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Metolius or Black Diamond
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simzboardr


Apr 3, 2003, 11:20 AM
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Registered: May 8, 2002
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Metolius or Black Diamond
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For those of you who have the metolius bombshelter...does the spreader bar work that well. Black Diamond dudes, hows your ledge doing, if you have a double does it hour glass at all.

What should i get , bombshelter or BD, for the double ledge atleast


bandycoot


Apr 3, 2003, 11:30 AM
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I've got the double bombshelter. I've used it only three times. Once playing in the gym I volunteer at, once sleeping the night at a crag where I practiced hauling multipitch and setting the thing up at night from a hanging belay then slept on it. I also tried to climb half dome and brought it since it was my first wall and had ZERO experience. Good thing too, we started late in the afternoon and the heat killed us. We stayed the night 400-500 feet up on the ledge and rapped in the morning. I must say that sleeping in a portaledge is AWESOME!!! I have no complaints about the metolius, and have been told that it's one of the best from my way more experienced friend.

Josh


grippedclimber


Apr 3, 2003, 11:32 AM
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I have the BD. It sets up easy, is small, and sags. It is bomber and so is the fly. The A5 ledge is the best double ledge. The fly on the A5 beats all others by far. If you are going to spend that much coin then just go for the A5 if not by the fish double, for the price it is really good.


pbjosh


Apr 3, 2003, 11:38 AM
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I have the double bomb shelter - it's a nice ledge. It sags very little and sets up pretty quickly. I've not had any experience with the Fly, but the ledge is excellent I'd say.

josh


iliketobeoutside


Apr 3, 2003, 11:54 AM
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Registered: Feb 20, 2003
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I don't know much about big wall climbing but i know climbing mag had a review of a couple of ledges. Check it out http://www.climbing.com/Pages/equipment/equipment-208.html


-Jamie


epic_ed


Apr 3, 2003, 1:45 PM
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I have the BD double and I'm not impressed. I've only set it up a few times, and I haven't done a wall with it yet, but it sags significantly. Probably more disappointing is the quality of worksmanship. The bed fabric seems alittle light weight; the tension staps are only attached to the frame of the ledge via an overhand knot pushed through a hole in the tubing of the frame at each corner. It looks it would be easy wear through the webbing or pull a knot through the tube.

On the positive side, it is very easy to set up and the fly is bomber (but has no door).

I've stated before, if this is the industry standard I'm certain I could build a better ledge. My roommate has a Fish ledge and it takes more time to set up, but the materials are much more bomber. For my money, I'd rather have a Double Whammy. Or if money isn't a factor, the new A5 Cliff Cabana (redesigned this year) is bad ass. It's the largest double on the market and has a very nice fly with a door like a regular tent.

Ed


peas


Apr 3, 2003, 1:51 PM
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I have a BD double and don't have any major complaints. I don't find that it hourglasses or sags too much. The fold out setup is a little awkard at times at hanging belays. I've never used a different type of ledge, so I don't really have anything to compare with. I like the idea of how the A5 and fish ledges set up, and I've heard that they are better than the BD ledges. I'll hopefully be borrowing an A5 type single ledge off of a friend this summer so that I can compare.


simzboardr


Apr 3, 2003, 4:06 PM
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sweet, thanks for the input.


simzboardr


Apr 3, 2003, 4:14 PM
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After reading the tests and the info form you guys... im probably gonna get the double bombshelter. Sounds like a pretty stiff comfy ledge


climbhigher


Apr 3, 2003, 6:14 PM
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The A5 ledge and the fish ledge are proven designs. They are both bomber. The metoluis ledge,I heard, has some problems.. something that breaks on them. I can't think exactly what it was. I have a very old school A5 ledge single (1st generation) with copper elbow corners not the square machine corners. But it's bomber and sets up very quickly. It does sag. But the new ones have the belts tensioning system on the beding. Cheers, chris.


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