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eclarke98
Mar 14, 2003, 6:25 AM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2001
Posts: 127
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Does anyone have reccomendations of some aid climbs at Lover's Leap or the surrounding Lake Tahoe area. I just have the old Carville guide book and it lists very few aid routes. Thanks.
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joebuzz
Mar 14, 2003, 7:52 AM
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Registered: Aug 5, 2002
Posts: 107
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If your going to be in Sac. for a while, drive up to Donner Summit rather than The Leap for good aid routes. I lived in Truckee for a long time and learned to aid up at Donner. The most important thing is: These are all free climbs, they all go clean and any nailing is Absolutely Out OF The Question! Start at Snowshed Wall at Donner. Try Molar Concentration, Carl's Gym, Peter Principle and Crack of the Eighties. There is a classic over at N. Star Wall called "Star Wars Crack", it goes free at 5.13 but can be aided at C1/2. It's straight in crack, but overhung to maybe 120 degrees.
There is also a four pitch route on Black Wall called "Imaginary Voyage". This is a great full day affair. Be careful, there is groudfall potential on the first pitch traverse over a ledge( Again, NO NAILING!).
Finally, I did what I believe to be a first ascent a couple of years ago just west of Donner( closer to Sac.), that I would love someone to repeat. It is on a total "Choss Pile" of a wall and is All Nailing. If interested, take the Rainbow Lodge turnoff, find the lodge and keep going west for a mile, no more than two. You will see an 80- 100 ft. wall on the right, in between the East & Westbound lanes of I-80. Find a "thin seam" that runs top to bottom on the climber's left of the wall. I left a couple of fixed heads at around 70 ft. It may or may not have been done since I was there, the heads may be gone. The route is all nailing on tied-off blades, rurps, peckers,etc. There are maybe two semi-dependable pieces in 90 ft. I think Dr. Piton would rate it PDH/DFU, It has Serious Groundfall potential so be careful. I'd be stoked for someone to repeat it just to tell me what they thought.
Mostly, just go have some fun. Remember, except for the last these are all free climbs, so respect them as such.
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