|
calpolyclimber
Apr 3, 2003, 11:59 PM
Post #1 of 10
(1610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 360
|
Do any of you run the lead rope through a screamer attached to the power point of your anchor to help protect the anchor against the shock of a factor 2 fall? I was just thinking this would be a relatively inexpensive addition that sounds very helpful to me. I suppose for redundancy you could back it up with a loose runner as well. It would just always be there just in case, and if you have to catch a factor two, you would just buy another one (about $12 for the Yates version I had in mind). I deffinately plan to do this, but before I do I was wondering if any of you can see any problem with doing this? Thanks in advance.
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Apr 4, 2003, 12:05 AM
Post #2 of 10
(1610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
How much have you lead? Do you take factor 2 falls often? Less is more, make a good anchor in the first place so you don't need the screamer!
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
calpolyclimber
Apr 4, 2003, 12:10 AM
Post #3 of 10
(1610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 360
|
I have lead quite a bit, and have never taken a factor 2... In fact I just got back from 5 days in J Tree with not one top rope or bolt clip (alright, I did use the bolt anchors on Bird on a Wire (Lost Horse Wall) and Ball Bearing (Sentinel Rock)). Holy crap! I love Joshua Tree :) I do build solid anchors, but what's wrong with adding 54 grams to your rack for even more safety?
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Apr 4, 2003, 12:22 AM
Post #4 of 10
(1610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
Screamers on the belay anchors are a good idea for A6 pitches.
|
|
|
|
|
simzboardr
Apr 4, 2003, 12:22 AM
Post #5 of 10
(1610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 232
|
yea i don't see whats wrong with it... i wouldn't waiste your time on it unless your climbing like an R or soemthign where falls like that could happen easily
|
|
|
|
|
jbrd528
Apr 4, 2003, 12:38 AM
Post #6 of 10
(1610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 108
|
The only way a screamer would work in the anchor is if the belayer is attached to the master point with a screamer. If you attach the screamer to one point of your anchor and use it as the "first" piece, buy the time the screamer has ripped to its full length, it will most likely be bollow the waist of the belayer. It would work if the belayer is extened atleast 4 or so feet from the master point.
If you do use a screamer to attach your belayer to the master point, there is al factor that you must consider. If the screamer activates and the leader becomes injured (assuming that it is a factor 2 fall and the leader is below the belayer) it might be hard for the belayer to escape the belay because they are now several extra feet away from the master point. But if you have practiced belay escapes this should not be that big of a problem.
I personally wouldn't use a screamer at the anchor. I would just make sure that the leader sets a very solid piece early in the pitch and possilby attach a screamer to this if you want to.
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Apr 4, 2003, 12:41 AM
Post #7 of 10
(1610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
Now that you mention Bird on a Wire, I think that you may be on to something... :D I remember the crux being unprotected right after leaving that bolted belay! I personally wouldn't worry the need for a screamer, but hey, it's just one more layer of protection. I guess that's a pretty creative solution to making ones-self feel safer about taking factor 2s...
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
mesomorf
Apr 4, 2003, 1:18 AM
Post #8 of 10
(1610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2002
Posts: 397
|
If your anchor is two sorry old quarter-inch bolts and the next sorry quarter incher is 40 feet of 5.9 away, you would do well to place a Screamer at the belay and clip it. I wouldn't bother with it as an everyday practice.
|
|
|
|
|
calpolyclimber
Apr 4, 2003, 1:23 AM
Post #9 of 10
(1610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 360
|
Haha, Bird on a Wire was indeed what got me thinking about this. The crack above the anchor is very flaring. VERY fun to climb, but the pro just isn't happening for about 15+ feet.
|
|
|
|
|
brutusofwyde
Apr 4, 2003, 4:57 PM
Post #10 of 10
(1610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
|
I occasionally attach a screamer to either the power point or the highest belay anchor, if the climbing is difficult right off the anchor and/or there is a long ways to the next pro opportunity.
Otherwise, pro goes in early unless on VERY easy ground, and first piece gets a screamer.
Brutus
|
|
|
|
|
|
