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superbum
Mar 22, 2003, 10:47 PM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 822
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Ok, I just finished reading "Climbing Anchors" and "More Climbing Anchors" by John Long. Does anyone else seem to think his material is a little out of date? Don't get me wrong, most of the material is timeless, well thought out, and safe as can be. But sometimes the advice seems, well, kinda sketchy. For instance he always seems to join carabiners together. I've heard this is a no-no. I know there is more, but I don't have the books in front of me right now...I will reply with more examples later.
On another note I have a question. He presents the Atomic Clip in "More Climbing Anchors." It is a bowline on a bite with two tie-in loops. It can be used to quickly and simply tie off and equalize a two-point anchor with the lead rope. Now, being relatively inexperianced, I find that the Rabbit Ears knot (a figure eight on a bite with two tie-in loops) provides the same function, is easier to tie and inspect, and is stronger. Agree/disagree?
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fishypete
Mar 24, 2003, 9:59 AM
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Registered: Apr 5, 2002
Posts: 200
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I found it interesting that the first book was almost against cordelettes - whereas the second (with an additional author) had a markedly different perspective.
It seems to me that John Long obviously had a system developed from many years of climbing that didn't use cordelettes, and that at first he wasn't convinced that they were necessary. It seems that the second edition of the book changed that, at least in part.
Just some thoughts,
Fishy.
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neomagi
Mar 25, 2003, 2:01 AM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2003
Posts: 202
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super, the argument for the bowline is that it is easier to untie after a strong load. there is a percentage of differance in strength, and once you know the knot, it is as easy to inspect as an 8.
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