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ozclimber
Mar 25, 2003, 4:22 AM
Post #1 of 6
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Registered: May 4, 2001
Posts: 40
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After hearing from many people that the smaller rp's such as 1 or 2's wont hold much more than body weight i decided i prove them all wrong. While putting up a new route at a local crag i was sad to find the only pro i could get in anywhere near the crux was a 2 rp. Without letting this put me off i soon found myself looking down at the tiny bit just below my feet. My next pro was a few metres below that and i was starting to pump. To cut the story short i fell, total expecting the rp to pop and for me to take flight to my next pro. But to me and my belayers surprise the rp held.
Just checking to see if anybody else out there has taken falls on rp's and the outcomes. I have also passed the head of many rps still in a crack with no wire whilst aid climbing. Mabee i was lucky or mabee rps are better pro than we give them credit for. Your thoughts please.
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potreroed
Mar 27, 2003, 11:29 PM
Post #2 of 6
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
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My longest leader fall ever (20feet) was onto a #2 RP. If it hadn't held I would have been talus food. What kept it in place was a directional placed low on the route. RP's rule.
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flamer
Mar 27, 2003, 11:45 PM
Post #3 of 6
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
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True sometimes tiny RP's do hold more than expected. There are a bunch of different factors that come into play; force, placement, rock type, LUCK!
I actually had a #0 HB offset break while I was bounce testing it! And I didn't even bounce very hard! Still I love RP's and HB's.
josh
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minnesotatrad
Mar 29, 2003, 4:59 PM
Post #4 of 6
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Registered: Aug 25, 2002
Posts: 81
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If I have to place one I just use a screamer with it.
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stonefiend
Apr 2, 2003, 2:27 AM
Post #5 of 6
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Registered: Mar 28, 2002
Posts: 88
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you all are hardmen.. i wish i were as cool as you.
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flagstaff_climber
Apr 2, 2003, 2:55 AM
Post #6 of 6
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 310
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I kinda figured out that RPs are some sort of passive pro, but which variety ?
Rick
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