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Trad Shoes for us girls
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jay_climbingchick


Apr 2, 2003, 9:54 AM
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Trad Shoes for us girls
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I was wondering what kinds of shoes do you girls climb in for trad? I am looking for a pair. Can you help me? :?


jumpingrock


Apr 2, 2003, 5:18 PM
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You climb in different shoes to trad climb? Wouldn't it basically be a comfortable pair of shoes that you can wear for long periods as opposed to shoes for sport which you can take off quickly after you are done climbing?


lilycactus


Apr 4, 2003, 7:13 AM
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Shoes make a huge difference in enjoying a route and painfully enjoying the route- might as well have everything on your side...Mythos are great- and I'm discovering that the mocs are great- easy to take off and on, and their great for smearing, and smaller craks.


rock_diva


Apr 4, 2003, 12:27 PM
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I use different shoes to trad climb -- toe jamming cracks can be awful in the wrong shoes! Also, if I'm going to be on a multi-pitch for several hours I want a really comfortable pair of shoes (i.e. not my bouldering shoes).

I used to wear La Sportiva Mythos and love them, but I'm boycotting La Sportiva because of their business practices. My choice for trad routes in now Phoenix, by Mad Rock. Half the price, just as nice, IMO.


aimeerose


Apr 4, 2003, 12:59 PM
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I like Mythos, half a size bigger than my sport shoes. I just saw on sportiva's web site that they make a women's mythos now. That might be good too. I haven't heard anything about their business practices. I've always has good experiences with them.


dar-la-la
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Apr 9, 2003, 11:45 AM
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I really like the scarpa inferno's. They seem to work for me. I have really small and narrow feet. I find them as a all around good pair of shoes.


moabbeth


Apr 9, 2003, 8:30 PM
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I'm with the consensus on La Sportiva Mythos too. They rule. They're good for sandstone, granite, all sorts of surfaces. I have a pair of the Mad Rock Phoenix but they don't do as well across all kinds of rock like the Mythos do. I don't use them for the more challenging stuff.

Plus, a big thing you should consider is how long the routes are that you're gonna be climbing on. If you want to do longer/multipitch routes you're going to want to be in something comfortable for longer stretches of time. And Anasazi's and Moccasyms - while great for a challenging one pitch crack - may start hurting your feet anything past that. If you're gonna be on a route all day, Mythos are super comfy.

As far as the La Sportiva quesitonable business practices, what kind of stuff do they do? I know North Face got flack for letting a pregnant Lynn Hill go as a sponsored climber but haven't heard much about La Sportiva. They make quality stuff is all I know. I have their Nepal Extremes as my mountaineering boots and they're the bomb!! I love them.


just_me


Apr 16, 2003, 9:13 PM
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I have also had good luck with the LaSportiva Mythos. They are a great all around trad shoe, and I love them in cracks.

My second favorite pair of trad shoes are my Newton's. They are on their second resole. They ended up stretching a bit more than I wanted, so they are the shoe of choice when it is cold because I can wear thin socks underneath them.


alpinelynx


Apr 17, 2003, 12:22 AM
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another mythos fan here. I also have the womens mythos as well, same size as the purple (39.5) and they fit perfect! I like that the ankle is contoured lower as to not rub (I got blisters breaking in the purple). I don't like that the toe doesn't have as much rubber coverage for thin cracks. I have the 5.10 anasazi velcro shoes but the pain of a foot jam nearly killed me! I save those for the steeps and bouldering since they are very tight and the rubber really bites the rock.


enigma


Apr 18, 2003, 12:23 AM
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In reply to:
another mythos fan here. I also have the womens mythos as well, same size as the purple (39.5) and they fit perfect! I like that the ankle is contoured lower as to not rub (I got blisters breaking in the purple). I don't like that the toe doesn't have as much rubber coverage for thin cracks. I have the 5.10 anasazi velcro shoes but the pain of a foot jam nearly killed me! I save those for the steeps and bouldering since they are very tight and the rubber really bites the rock.

I also have mythos, but I also like 5.10 black diamond ,unfortunately they are not being made anymore :( . Recently I am trying to break in a pair of Red Chiles I got about 1yr ago, which have a harder sole, anyone familiar with these ?? the saulsito ones?? :roll:


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