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Building Multi-directional Belays.
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supertopoz


Mar 30, 2003, 7:59 PM
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I have not noticed this in you advise pages Dr Piton.

Is that it is too difficult to cover or am I missing something.
Thanks for the slippery knot, it works a treat.

I know that many bolts are often multi load bearing, can I use a total downward pulling belay and use my pig for curbing up ward pulling forces.

I know that I can use gear to prvent other gear from pulling out, for example and inverted nut to prevent the rotation of a cam.
What would class as a bomber belay, other than BOLTS.

As a BWT I noticed that Florine recomends running it out to the end of the rope when you are soloing, I want to be a soloist but, I need some more pointers in rapid preperation of a belay that does not envolve bolts. I can and have made such things in the past I just need to know if I am doing it THE BETTER WAY.

your a mentor to us all Pete Keep up the good work, and many of can keep our wank factor down a little. :oops:


copperhead


Apr 1, 2003, 8:46 AM
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Yeah. I'm interested too. How does it all work?


cantwinifyoudontplay2003


Apr 2, 2003, 1:48 AM
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Pete and I will have to yell down the instructions to you (after we pass you in your sleep) CLIMB IN STYLE OR FLY A MILE !!!!! copperhead !
By the way what does a "good" head smell like after you place it ?


kungfuclimber


Apr 2, 2003, 10:36 AM
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It smells like.. victory.


climbhigher


Apr 2, 2003, 11:31 AM
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How do you set up an anchor???? I kind of forgot how to do that the last time I climbed a wall??? There's gotta be a million different ways in a million different situations. Just remember an anchor can always be improved even if it's bomber. And there's alot of give and takes with different varitions when building a bomber anchor. What would will do without Bolts???? (That is sarcasm!!!) Would you trust 10 rurps in a row tied off with clove hitchs??? CHEERS, Chris.


copperhead


Apr 2, 2003, 1:03 PM
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cantwinifyoudontplay2003,

Style? Your point?

Somehow, I don't think I'll ever have to worry about being passed by Pete.

As far as how heads smell, you would know if you've ever placed one.

See you at The Deli.


passthepitonspete


Apr 2, 2003, 1:29 PM
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Unnecessary unkind comment deleted


iamthewallress


Apr 2, 2003, 5:20 PM
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Hans' advice to run it out to the end of the rope (ignoring the standard belays) usually assumes no hauling and his mantra, no bivies. Chances are, it also assumes the Nose or at least a climb where the end of the rope isn't going to be C3+ brassies and copperheads. If you're up there for the long-hual anyway, there is an efficiency in using bolted belays, decent stances, or nicely spread out natural features when they exist IMO. Hans' tricks are great for Hans and people who play in that realm, but for ambitious gumbies like myself, somethimes they cause greif too.


copperhead


Apr 2, 2003, 11:51 PM
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Darn, Pete. Did I miss a good one?

http://www.gamers-forums.com/.../contrib/ed/wink.gif


apollodorus


Apr 2, 2003, 11:57 PM
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HA! PTPP has shown he's a great human being! He said right there he wanted to be a total dickhead, but pulled back.

All that Detractor Schnitt about him would tear any mortal to pieces, and lead to his wanting to vent anger.

But, he didn't.

See? He's the best.


copperhead


Apr 3, 2003, 12:00 AM
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Wow Apollo. I didn't know you had such deep feelings for the Doctor.


cantwinifyoudontplay2003


Apr 3, 2003, 12:54 AM
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If you pass a wanker that is off route, lost in space shall we say ? Does that still count as a pass? And another thing do you just lead up and say.......( I am faster and such so just hold back while I pass) or is it more like the sneak pass where you wait until they are stoned and waisted on Old E and do the silent thing and they come to going "hey what the F"


apollodorus


Apr 3, 2003, 1:31 AM
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Copperhead: anybody who would take ME up Excalibur and Scorched Earth after my 20- years on the couch has my vote for a good guy. After two walls with him, my esteem thereto has only increased. I have a great affection for the Good Wall Doctor: the greatest Wall Doctor, the sort who can flake/bake/cake for days at a time, but fire off hard pitches fast when he needs to.

After all, he was the one who said we need to do a "day off" on El Cap Spire, which inspired me to want to bring up the BBQ.


coyoteblues


Apr 3, 2003, 8:41 AM
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In reply to:
HA! PTPP has shown he's a great human being! He said right there he wanted to be a total dickhead, but pulled back.
Well I saw it, so it didn't get pulled back that soon. So I guess you have ot say he was a dickhead but then changed his mind later.
In reply to:
All that Detractor Schnitt about him would tear any mortal to pieces, and lead to his wanting to vent anger.
I didn't know he was mortal! Maybe it's no big deal for someone of his exulted status.
In reply to:
But, he didn't.
Yes he did.
In reply to:
See? He's the best.
At what? Your gonna need to be more specific.

All this supporting and detracting is just one pile of crap being loaded on anohter. Kinda makes ya wanna http://smilies.crowd9.com/cwm/3dlil/puke.gif


alpinelynx


Apr 3, 2003, 10:45 AM
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coyote man, but its funny as hell.


coyoteblues


Apr 4, 2003, 7:44 AM
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OK lynx, ya got me on that one. It IS kinda funny. To tell the truth the detracting can be funny because its mostly aimed at someone who it very deserving. But most of the supporting is just so nauseating ya wanna hurl!


fishypete


Apr 4, 2003, 8:09 AM
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You will get no argument from me that the good Dr. has done many of us especially me!) an amazing service with all his info, and helped me a huge amount.

I would never have made it to several great places, and would have missed many great experiences without his help.

But when I see stuff like this....

In reply to:
See? He's the best.

I gotta side with Coyote, that is almost to the puke stage.

I am getting visions of a 14 year old groupie flashing through my mind...


fishypete


Apr 7, 2003, 1:35 AM
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After a little hint and a bit of further reflection - it appears I got trolled!

That was one damn juicy piece of bait - how could a little fish like me resist??

Score one for Tom!

Cheers

Fishy.


copperhead


Apr 7, 2003, 10:49 AM
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Back to the original subjectů

Here is a simple, dynamic belay set-up for soloing:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=12636

To read more, click below:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=12636

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=12635

Here is a little trick for an upward pull on a bolt:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=12638 http://supertopo.com/...blostbroth_law11.jpg


passthepitonspete


Apr 7, 2003, 12:50 PM
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In reply to:
I know that many bolts are often multi load bearing, can I use a total downward pulling belay and use my pig for curbing upward pulling forces.

First of all, I'm assuming you're soloing. You're not clear in your question.

But assuming you are, then yes - the Better Way is to use your pig as your "belayer". It actually provides some dynamicism into your belay system. For further dynamicism, you could add a screamer, though it might not deploy so far back in the system.

The hard part is when you DON'T have a pig, like if you are solo fixing pitches above your bivi, or you are just out cragging. Then you have to construct a belay to take an upward pull, which is MUCH easier said than done. Put in a piece of two that take a downward pull, then put in your upside-down pieces, and try to equalize everything without the inverted pieces falling out.

In fact, so tricky and difficult is it, that on those rare occasions when I go out and "practise" [which I haven't done for years] I bring my pig and fill it with rocks, and use it as my belayer.

Then I build a belay station partway up the cliff and practise hauling the rocks. The top of your fixed ropes is not the place to find out that you don't know how to operate your 2:1 Hauling Ratchet! Get it sussed beforehand. It is NOT as easy as you might think. Far from it.


iamthewallress


Apr 7, 2003, 12:59 PM
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Off topic again...but is that a sign above your ledge?


alpinelynx


Apr 7, 2003, 10:21 PM
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I think its probably instructions on how to build a multi-directional anchor in the event he drank too many OEs.


fishypete


Apr 8, 2003, 1:00 AM
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Yeah, I have seen this pic before and also wondered about what appears to be a sign taped to the rock....


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