main flake reminded me of a giant cornflake so I called it "Cereal Killer" it would be about grade 14(5.7)
I know my two pissant routes aint gonna stand the climbing world on it's head but it's an exponential lift in performance for me and I'm rapt!
[ This Message was edited by: socialclimber on 2001-12-16 01:03 ]
|
|
|
|
|
talons05
Dec 15, 2001, 2:20 PM
Post #2 of 5
(2193 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2001
Posts: 1435
|
Haha. Good job dude. Those sound like some really fun climbs with some bitchin' names.
AW
|
|
|
|
|
missedyno
Dec 15, 2001, 5:16 PM
Post #3 of 5
(2193 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2001
Posts: 4465
|
technician: lol
social climber: congrats
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Dec 15, 2001, 6:14 PM
Post #4 of 5
(2193 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
Oi! A kiwi! "G'die, mite!"
Return to Hoser accent:
Like how's it goin', eh? Aw, dude! What a bitchin' day!
You only get ONE chance at an on-sight first ascent, and you did it the right way. You're no piker, mite!
Will this stand the climbing world on its head? Not exactly. But today you did something far more important.
Today you made history.
Today you made the First Ascent of a New Route, and you have climbed something that has never been climbed before. You have proved yourself to be an explorer in a world where true exploration is rare. You have done something only the intrepid few will seek out, and even fewer will achieve.
[Aside: I find the concept of "to-die" a difficult one when I'm talkin' to me mites in Oz and Kiwiland. I've never quite understood that International Date Line thingy.....if I were Santa Claus, I'd probably end up in New Zealand (on my surfboard, of course) a die lite on the evening of December 25th, leaving all the little kiddies crying in their Vegemite. Crikey! No wonder your birds have no wings.]
If you have any more secret projects that you are saving for a first ascent, and should anyone ask you where you are going to climb your secret projects, then you can tell them you are "up the boohai shooting pukekos with a long-handled shovel, eh?"
Twenty years from now people will look at the guidebook and see your route and your name as its first ascensionist. One day you may be at the cliff or the [shudder] climbing gym and when someone learns your name, they'll say,
"Dude! I just climbed Plug and Pray! I can't believe you are the guy who put it up! You look so old and decrepit I can scarcely imagine you walking let alone ever having climbed anything," or words to that effect.
[Well, people say stuff like that to me all the time...]
And a hundred years from now your name will still be in the guidebook.
In my opinion, what you achieved today is far more significant than if you had led your first 5.13 sport route. 5.13's get led every day, but how often does anyone get the chance to make a first ascent?
Dr. Pee'd On offers his heartiest congratulations for a job well done.
Now please excuse me while I go read the piper and grab a cold one from the chilly bin.
Your cackhanded Hoser mite who has caved and climbed with many Kiwis,
Pete
Oi, Sheila just arrived. Time to give me ferret a run before we head off to the bun-fight!
P.S. And every Kiwi would know the benefits of giving your ferret a run:
It puts a ROOOOOSE in EV-'RY CHEEEEEEEEK!
[Be sure to click HEAR THE TUNE in the link above]
|
|
|
|
|
socialclimber
Dec 16, 2001, 10:01 AM
Post #5 of 5
(2193 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2001
Posts: 1163
|
You desrve a Happy little Vegemite Award for your post, Pete. Nice accent too. Couldn't pick it from the locals.
In my heart I agree with your philosophy of ground up on-sights and waiting for the right time to do the ascent but in the real world, or at least in my world which seems more like a parody of the real world, a new line just won't wait around that long. In our 1997 guide book there were 1040 routes documented in the port hills, I was talking to the author of that book a few days ago(that would be a few days ago+1 for you Pete), he's become the defacto keeper of route info since publication, he tells me there are now 1400+ routes. Thats 360 new routes in 3-4 years(7.5 routes per month average). So, finally, my point is: there are alot of climbers aroung Christchurch eating up new rock as fast as they can find it. I think this is a major reason why people arn't prepared to wait til they are capable of a ground up on-site.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
