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What is the best Trad Shoe?
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jay_climbingchick


Mar 16, 2003, 10:18 AM
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What is the best Trad Shoe?
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I was wondering what the best trad shoe is? I am just starting out and I have one other pair for sport but I heard that there is a shoe made for Trad. Can you help me anyone? :D


Partner camhead


Mar 16, 2003, 11:54 AM
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word.

most folks seem to go with the mythos for a good comfortable but high performance all around-er. If you are thinking moderate but long routes, you may want one of the glorified approach shoes such as the 5.10 Huecos.

Personally, however, I prefer comfortably sized Moccasyms. nice enough to wear al day, but they can still crank in the occasional hard crack. get them one size smaller than your street shoe, and they will stretch to comfortable perfection.


jerrygarcia


Mar 16, 2003, 12:49 PM
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Boreal aces. It really depends on your feet. Do not buy shoes online that you havent tried on already.


shortfatoldguy


Mar 16, 2003, 1:58 PM
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I like my 5.10 Ascents for trad. They're not all that precise (like that would matter to me, climbing trad), but they smear well and are very comfy in cracks.


onamission116


Mar 18, 2003, 6:12 AM
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I've heard good things about Mythos, but personally I have found that after I broke in my 510 Moccasyms they were GREAT. Nice and cheap (relativly) and they stick like glue. Highly recommend them.


crag


Mar 18, 2003, 4:03 PM
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Best trad shoe: Best Fit for all day climbing :lol:
I've used the Scarpa Edge, The 5.10 Newton with no complaints.


dsafanda


Mar 18, 2003, 4:10 PM
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I'm a bit surprised to hear others mention Moccasyms but I have to agree. That's my favorite shoe for Yosemite.


vegastradguy


Mar 18, 2003, 4:16 PM
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I love my Huecos, although i dont use them for approaches. They are killer for descents, though. I dont need to carry up a pair of shoes for the walk off (Red Rocks walk offs suck).

They're the most comfy shoe, and perform well on the rock. Make me happy.


markf


Mar 18, 2003, 4:32 PM
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I hope this doesn't sound sarcastic, but the best shoe for any kind of climbing is the one that fits your feet best. The Boreal Ace is a well made, comfortable shoe that fits a lot of people well, and works really well in cracks and on vertical or less than vertical climbs, which is what a lot of trad climbing is. They're a little on the pricey side, and they very seldom are discounted, but they're also durable enough that they can be resoled a couple of times before they are worn out.


crack_head


Mar 18, 2003, 5:01 PM
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what about the miuras? anyone used those for trad?


joerockclimbs


Mar 19, 2003, 1:31 PM
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I own a pair of the Mythos that a few have talked about and I like them, but I also have a pair of Scarpa Dominators (the old Purple ones) and I like the precise toe that they give me.


venezuela


Mar 22, 2003, 2:26 PM
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I have the La sportiva MYTHOS, and i love them.
my best-friend/mentor/bud/climbing-teacher......has a pair of Boreal Aces. before, he had a Mythos, and he didn't dislike them. he thinks they're great, but he thinks that the Aces are better.

Diego


ajkclay


Mar 24, 2003, 4:41 AM
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I just love climbing in my scarpa dominators- (the new grey ones), I used to have aces, but they sucked on anything edgey or overhung.

However, on a multipitch that took 4 hours a few weeks ago, the comfort of aces would have been nice :lol: (I took the dominators off at each belay :lol: )

My second was wearing his dominator v's, and boy did he wish he'd worn his aces :lol: :lol: :lol:


slab-dyno
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Mar 25, 2003, 5:53 PM
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I've have to go with markf on this one. It's all about the shoe that fits best, suits your style of climbing, and is comfortable. Personally, I've had a lot of luck with the Mythos, and I'm thinking of giving the Newtons a try.

Jimmy


Partner missedyno


Sep 11, 2003, 5:41 AM
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should i buy the 5.10 newtons [In reply to]
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aaaaaah! i don't think i've ever started my own shoe thread, and i'm trying not to by bringing this one back up.

my current "trad" shoes are just a reeeeeally old pair from when i first started climbing. comfortable(ish), nonsticky rubber, sole peeling off... i really don't want to invest in a resole for these guys.

so i was looking at the 5.10 newton. looks like it would be great for crack climbing and comfortable for multipitch.


holmeslovesguinness


Sep 11, 2003, 7:05 AM
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Re: should i buy the 5.10 newtons [In reply to]
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Newtons are definitely a comfortable all day shoe if you size them right, good alternative to Aces I would imagine. I especially like the extra support in the midsole when I'm doing wide cracks. They also stink like crazy, but it's a small price to pay.


herm


Sep 11, 2003, 7:13 AM
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The Sportiva Kaulkulators are a great meat and potatoes crack climbing shoe, and they face climb well. A trad shoe should be comfy, and be a little beefier than what you would wear for sport climbing.
5.10 Ascents are good. Boreal has been making trad shoes as long as most climbers have been around, check them out, too.


froggy


Sep 11, 2003, 8:31 AM
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Moccasyms for everything.. As long as you don't need to edge on small things for a long way (Toulmne) - something stiffer would be easier on your feet for sure, but for the most part I love my Moccasyms and Zlippers.


tylerm


Sep 11, 2003, 9:03 AM
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best shoe for trad [In reply to]
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I loved my murias for trad, or any type of climbing for that matter. Once they were broken in, they were perfect for all-day stuff. The only problem is they can be a bit daunting on the toes, however that is the comprimise for having a great shoe. They also lasted me for about 2-3 full years (w/2 resoles) until I finally busted out the toes. Best shoe I've ever owned.


okcdirtbag


Sep 11, 2003, 9:05 AM
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I'm right there with ya, my muirras are the best freakin shoes i've climbed in!


punk


Sep 11, 2003, 9:13 AM
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kodos to herm,
Kaulk's, syncro's and 5.10 ascend are the bomb


caughtinside


Sep 11, 2003, 9:37 AM
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I've got Newtons and dig em. I've had them longer, but they seem to fit my feet better than the moccasyms I've got.

Yes, they do stink like crazy, and they do not stretch much at all.

Oh, and I had to get a second pair because the first ones I got had a few defects in the rubber. Free replacement though.


petsfed


Sep 11, 2003, 10:52 AM
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For most cracks, Mythos, Aces, Spires, Cliffs, any already mentioned work just grand. However (and this is a real pet peeve of mine) there are few good off-width shoes. My regular shoes (Sportiva Katanas) are great at thin seams up to off-hands, but cannot heel and toe jam worth beans. You will note by my location that off-widthing is necessary, nay, recommended to enjoy oneself at Vedauwoo. So here's what I've found works well for wide cracks: exceedingly soft shoes. I use 5.10 moccassyms. My partner uses third resole 5.10 spires. Get 'em well broken in so you can flex and smear easily. The jam comes from strong feet, not strong shoes. Shoes that excell for edging tend to suck it up for offwidthing. And if you can edge inside the off-width, well, you're not getting the full experience now are you?


tendertendons


Sep 16, 2003, 11:40 AM
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I've got the 5.10 Newtons and they're sized to accomodate a thin pair of lycra socks (thus eliminating the stinkin' problem that others here are complaining about). Best heel fit I could find and comfy all day too. I really like the edging ability of these shoes and for my style of climbing they're great for getting solid footwork when setting pro. Got the Dragons for sport climbing and they saw me from 5.9 through 5.11+ but are pretty much toast now.
Great shoes both... but for different applications.


acrofobic


Sep 16, 2003, 12:24 PM
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I really like my EBs from 1976. They seem to be really sticky and great in cracks. :lol:

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