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blueeyedclimber
Mar 18, 2003, 12:41 PM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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My girlfriend and I are going to begin trad this spring and we want to climb a multipitch by the end of the summer. Both of us have followed multipitches but neither of us has lead. We need to build up or rack. We have a full set of nuts, a few hexes, a couple cams(we need more), a tri-cam and about 15 quickdraws, along with tons of slings. My question is what are some of the best beginning trad routes in the Northeast? We were thinking of Mt. Katahdin in Maine. Any other suggestions?
Josh
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adamwvt
Mar 18, 2003, 1:52 PM
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Registered: Apr 1, 2002
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Hey bud, good luck in your multipitch exploits. Did you know Khatadin is futher north that Montreal? Thats a haul. here are some great climbs on Cannon , NH, althogh it may not be the best place for getting the hang of things on. There are hundreds of 2-6 pitch climbs in the Adirondacks, where I love to spend my summer. If you make it up here, don't forget your helmet, and be ready to make your own belays. Id ditch your quickdraws if I were you.
Trad is Rad :D
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onamission116
Mar 18, 2003, 2:10 PM
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Two words: Cathedral Ledge. It is a great place to start trad, thats where I learned. There are plenty of easy-moderate stuff. Thin Air is a four pitch 5.6 that many new leaders do as their first mulitpitch trad climb. And there are usually plent of locals who are willing to help you out or go up with you if it's your first time leading. Good luck!
:) :)
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danl
Mar 18, 2003, 2:11 PM
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Registered: Nov 12, 2001
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Cathedral whitehorse or the gunks are all good places to learn
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cracklover
Mar 18, 2003, 6:32 PM
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Cathedral. Absolutely. And Thin Air is a perfect first choice. It was my first multi-pitch trad lead as well. PM me if you want any more info.
The Gunks is great, too, but both more exposed and more of a gym-like atmosphere (you don't want someone breathing down your back on your first lead). It's also more of a full weekend than a day-trip from the Boston area.
GO
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drkodos
Mar 18, 2003, 6:41 PM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2002
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Two words for NE beginning lead climbing.
Da Gunks....
Easy to avoid people breathing down one's neck. here's how:
1. 80% percent of people climb 20% of the climbs. Don't be obsessive about hitting the three star classics.
2. Climb during weekdays. 70% of usage is on Fri, sat, sun.
New Hampshire Granite is awesome, world class, and I don't mean to rag it, but Gunks geology is easier to protect and the "Beginner" climbs are unbelievable in their number, their excellent climbing and the type of exposure that one usually needs to climb 5.10 to realize.
In most areas, the majority of routes in the under 5.7 category tend to be the Mtn's poop shute. At the Gunks, the MAJORITY of all climbs tend to be very clean and provide aesthetic climbing and sublime views. The "easy/beginner" routes are not the exception that they are at most areas.
A few routes that are less then heavily traveled and more than worthwhile:
Casa Emilio 5.2
Easy Verschneidung 5.2
Shockley's Without 5.3
Little White Mushroom 5.3
Arch 5.4
Eowyn 5.4
Asphodel 5.5
Double Chin 5.5
Credibilty Gap 5.6
Moonlight 5.6
In the Groove 5.6
All are multipitch, easy access climbs that are fantastic.
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cracklover
Mar 18, 2003, 7:42 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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I don't mean to get in an argument. Drkodos is absolutely right about the number of high-class easy to moderate trad routes at the Gunks. However, if you do decide to hit NH, there really are a great collection of high quality low-difficulty routes to be had. I'll put in a plug for a great guide there, too. Marc Chauvin operates an excellent service. I took his lead climbing class and can't say enough good things about it. If you feel like you're in good shape without the guiding, check out his site anyway, there's great beta on classic routes such as Thin Air at http://www.chauvinguides.com/guidebook.htm
My recommendation: Cathedral and the Gunks. Hey, you've got all summer and fall to play with - you can have it all!
Enjoy, and let us know how it goes!
GO
PS - Also on his site is a great overview, with links to all the classics: http://www.chauvinguides.com/newsummer.htm
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