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punk
Mar 23, 2003, 5:21 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
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How good is the Wedge-Bolt (it will take a little time to upload even with DSL)for placing a rivets it seems that they are as strong as sleeve type bolt but allot easier to remove and stronger and more reliable then machine bolts
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danskiz
Mar 23, 2003, 5:57 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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I'm assuming your saying using these for rivets. You can't pound wedge-bolts in and I would doubt they would be very easy to turn in with a little wrench. It looks like placing one by hand would be tough.
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copperhead
Mar 23, 2003, 6:53 PM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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Punk, I was not able to view the pdf file and I know nothing about this type of bolt. My guess is that they are some sort of a self-tapping bolt for use in concrete or masonry. Because granite is much harder than concrete, I doubt that they would work properly. They might work in sandstone. I’ve never heard of or seen anyone use this type of bolt for climbing. Powers Wedge-Bolt: http://www.powers.com/Icon_Wedge-Bolt.jpg The ¼” x 1 1/2" buttonhead has been proven over decades, is strong, and is removeable. http://www.powers.com/Icon_Drive.jpg 3/8” shorty bolts should be used as rivets in soft sandstone.
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punk
Apr 3, 2003, 5:59 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
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According to Power, a ¼ inch “Wedge bolt,” embedded 1inch in 6000psi concrete has a 1650lb tension strength and 2440lb Shear strength (ultimate strength… to calculate working load the number should be divided by 4) The same bolt in the same base material embedded 1½ inches has the strength of 2480lb on tension and 2690lb in shear I was wondering if embedding the bolt in Granite would increase or decrease the strength of the placement The bolt calls for wedge SDS bit to use and 10lb torque force with ½ inch deeper then placement hole Also the principle of the bolt adherence is not expansion but rather embedding it self through the design of the threads (Carving it placement) Another major point is that it is vibrations resistant and 70% faster placement then regular bolt
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philbox
Moderator
Apr 3, 2003, 11:37 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2002
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There have been many discussions on placeing this type of bolt here in Oz. You may be aware that we have a long standing tradition of placeing carrots as fixed pro sans hanger. So this sort of bolt appeared to offer a great alternative to driving machine bolts into the rock. It was found that these bolts are crap when screwed in to variable strength rock. Very high strength rock doesn`t allow the bolt to cut a thread and low strength rock tends to allow the bolt to pull out under quite low loads. I`ll ask this question on the Chockstone bolting forum and get back to yas. I`m thinking that this is a scary bolt to consider useing and would suggest you don`t use it. ...Phil...
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