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passthepitonspete
Mar 25, 2003, 6:04 PM
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In reply to: "The quest for El Cap's last remaining unclimbed cracks and seams continuted this past fall when Jacek Czyz ferreted out Quo Vadis (VI 5.9 A4). The 22-pitch route features 16 new pitches that weave through several routes on the southwest face. Czyz, who climbed the route solo, spent 30 days on the wall.
Last fall, I spent all my time on the Southeast Face, and this note is the first time I've heard of this new climb. Does anybody know anything more? Got any links? I sure don't have my ear to the ground, especially that I am now Curry-based rather than Lodge-based.
The only hits I could find were all in [to me indecipherable] Polish, which is a bit sad for a guy whose great-grandfather was born "Zaborowski".
I'd love to know more about the man and of his route, especially where the route goes. Anyone who has spent twice as long on an El Cap route as me is definitely of interest. [Do you suppose he might have run out of coffee by Day 30?]
Cheers,
Pete
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slab-dyno
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Mar 26, 2003, 12:48 AM
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30 days on the wall? Talk about a clusterf*ck!
Jimmy
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dirko
Mar 26, 2003, 1:28 AM
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:idea: Pete, a quick note: to most people, coffee is not a recreational drug.
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xkyczar
Mar 26, 2003, 3:25 PM
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Here is a super shakey online translation of one of the polish articles. The translator can be found at:
http://www.mezzofanti.org/translation/
(use the intertran section)
text:
Darkling ex 20 to 21 November 2002 r. Jacek Czyz zakonczyl przejscie sciany El Capitana on Yosemite nowa, wlasna as well extremely labour way hooky (VI, A4+, 5.9), led on glownym spietrzeniu column, left ex system Nosa, on vicinity "Muir Wall" as well "Dorn Direct", ex ktorymi has some wyciagow wspolnych. EX shave amount 22 wyciagow of dlugosci 60 m 16 droves calkiem unfamiliar terrain. Way stays designation "Quo Vadis". Difficultly A4/A4+ wystepuja to 4 dlugosciach lariats, crucial is not yell roadway (A4+) ex fragment okay. 10 m defeated to skyhookach and 5- underground balancing valce benche ex continuation on rysce ex rarpami as well copperheadami. To ulterior 13 or 14 wyciagach hooky has difficultly A3. Shave making Dear duration businesses 25 morrows, whereof 10 morrows vests to utter stage, zakonczony at top level. Extra duty two days tuck in reverts rally via cala sciane. To drodze pozostalo okay. 40 clinch - 30 to stations, uzyto tez okay. 40 rivetow. Is not this pierwsza Poland way to that najslawniejszej scale scianie swiata. Drive-in-bank Dear, Jacek Czyz, has 44 years, to stem Jaroslawia, whereabout yet by way of licealista penetrowal vicinal sows. Swarms sie at once. 1979. Is not trainer mountaineer, czlonkiem KW Rzeszotary. Has homelike lukewarm as well hibernating Dear on Tatrach, m.in. to Cubrynie ( some way to Crag Zwornikowej) as well scianie czolowej Mieguszowieckiego (" prelude"). Winter undergone drug-store Chroberz to Wolowej Crag, tzw. trunk to Rumanowym ( ex duzym variation prostujacym), drug-store Birkenmajera to Lomnicy. Panhandler on Alpaca on walk Chamonix, takze to Piz Badile (6 way). To Jam take the lead 6-wyciagowy wlasny variation (VI-). Thereof partnership on years 80. as well 90. were najczesciej Womb Diamonds, Tab Madejczyk, Wlodzimierz Wick, Ann Szymkowska, Tab Szczepanek as well Kazimierz Thrills. ON r. 1984 on Indiach on walk Leh entered to 6-tysiecznik, zas on 1986 on Garhwalu to Bhagirathi II (6512 m) as well Satopanth (7075 m). Is not drive-in-bank leader wspinaczkowego " scale czarnorzeckie" (1993; 114 bank). At once. 1995 flat on Chicago, ex this tez downtime swarms sie on Yosemite. At once. 1997 roadway until Overcharge regularly kazdej springtimes as well autumns, in each ex set sports. To El Capitanie undergone 14 way, and sciane downing 16 blows, ranks therein businesses 80 bivouacking. Solitarily making yes labour as well slawne Dear, wherebyprzez co "Reticent Wall" (A5) whether "Zanyatta Mondatta" (A4). ON Glogowie Malopolskim has synagogue Tentacle (17), ktory swarms sie on skalkach as well droves to tatrzanskich szostkach.
I said it was shakey.
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fishypete
Mar 26, 2003, 3:33 PM
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Hmmmm....are you sure shakey is strong enough???
I am not sure that can even be called a translator.
But there are some phunny bits in there! Hibernating...20 morrows....A3 hookey.....
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flamer
Mar 27, 2003, 5:50 AM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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:lol: Dude that's so funny!
I've always said there's a fine line between doing lots of acid and climbing lots of hard aid......either way it's Brain fry.
josh
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pbjosh
Mar 27, 2003, 6:02 AM
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From my limited polish I gather that the route was "way hooky," that the FA used new gear called a "glownym," and employed a new technique "underground balancing" grade 5- (!). Though 30 days were spent on the wall, at most 28 were climbing days as "two days tuck in reverts" were chocked up to "Extra duty." In training the FA spent a winter in a drugstore with a hibernating dear and hitchhiked either on or with an Alpaca to Piz Badil 6 times!
Hope that gives you a good start Pete!
josh, just trying to help out.
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cantwinifyoudontplay2003
Mar 27, 2003, 9:23 AM
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Registered: Feb 24, 2003
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Can you haul 30 tall cans of old E ? WE CAN RUN OUT OF COFFEE BUT NEVER>>>>>>>>NEVER BEER.......!
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xkyczar
Mar 27, 2003, 8:14 PM
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This is the link to the pre-translated text:
http://nyka.home.pl/glos_sen/pl/200211.htm
and this link also describes the FA:
http://www.wspinanie.pl/serwis/200211/26jacek.php
Of course both are in Polish.
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