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timpanogos
Mar 14, 2003, 2:12 AM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935
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Hey, is there anyone in the SLC area that might have a portaledge that I could borrow or rent for a week?
I have disappeared off into a very stressfull work stint that will be done in about 3 weeks (I'm off to Japan first thing in the Morning). Been working crazy hours. If Andrew does not have Plans for me when I get back, I want to go for another solo attempt somewhere - Pete style - a pitch a day if I have to.
Thanks in advance for any help in finding me a loaner/renter.
Chad
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bigwalling
Mar 14, 2003, 2:43 AM
Post #2 of 12
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
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Why the HELL Pete style? Climbing stuff that slow is a waste! One pitch a day is nuts. If it takes you a full day to lead a normal A3 pitch you have some issues.
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euroford
Mar 14, 2003, 3:03 AM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
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i say why not, maximize your vertical camping pleasure.
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timpanogos
Mar 14, 2003, 3:05 AM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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Well, yea, I guess I have issues.
I've only been out a few times at local crags aid climbing. April 15th or so will be my 1st year anniversary in the climbing sport. I did a solo attempt of Prodigal Son a little while back and was just too slow – only got first pitch in a day, and only had 2 days to climb it – I bailed.
Yea I know anybody can climb Prodigal in a day. But me, I figure it might be my crash course in really perfecting a system for me, and getting my speed up, but go ready to hit the top, even if I’m slow as heck for the first couple of pitches until I work things out.
Anyway, I’m cooked from 16-hour days for the last month or so, and need to get lost with some comp. Time when I get back from Japan.
I am also interested in joining someone that might be looking for a partner Mid April on. Just need to get away – and another solo attempt does sound good – I’d like to succeed this time and go ready to spend what ever time is needed to be so.
Chad
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epic_ed
Mar 14, 2003, 4:01 AM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
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Was wondering where you've been. Good to see you back. So I guess you never bought that BD double, huh? Probably a good call. If I lived closer, I'd let you use mine. Probably not worth the shipping cost, though. PM me if you want to discuss.
Ed
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apollodorus
Mar 16, 2003, 4:31 AM
Post #6 of 12
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
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The PTPP method is NOT to take all day to lead one pitch of A3. It's to get up late, drink coffee, eat. Snooze. Play the boombox. Drink more coffee. Get up, decide it's still too cold, and get back in the sleeping bag. Late morning: finally get out of the sleeping bag. Do one or two pitches, maybe fix, or maybe haul and set up the next bivi. Cook dinner (that's what the stove's for, eh?), eat, drink an OE or Guiness, and fall asleep.
Some people think that PTPP doesn't do climbs on the NW face of Half Dome because of the Death March approach. That's NOT the main reason. The main reason, is that the sun doesn't hit that face until late afternoon, and only for a very short time. So, he would be stranded in his sleeping bag at the same bivi for days at a time.
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mesomorf
Mar 16, 2003, 5:09 AM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2002
Posts: 397
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Not to be a PTPP detractor once removed, but Half Dome has a south face too.
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copperhead
Mar 16, 2003, 7:09 AM
Post #8 of 12
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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In reply to: The PTPP method is NOT to take all day to lead one pitch of A3. It's to get up late, drink coffee, eat. Snooze. Play the boombox. Drink more coffee. Get up, decide it's still too cold, and get back in the sleeping bag. Late morning: finally get out of the sleeping bag. Do one or two pitches, maybe fix, or maybe haul and set up the next bivi. Cook dinner (that's what the stove's for, eh?), eat, drink an OE or Guiness, and fall asleep. Some people think that PTPP doesn't do climbs on the NW face of Half Dome because of the Death March approach. That's NOT the main reason. The main reason, is that the sun doesn't hit that face until late afternoon, and only for a very short time. So, he would be stranded in his sleeping bag at the same bivi for days at a time.
Thank you for proving our point. Now how about those stainless rivets...?
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apollodorus
Mar 16, 2003, 10:47 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
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Both TRs I've read about the South Face of Half Dome ended in near-death and helicopter rescues. That side must be jinxed.
The rivet reply belongs in the rivet thread.
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poindexter
Mar 17, 2003, 6:15 PM
Post #10 of 12
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Registered: Oct 30, 2002
Posts: 11
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If it is going to take you 8 days to do a trade route like prodigal sun, all I got to say is I will be in the bar 7 days earlier than you.
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bigdan
Mar 17, 2003, 11:58 PM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2002
Posts: 142
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fast or slow, good luck.
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climbhigher
Apr 4, 2003, 2:45 AM
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Registered: Dec 6, 2002
Posts: 224
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Good LUCK!!! Timpognas. Who cares how long it takes!!! What my wall partner and i always say is "Don't come back until it's done!!!"
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